Front and Rear Hub Bearing Removal (2010)

swooshdave · Sep 6, 2010

The manual isn't too bad with instruction but I do like more pictures.

Front and Rear Hub Bearing Removal (2010)

The victim.

Although I started with the rear for this I'll start with the front. Remove the lockring. Mine was really tight. So I applied some heat which did the trick. I had to use a punch but it didn't take much to loosen.

Remove the spacer and felt seal.

The single row bearing.

With a long punch you can pop out the bearing.

A lovely bearing spacer. Luckily it was just yucky.

And out comes the other bearing. The hub was still a little warm from removing the lockring. The manual says something about 100º water to warm the hub.

The parts from the front hub.

Remove the lockring. It's left-hand thread and clearly marked with an LH. Be careful as this is what drives the speedo, so you don't want to damage it. Mine loosened pretty easily.

And out.

Remove spacer and felt seal.

Manual says to take the rear axle and the large spacer to move the bearing.

Using a hide hammer or mallet, drive on the end of the axle until a stop is felt. Driving will have moved the double row bearing further into the hub, moving the bearing spacer tube and in turn, starting to drive the lockring side bearing out of the hub tube. When the stop is felt, the double row bearing has come up against a shoulder in the hub.

Click to expand...

Remove the rear axle and spacer and insert the front wheel axle, threaded end first from the brake drum side. Hold square and tap gently with a hide hammer to drive on the bearing spacer and displace the speedometer drive box side bearing and spacer completely from the hub.

Click to expand...

Remove the front wheel axle and re-insert the rear axle and large plated spacer from the lockring end.

Click to expand...

So I tried this but I don't know what I did wrong because the axle went all the way in.

So I grabbed my bearing drift and drove the bearing out.

The rear hub parts.

All the parts nicely organized so hopefully I won't for forget what is what.

I need remove the tires, rims and spokes then clean and polish the hubs before putting all the parts back in so stay tuned.

grandpaul · Sep 7, 2010

At some point back in time, I took photos of each individual part with an orientation arrow and I.D.'ed them with part number & description.

What a circus with WAY more than 3 rings. Get ONE seemingly insignificant bit wrong, and you have it to do all over again.

DogT · Sep 7, 2010

Make sure you remember which way that rear bearing spacer went, it is counter intuitive. If you don't put it in right everything will bind. You realize you can get the sealed double row bearings from Walridge so you don't have to machine the hubs?

Dave
69S

swooshdave · Sep 7, 2010

DogT said:
Make sure you remember which way that rear bearing spacer went, it is counter intuitive. If you don't put it in right everything will bind. You realize you can get the sealed double row bearings from Walridge so you don't have to machine the hubs?

Dave
69S

I already have a few, if not all the replacement bearings. I need to double check the inventory. I didn't purchase them, they were in the "pile".

swooshdave · Sep 11, 2010

I was trying to figure out what I did with my tire irons, then I remember what grandpaul said about bolt cutters. Not like I care about the rim or tire or spokes. About 5 minutes later...

Now to clean and polish and then put the bearings back in.

KEV-C · Sep 11, 2010

Hi Dave.

Hope you measured the rim offsets?

swooshdave · Sep 11, 2010

KEV-C said:
Hi Dave.

Hope you measured the rim offsets?

Nope. All I have to measure is the box that will ship them to Buchanans. :mrgreen:

swooshdave · Mar 4, 2011

swooshdave said:
KEV-C said:

Hi Dave.

Hope you measured the rim offsets?

Click to expand...

Nope. All I have to measure is the box that will ship them to Buchanans. :mrgreen:

If you've been reading elsewhere it looks like I probably should have measured...

swooshdave · Mar 4, 2011

Front wheel bearing installation. Should be easy...

Not to many parts, right?

Test. Pre-grease.

Driving it in. I've lightly heated the hub, perhaps 100º, just like when I took it out.

Bearing seated.

Spacer, felt seal and lockring.

Spacer

Felt Seal

Lockring. The hub was still slightly warm so hopefully this won't need any locktite.

Other side

Manual says to pack the area around the spacer. It's not jam-packed but there's some grease in there.

Manual says to use the front axle and drive it home. By using the axle it should insure that it goes in square as it's passing through the opposite bearing.

Bearing seated.

