Why single phase to 3 phase.

Can anybody give the reasons for converting the stator from single phase to 3 phase, in basic language please.
Thanks for your replies.

Well I can't explain the physics of it but typically three phase systems will provide greater charging system output. Therefore letting you run more or more powerful lights, heated gloves, heated vests, etc.

GB

Ta, I thought that would be the case, would it be easier just to put in a higher rated stator, as in the land of " global warming" heated underwear is not required.
Again thanks.

Well I can explain it somewhat. A single phase stator is basically one coil of wire, spin a magnet in it (rotor) and when the North pole of the magnet passes by it induces current flow in one direction then as the South pole of the magnet passes by it induces current in the other direction. Hook the two leads to a four diode rectifier and you get a DC (direct current) output.

A three phase stator is basically three separate coils, spin a magnet in it (rotor) and you get three pulses in one direction and three pulses in the other. Hook the three leads to a six diode rectifier and you get a DC (direct current) output...that is hopefully greater than the single phase system you replaced.

GB

As of yet I haven't changed the alternator, am just doing some research, for when I change the sprag gears and sprockets if required. You know how it can happen one thing leads to another, ad infinitum.

Without getting into details on theory, you can google all that till you are blue in the face.

I believe the real world advantage is that 3 phase is effecient, delivering a good clean charge at lower rpm's.

Remember, nothing is better for the electrical system than good terminations.

Our cycles can require up to 90 watt to fully run everything on high at once. A single phase may not produce this till in upper 2000 rpm range so though bike may run and light battery may get so low that slowing up and puting on brake light at low rpm stalls it, then must try to start on a flat battery resistance to spark again. With 3 phase and more maxium wattage say 180-200 range then they can supply 90 watts somewhat below 2000 rpm so safter to creep around with lights and brake on at low-ish rpm. Then once moving again it reflills battery quicker it had to be drawn on say at a light in still air ya don't want to hold rpms over 16-1800. A Spark allowedPeel to run extra lights around 17-1900 rpm with just a 1.2 ah shirt pocket size alarm battery for a few years in all sorts of conditions. Only caught me out in rainy traffic jam in big city with broken axle would stall if I let idle too slow after a while and a bugger to kick off in cold rain, but did to get back at it.

With decent size battery my factory Trixie runs on high beam only and never let me down till battery ages out after 5y+.

Thanks Fellow Travellers
This is the information I was after, as I will be doing some work In the Primary Case, I may as well do all OF IT.
Again Thanks.

All of it, hm
replace the front tiny bolts with loctited studs ya get a hardware stores to siiffle leaks with inner cover off and holds in place to re-afix. May have to back up the cover groove to get new tube seal proud enough to seal, maybe not though. Check the shims on the center mount bolt so no fouling on clutch back side nor bind when nipped down good. Reccomend not to ever use the level plug as damages it to get tight enough and then on/off and again and is more than useless its bad to impossible practice to use it to set lube level and way too hi so will soon throw it out and clog clutch to its nature level, just touching chain slack 1/2 way or less on links. Try to center rotor evenly but may have to burr out the tough lamenet holes. Definitely blue loctite the stator mount nuts after geting your spacers/shim right to center rotor for best flux feild. Do not over tighten the clutch nut as folds over the back side circlip, thought a more robust one it available.
I like ATF in there as great for chain, allows leak evidence ID easier and less bother to clutch plates, expescially if Ford Type F is used. I use Al plate square and retangle to block teeth inside and out on clutch to nip up crank nut and clutch nuts. Double check ya get tranny adjuster lock nut decently locked may a spot of locktite.

Sprag gears means its a MK3, so ATF and the rest does not apply.

Thanks for the clarification on the ATF as correct 75 , 850 ES, mainly just the primary internals, at this time.
Peter

If you use ATF then your auto chain tensioner stops working, I have a 3 phase alternator and the biggest advantage is the charging at low revs. I fitted it when I used to commute in a city and the revs achieved meant I was charging the battery every night, with the 3 phase this was not required.

Look at the 3 phase waveforms here:

https://www.google.com/search?q=3+phase ... 24&bih=676

With single phase, the waveform goes to positive passes zero then goes to negative. As you go towards zero either from positive or negative in converting to DC, the area near the neutral doesn't give as much power potential as it's converted to DC. With the 3 phase signals 120 degrees apart, you have less average time in the zero range; essentially without revolving faster, you generate more power pulses so you're getting more power out of the same form factor at a lower speed and the ultimate power is greater.

So just to confirm: the OEM 75 ES has a single phase alt?
Jaydee

So just to confirm: the OEM 75 ES has a single phase alt?

Click to expand...

Yes but hi output with 2 matched Zeners to cope with the higher output, but a 3 phase will still beat it at low revs.

geo46er said:

Well I can't explain the physics of it but typically three phase systems will provide greater charging system output. Therefore letting you run more or more powerful lights, heated gloves, heated vests, etc.

GB

Click to expand...

Speak for yourself, it’s bloody freezing here in winter in the UK :!:

For goodness sake, loose the zener and old regulator for a matching 3 phase Podtronics unit. If you do this, then it makes little sense to keep the warning light assimilator. You will relieve the system of about 15 feet of wire and a dozen or so fault prone connection.

While you are at it, get rid of the stock flasher for this one.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0325413903

Keep it simple, keep it clean, keep it running.

pete.v said:

For goodness sake, loose the zener and old regulator for a matching 3 phase Podtronics unit. If you do this, then it makes little sense to keep the warning light assimilator. You will relieve the system of about 15 feet of wire and a dozen or so fault prone connection.

While you are at it, get rid of the stock flasher for this one.
http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/Catal ... 0325413903

Keep it simple, keep it clean, keep it running.

Click to expand...

Is Podtronics the unit of choice guys? The Boyer power box has a good reputation I thought. Plus they do one with a dedicated output wire to feed a charging light, thus negating the assimilator.
I'll be fitting a Tri spark (unit self contained in points housing) a control unit (Boyer or other, to be decided) and dual outlet coil. With no inductors, and all the other detritus removed, I'm aiming for the simplest loom ever!
FE.

Fast Eddie said:

Is Podtronics the unit of choice guys?

Click to expand...

Yes, I believe so. They seem to be consistent, easy to get and priced right.
I think the key is, if you take care of it (logical placement, Air) it will take care of you.