Yellow Peril

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grandpaul

grandpaul

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...is getting perilously close to running!

Yellow Peril


Yellow Peril


Basically just need to install oil & fuel lines, primary drain plug and petcocks, top off all the lubricants, and I can test-fire it and set timing.

Full build thread is here- commando-have-your-way-t8427.html
 
Can you post detailed pictures of the side fairing mounts? Measurements and angles would be great.

Mine got "lost" although they may still show up.
 
I'll get pix of my home-made brackets in the morning.

Simple straight Z-shaped 3/4" mild steel flat stock (thin, like 1/8" or less) from a nearby hardware store.

Bolted to tank front mount studs under the mounting bracket on the frame, and right to the bottom of the lowers.
 
Looks pretty damn good in my opinion.
May I ask - what did you use for the headstock/fairing mount GP?
I've been thinking of making something a bit more sophisticated than I've got.
 
grandpaul said:
I'll get pix of my home-made brackets in the morning.

Simple straight Z-shaped 3/4" mild steel flat stock (thin, like 1/8" or less) from a nearby hardware store.

Bolted to tank front mount studs under the mounting bracket on the frame, and right to the bottom of the lowers.
Click to expand...

I thought of something along those lines, but since you did all the work. :)
 
That's a beauty, but tell me how do you not burn your legs on those high pipes/mufflers?
 
davamb said:
- what did you use for the headstock/fairing mount GP?
Click to expand...

Production racer replica unit, it clamps around the headstock and also mounts the meters.
 
gtsun said:
... how do you not burn your legs on those high pipes/mufflers?
Click to expand...

Heat shields. Clamp-on aftermarket variety.

I personally dislike heat wrap, but lots of folks use that. In fact, these pipes were wrapped in it, that's why they are so discolored.
 
davamb said:
Ah ok, one of these (upper unit):
Yellow Peril
Click to expand...

No, it's shaped differently and has a platform for the "dashboard" of the fairing that angles down and has cut-outs and holes for the meters.

I'll get a photo tomorrow.
 
My original design brkts continue to fracture on the outer clamp tube just below the 1" wide steel strip where it is welded to the clamp. Every year i have to remake the clamp tubes, cut off the strip steel and small bolt clamp tubes and reweld the lot. It's becoming a pain and your idea looks like it could be a better way. last repair I extended the clamp tubes so there is more surface area fixed to the frame down tubes and they are holding up but if I ever ride again (another story) I can see them going. The problem is that the fairing side panels flap around so much at some engine speeds there is huge repeated bending stresses on the brackets.
 
Thanks GrandPaul, think it might be this one (again from Clubman):
Yellow Peril

My interest is because the home-made bracket for my Dunstall doesn't have any support on the "dash", only two points beside the headlight, under the headlight and the two side points next to the tank. The dash could really do with some support to take out some of the flex there.
 
Those clamp-on lowers are better than my el-cheap-o design, for sure.

main unit looks almost identical.
 
I have a 70's era prody style fairing and they look so cool I really want to use it but I'm afraid of the lost turning radius they say it causes. Being a 850 frame it's allready not the most agile at slow speed tight turns but I guess I'll just have to mount it & try.
 
WAY reduced turning radius.

I'm contemplating building my own bracket, I have more than enough stuff to work with including a spare Dunstall bracket.
 
Of you could find a way to make a bracket that doesn't mess up the turning radius I would buy one in a heart beat.
 
It's not just the root tubes of the brackets that interfere with teh fork tubes, but the fork cap nuts collide with the meters.

Significant damage waiting to happen in a minor parking lot bump, and I have original green blobs!
 
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