Yellow Peril

Paul,

I am glad to see my bodywork found a good home.

Keep up the good work, Fast Larry

loving the look Paul keep up the excellent work

fast21151 said:

Paul, I am glad to see my bodywork found a good home.

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You know, it's too easy for me to forget where all this stuff comes from. Thanx again for a very fair deal.

I'm liking it real well; even CONSIDERING swapping my Black Dunstall stuff on my Combat for this stuff. It all depends on what the eventual buyer decides on bodywork from the 3 choices I have.

grandpaul said:

It's not just the root tubes of the brackets that interfere with teh fork tubes, but the fork cap nuts collide with the meters.

Significant damage waiting to happen in a minor parking lot bump, and I have original green blobs!

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I was wondering if you change the bump stops or just stop turning when it hits something.

Got the bike running on the third kick today.

I need a shifter (on the way), need to install the chain (on the shelf), finish up the headlight socket (need an old style bulb), and then source a small
tail light, fabricate a hidden backet for it, and install the kit. After that, it's just very minor stuff like wiring in the brake light switches and detailing.

I definitely want to fabricate a different fairing mount, this bike is a huge hassle to maneuver around the shop and driveway with the HUGE
turning radius at slow speed.

Not much different from the last shots, but IT'S A RUNNER!

How is a different mount going to help? Won't the bars hit the fairing then?

No, clip-ons sit differently and have a different angle.

grandpaul said:

No, clip-ons sit differently and have a different angle.

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Ah, you're saying that the clubmans allow less turning radius than the clip ons.

You mentioned a different fairing mount and I thought that's what would give you more turning radius.

It's a complicated puzzle.

The current (PR) fairing mount severely limits steering range. The dual-arm design means there is less available space for fork tubes than with a single arm (Dunstall style). Also, the meter mount is too far back, causing the meters to be in the path of the fork tops.

The fairing cutout has limited space available for range of motion of the controls, especially disc brake master cylinder. Clip-ons are best suited with the angles available.

Of you could find a way to make a bracket that doesn't mess up the turning radius I would buy one in a heart beat.

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I used Mick Hemmings bracket which is a different design and has a 5/8" dia straight tube coming off the head tube clamp and welded to a semi circle of strip steel wrapping around the headlight. That straight tube gives more lock compared with the original two tube type. There are still issues with long clock studs fouling brake reservoir cap since I have the Veglias (MH only made a few for these instruments) but his normal bracket is designed for the Smiths guages with studs at 12 and 6 o'clock. Only issue with the straight single tube design is that the weight of the headlight led to fracture of the tube after 600 miles. I had to triangulate mine and it's been fine for 4 years and 12k miles.