What year/model? What am I missing?

I would want a later style swing arm because they are essentially stronger, correct?
last yr 75 is a disc setup (not compatible with prior drum/wheel bits), also 1 yr only shifting left side (includes lotsa xtra conversion bits) with braking on the right. Here u could stick with the stock right side shifting but then have to fab up a left side hydraulic disc pedal
 
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last yr 75 is a disc setup (not compatible with prior drum/wheel bits), also 1 yr only shifting left side (includes lotsa xtra conversion bits) with braking on the right. Here u could stick with the stock right side shifting but then have to fab up a left side hydraulic disc pedal
There is a difference between "later" style swingarm (drum brake) and one-year-only "latest" style '75 disc brake setup. The 3 I have are "later" style (as seen in photos)
 
I don't think the disc is compromised, it can be skimmed by a brake specialist. I would also have it drilled...

What year/model? What am I missing?
 
Are these the yokes I’m looking for?

yes, they look exactly like mine... you could buy those, and get the new steering head bearings and any missing headstock parts from andover norton. You should also get new fork tubes from AN too. The rest of the front end you might find cheaper in bits and pieces used, but fork tubes should be brand new from a reputable source.

Sliders also can wear inside in an oval pattern, so used sliders may look like a great deal, but you may feel some slop when you're completely assembled. If you do go with used sliders, don't pay a lot for them...


Then I (emphasis on I) would pursue a disc brake front end which works with the early yokes the same as it does with later model yokes. My 70 model had early yokes and later model disc brake set up, (which is just a disc brake wheel, disc brake slider, and the related brake mechanism) until I changed it to cast alu wheels, an aftermarket brake master cylinder and a yamaha disc... (yeah, blasphemy is my thing)

I still run a 70 swingarm. It's not a problem at all. I wouldn't waste your money on a replacement just yet, You have a lot of other stuff that you need to buy before you go buying upgrade ttparts that aren't essential... No one here would ride my bike and say..... "Wow, I can feel that you have the less rigid swingarm on your bike!"....


** my comment about some parts on a 70 model wasn't to spark a buying spree on your part to upgrade every part like they were "must upgrades", but just to let you know that you have to make sure you buy compatible parts to your model, AND to be aware that IF you have to buy a part for your bike and there's an upgraded part from later models that fit your bike AND work better, it would be a better use of your money to buy the better part...
 
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yes, they look exactly like mine... you could buy those, and get the new steering head bearings and any missing headstock parts from andover norton. You should also get new fork tubes from AN too. The rest of the front end you might find cheaper in bits and pieces used, but fork tubes should be brand new from a reputable source.

Sliders also can wear inside in an oval pattern, so used sliders may look like a great deal, but you may feel some slop when you're completely assembled. If you do go with used sliders, don't pay a lot for them...


Then I (emphasis on I) would pursue a disc brake front end which works with the early yokes the same as it does with later model yokes. My 70 model had early yokes and later model disc brake set up, (which is just a disc brake wheel, disc brake slider, and the related brake mechanism) until I changed it to cast alu wheels, an aftermarket brake master cylinder and a yamaha disc... (yeah, blasphemy is my thing)

I still run a 70 swingarm. It's not a problem at all. I wouldn't waste your money on a replacement just yet, You have a lot of other stuff that you need to buy before you go buying upgrade ttparts that aren't essential... No one here would ride my bike and say..... "Wow, I can feel that you have the less rigid swingarm on your bike!"....


** my comment about some parts on a 70 model wasn't to spark a buying spree on your part to upgrade every part like they were "must upgrades", but just to let you know that you have to make sure you buy compatible parts to your model, AND to be aware that IF you have to buy a part for your bike and there's an upgraded part from later models that fit your bike AND work better, it would be a better use of your money to buy the better part...
Got it. Thanks so much. Not sparking a buying spree. I like the idea of looking for parts that are compatible but also upgrades as I do the rebuild. As long as they are Norton or British parts then I don’t mind if it isn’t 100% stock bike
 
last yr 75 is a disc setup (not compatible with prior drum/wheel bits), also 1 yr only shifting left side (includes lotsa xtra conversion bits) with braking on the right. Here u could stick with the stock right side shifting but then have to fab up a left side hydraulic disc pedal
This is one of the main changes I want to make sure I incorporate. Left side shift. Right side brake. Any pointers on what I need and how to get started getting all the bits needed for this?
 
