74ok
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Shop our Carburettor for a Norton Commando 750cc 1970 - Supersede | AMAL Carburetters
Carburettor for a Norton Commando 750cc 1970 - Superseded to 930/46PREM
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A thread you may find helpful:Next up is this rear wheel. The project was finally delivered today. Looks like I’m missing a lot of components for this rear hub.
However, that's for the cush rear hub and disc front wheel, the 1970 type in the pictures is the bolt-up rear hub.Sorry,I don't know how to provide a direct link.
bolt up 68-70 (vs cush hub 71-74)1970 type in the pictures is the bolt-up rear hub.
The manual isn't too bad with instruction but I do like more pictures.
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The victim.
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Although I started with the rear for this I'll start with the front. Remove the lockring. Mine was really tight. So I applied some heat which did the trick. I had to use a punch but it didn't take much to loosen.
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Remove the spacer and felt seal.
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The single row bearing.
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With a long punch you can pop out the bearing.
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A lovely bearing spacer. Luckily it was just yucky.
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And out comes the other bearing. The hub was...
- swooshdave
- Replies: 34
- Forum: Norton Commando Forum
Hi,
im obviously missing something
What is the reason of changing to a one piece axle. Is there a significant problem with the two piece axle.
alan
Excellent start. You got the correct yokes for that frame and properly navigated the front brake upgrade parts. You will need a hydralic master cylinder at some point to work the disc. I don't like the original stock master cylinder that has a screw on top... It leaked a few times over the years and ruined the paint job on my fuel tank every time. Eventually I got disgusted, sold the original to someone here who needed one and I bought the replacement brake lever from "Madass140" who lives and manufactures parts in the phillipines. It's got a better hydraulic ratio on the lever so the brake lever is more powerful. I use the "1/2 inch master cylinder kit" which is half way down this page... He also makes a full kit with a disc and a improved caliper if you are up for spending money on "jewelry" as well as just what you need to get on the road.Alrighty - first step is to get this motor apart to see if it is salvageable. So far I've aquired some correct year yokes, later style forks and sliders with a norton caliper, a used complete rear hub.
In preparation for disassembly I think it would be a good idea to get a set of whitworth sockets and spanners as well as any special tools needed.
How do I purchase some of this stuff? There was any an option in the websiteExcellent start. You got the correct yokes for that frame and properly navigated the front brake upgrade parts. You will need a hydralic master cylinder at some point to work the disc. I don't like the original stock master cylinder that has a screw on top... It leaked a few times over the years and ruined the paint job on my fuel tank every time. Eventually I got disgusted, sold the original to someone here who needed one and I bought the replacement brake lever from "Madass140" who lives and manufactures parts in the phillipines. It's got a better hydraulic ratio on the lever so the brake lever is more powerful. I use the "1/2 inch master cylinder kit" which is half way down this page... He also makes a full kit with a disc and a improved caliper if you are up for spending money on "jewelry" as well as just what you need to get on the road.
Madass, (Don) also makes some really nice stuff which is more expensive than his brake MC Kit, which is a bargin at $150. He makes an aftermarket rear wheel that looks just like the stock wheel, but has modern cush rubber damped sprocket and a one piece "through" axle to replace the stock norton rear axle set up which had been known to occasionally break... The rear sets he makes are copies of the dunstall style ones. I have a set on my bike and they are solidly made and not cheapo looking... Anyway, look around his site...
He does it through email contact on his home page.How do I purchase some of this stuff? There was any an option in the website
The project came with a centrally mounted oil tank. I hear there is a hard to find side cover with a rotolock hole. Is that the kind I need?
Or will these aluminum covers fit?
Regardless of authenticity you don’t want the early stand . There is a reason they changed it - they fail. Ask me how I know…The early stand was different (see below) and the eye dimension was also different the latest version 06.3051 early stand now has the extended plates.
https://postimages.org/
I’m learning. Technically my frame number is a 1970 fastback. All pictures of a 1970 fastback point to having the more square looking covers.They're for the early Fastback.
Those are for the Interstate.
The central oil tank models ('S' type and 1970 Roadster) had a RH access panel and fixed LH panel.
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Andover Norton Parts Drawings - Andover Norton Factory Parts - Commando Parts
Andover Norton Parts are the only Norton spare parts in the market manufactured to original drawings, within the factory-approved tolerances, from the correct materials, and with the correct finish.andover-norton.co.uk
https://postimages.org/
Nope . Different cats here .I’m learning. Technically my frame number is a 1970 fastback. All pictures of a 1979 fastback point to having the more square looking covers.
Are the roadster and fastback considered the same thing?
No. See this: https://gregmarsh.com/MC/Norton/Info/CommandoID.aspx especially the second table.I’m learning. Technically my frame number is a 1970 fastback. All pictures of a 1970 fastback point to having the more square looking covers.
Are the roadster and fastback considered the same thing?