I think this is right. Flat thin washer, felt seal and then the domed washer (dome to the outside). This is what it looked like when I took it apart. There is a space between the bearing and the flat washer. I might pack some grease in there.

Is this right?

Also the manual says to lightly pin the domed washer in the hub (and that later ones were a press fit).

Jeandr · Mar 4, 2011

swooshdave said:
Manual says to use the front axle and drive it home. By using the axle it should insure that it goes in square as it's passing through the opposite bearing.

The manual may be wrong there, when you pound in the bearing through the center, you are putting stresss on the balls and the races, that type of bearing is not designed to take that stress. You should use a socket (or something) that pushes on the outside of the bearing (in this case).

Jean

swooshdave · Mar 4, 2011

Jeandr said:
swooshdave said:

Manual says to use the front axle and drive it home. By using the axle it should insure that it goes in square as it's passing through the opposite bearing.

Click to expand...

The manual may be wrong there, when you pound in the bearing through the center, you are putting stresss on the balls and the races, that type of bearing is not designed to take that stress. You should use a socket (or something) that pushes on the outside of the bearing (in this case).

Jean

Yeah, but the manual said to do it that way! :mrgreen:

Next time I'll use a socket.

swooshdave · Mar 4, 2011

On to the rear:

First bearing, driven with the appropriate sized socket! I did lightly heat the hub like I did on the front.

Spacer and felt seal

Tighten down the Left Hand retainer. I gave it a couple light taps with a punch, you don't want to ruin the tangs as they drive the speedo.

Bearing spacer, long shoulder in first, lightly greased. Manual said nothing about packing the rear hub with grease. I put enough on to keep it from rusting.

Drive side bearing

Flat washer

Felt seal and domed washer

All done. A lot easier than I thought it would be.

pelican · Mar 4, 2011

This is a nice thread

Blues · Apr 6, 2015

Hear is a tip from my experience with this procedure as outlined above. I need to mention that all of the outlined steps and pictures in this thread were invaluable for me. I had never attempted this before and I couldn't had done it successfully without this step-by-step.

I did discover a bad case of binding that I traced to the brake assembly/brake side hub edge. I had discovered that I had over inserted (seated) the double row bearing on assembly. This had the effect of loosing the direct contact between the bearing inner race and the hard interface with the brake assembly. If these surfaces are not in contact, the brake assembly rubs directly on the wheel hub at this interface.

To correct this I had to reheat the single bearing side and drive out the single as detailed in the procedure. I then reset the double bearing position from the inside using the front axle. I then repressed the single row bearing. I believe I over compressed the center (large) spacer during the original disassembly which caused me to over seat the double. I hope the current seated positions hold over time because the center spacer is not taking it's intended loading. Hope this saves someone the difficulty.

CanukNortonNut · Apr 6, 2015

KEV-C said:
Hi Dave.

Hope you measured the rim offsets?

Yes my thoughts as well. Good thread Swooshdave.
CNN

cjandme · Apr 7, 2015

CanukNortonNut said:
.........Good thread Swooshdave....CNN

+1 thanks for posting this swoosh

Stephen Hill · Apr 9, 2015

Excellent photos. Very helpful cause folks frequently mess up the spacer assembly in the hubs.

Two comments, for what they are worth:
1. If you are replacing bearings, go with sealed bearings. The felts are usually trash by now, and don't do a very good job of keeping out water and grit.
2. Don't use the axle as a drift, if you care how it will look when you are done. The material is soft, bruises easily, and the plating will be ruined. You will end up buying a new replacement axle, which is a silly way to acquire a drift.

Stephen Hill

74ok · Apr 9, 2015

Stephen Hill said:
2. Don't use the axle as a drift, if you care how it will look when you are done. The material is soft, bruises easily, and the plating will be ruined. You will end up buying a new replacement axle, which is a silly way to acquire a drift.

can't say i have ever come across that (& via inner bearing in particular) being an accepted method, period,

bit weird to hear of it in an official workshop manual

elefantrider · Feb 22, 2018

The photos no longer appear. Is there a fix to get them to appear again please.

L.A.B. · Feb 22, 2018

elefantrider said:
The photos no longer appear. Is there a fix to get them to appear again please.

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Front and Rear Hub Bearing Removal (2010)

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