What year/model? What am I missing?

Mac,
I am also in NC (Pittsboro) which is just south of Chapel Hill. I might have some parts that you need.GrandPaul is a good source as well. Send me a PM if you want to get in touch.Do you have a repair shop up in Asheville?
Mike
Will do Mike! I am the repair shop LOL
 
So that is stock triple trees, later style forks with the brake disc caliper sliders and an after market caliper. Stock wheel hub?
yup

another way - bolt on bracket, uses triumph girling calipers, often found used ebay





What year/model? What am I missing?





dual norvil sliders
What year/model? What am I missing?

 
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I have the AP calliper (in front of the left fork), on an RGM disc, with a braided line straight to the m/c. Works really well. Surprisingly well. Almost modern stopping power with feel.
 
This is one of the main changes I want to make sure I incorporate. Left side shift. Right side brake. Any pointers on what I need and how to get started getting all the bits needed for this?
While I understand this inclination, it is not that hard to adapt between the sides when having both british and euro/japanese bikes. I actually think remembering the difference between up of up and down for up is more difficult but it is also very possible to adapt between triumph and norton patterns. Personally I much prefer down for up on nortons and guzzis to the up for up of japanese bikes.
 
The braking foot,not the shifting foot, was the tricky one for me to adjust to when switching from one shifting configuration to the other. It becomes natural
 
Is the later 5 friction disc set up considered better?

I have the early plate and 5 disc. It works fine. The interesting thing about the clutch is that the diaphragm spring determins a lot. If you get the stack of discs too high, the lever will be light and the clutch slippage potential is the greatest. As you lower the stack height (by replacing metal plates with thinner similar plates) the lever feel gets heavier and the clutch grab on the plates increases too. If you get it too low, you'll need a gorilla to pull the lever, but the clutch will not ever slip... So, I'm not sure how much effect the thickness of the pressure plate makes in the mechanism....

Perhaps there is someone here who has both kinds and feels the difference in that part contributes to a difference in how the clutch mechanism works,... But I can't recall anyone ever saying anything like that or saying that one was superior to the other....
 
Thanks again all for your help. Making this project doable.

Now for carb options. Should I go with original or are there reputable upgrades?

I’m probably not going crazy with performance mods in the engine. At most a cylinder bore to slightly larger pistons depending on condition. Motor is frozen right now
 
This is one of the main changes I want to make sure I incorporate. Left side shift. Right side brake. Any pointers on what I need and how to get started getting all the bits needed for this?
My advice is before you ride the bike, sit on it and remember what shift pattern you are dealing with. One down, three up. One up three down. Left side, Right side . I don't think you would have fun with a Harley left side heal to toe shifter. Just get your head right as to what type of bike you are riding.
 
Thanks again all for your help. Making this project doable.

Now for carb options. Should I go with original or are there reputable upgrades?

I’m probably not going crazy with performance mods in the engine. At most a cylinder bore to slightly larger pistons depending on condition. Motor is frozen right now
As I said previously, the knowledge it takes to judge what you should do, might do, or could do is something that comes with many years of norton ownership.... So IMO, see if you can make what you have work before you start pissing your money away on new shit that you may not need... that's where I would start. So, I'd give the carbs a chance before I just bought new ones. Pull them off clean them up,.. you know the drill...

If the engine is stuck, you'll probably take the head off to un-stuck it. At that point, you pull the barrels and give a look at the cam, the followers and the rods. If the big ends feel good and the cam and followers are good, you could just punch out the barrels, buy new pistons and rings and take a chance on a cylinder refresh only. If the cam and followers are damaged then pull the whole bottom apart and inspect the big ends and crank journals and everything. Any ground up metal parts in your engine pretty much asks for the total tear down (IMO)

The freshen up of the cylinders could just turn your bike into what I call "a runner". That means you've spent the minimum of money to get it running, and then you assess the good and bad from short runs followed by longer ones once you feel like things are working..... like the engine and brakes... You ride the runner for a season assessing it and learning about it's systems and design. Then you make your long term plans to spend lots of money ( kidding, but probably true) Obviously, you drain fluids, look for metallic swarf and put new fluids everywhere. Pull the timing cover off, inspect the chain tensioner and chain, replace the oil pump washer,.... the common sense inspection stuff.

Also inspect the valves and the head. If it looks reasonable and everything else looked ugly but workable, try to make it into a runner and go from there...

If I put of list of all the non stock parts on my bike on a single line of text in this post, there would be at least 100 more lines of text from what I have already said. That's why I think creating a runner first will give you an idea of the character of what a british parallel twin is like. Most people like the feel and the fact that you are riding a dinosaur design that easily flows along with modern traffic is pretty cool... Once you are hooked, you'll figure out what paths of improvement you want to travel and in what order...
 
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Thanks again all for your help. Making this project doable.

Now for carb options. Should I go with original or are there reputable upgrades?

I’m probably not going crazy with performance mods in the engine. At most a cylinder bore to slightly larger pistons depending on condition. Motor is frozen right now
How long is a piece of string?
"Upgrades" is subjective.
The original Amals supplied all that the engine can use.
Replace them if they're worn.
 
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stuck could be minor thru major, i'd go there first









 
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Sorry I should have mentioned that the project did not come with any carbs or components so I have to buy some carbs anyways. Understood on the wide range of choices and preferences on carbs. Just figured I would ask to see if you all had know success with “better” carbs.

I’ll probably just try to find some original carbs and go from there after I free up the motor.

For a 1970 commando is there a specific model number of Amals to search for? I see some options for a brand new set online. I’m guessing the commando also had some inlet manifolds I have to get
 
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a better specific search giving more results for 930 amals high to low

go to dude (best prices also) for stock amals is layed up

his site
 
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