This is one of the main changes I want to make sure I incorporate. Left side shift. Right side brake. Any pointers on what I need and how to get started getting all the bits needed for this?
Most people who want that configuration (left shift, right brake) would look for a bike that has that configuration because changing a bike to that configuration is not an easy or inexpensive proposition....

IF I was you, I would just learn the use the configuration that you have. It's not hard to get used to it... If you can't live with the current set up, then I would sell this bike and try to find a late model commando that already has the configuration you want... Very few people have done the switch over. I would bet more people have just looked for the late model that has the switchover from the factory...
 
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This is one of the main changes I want to make sure I incorporate. Left side shift. Right side brake. Any pointers on what I need and how to get started getting all the bits needed for this?
that would then also commit, if going with norton bits, the 75 commando hydraulic right side brake pedal unit, swingarm, disc wheel combo

or if going with earlier swingarm, rear drum wheel setup combo, come up with a custom right side brake pedal, that would operate the rear drum brake on the left side of the wheel
 
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Most people who want that configuration (left shift, right brake) would look for a bike that has that configuration because changing a bike to that configuration is not an easy or inexpensive proposition....
not just about adding some cheap linkages but also involves using the 75 gearbox, or appropriately modding another 1, if it can even easily be done, if at all, or worth it
 
This is one of the main changes I want to make sure I incorporate. Left side shift. Right side brake. Any pointers on what I need and how to get started getting all the bits needed for this?


If you want a left foot shift Commando, my recommendation would be to sell this one and find a MkIII. Much less of a headache than trying to convert an earlier machine.

RSR
 
Do all year primary covers fit any model?
There's 2 distinctly different types. Your type has a central bolt that holds the outer cover on. The other type has numerous bolts around the perimeter of the case. You really can't mistake one for the other type if you see a picture.

When I look at your pictures, it looks like you are missing your clutch diaphram mechanism as well as the outer case cover. You'll notice that many of the used outer case covers you see for sale on ebay have a mark on them where the bike fell over and the footrest bolt poked the outer cover.... Mine has a mark there for 40+ years. I don't let it bother me because I'm more of a mechanically correct guy than a pin perfect restoration type guy... But you should be aware that most of the used covers have that blemish and of course a new cover does not. (so don't pay a lot of money for a used cover if it has a blemish)

You can compare your bike to the images here for the 70 interem model drawings to see what pieces you are missing...

You may also find you have parts from the 68-70 model drawings
 
There's 2 distinctly different types. Your type has a central bolt that holds the outer cover on. The other type has numerous bolts around the perimeter of the case. You really can't mistake one for the other type if you see a picture.
the numerous bolts around the perimeter of the case cover is 1 year only 75 factory e-start model, that has a matching inner cover, that now houses the estart bits & accommodates the 1 year only shift/brake pedal swaparoo stuff, that combines the 1 year only rear swingarm, disc brake wheel combo

most of the other same 1 bolt enclosed covers run a chain in an oil bath, if u go with a belt drive conversion, u no longer have a sealing oil scenario then can get funky as u like, with the cover
 
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the numerous bolts around the perimeter of the case cover is 1 year only 75 factory e-start model, that has a matching inner cover, that now houses the estart bits & accommodates the 1 year only shift/brake pedal swaparoo stuff, that combines the 1 year only rear swingarm, disc brake wheel combo

most of the other same 1 bolt enclosed covers run a chain in an oil bath, if u go with a belt drive conversion, u no longer have a sealing oil scenario then can get funky as u like, with the cover
This is over board now. But I found that there is an estart conversion for earlier models

 
Thanks all for the help so far. You are making this project much easier. Another question:

Do all year Z bars and foot pegs fit all models? (Except for the latest year I assume)
 
the numerous bolts around the perimeter of the case cover is 1 year only 75 factory e-start model, that has a matching inner cover, that now houses the estart bits & accommodates the 1 year only shift/brake pedal swaparoo stuff, that combines the 1 year only rear swingarm, disc brake wheel combo

most of the other same 1 bolt enclosed covers run a chain in an oil bath, if u go with a belt drive conversion, u no longer have a sealing oil scenario then can get funky as u like, with the cover
Got it. Clutch diaphragm?

 


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