"What is it?"

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pete.v said:
Torontonian said:
A reminder device not to fit push-rods upside down?
Gotcha, you get the boobie Yahtzee. Somebody else care to set him straight, or should this be a new puzzle?

Pushrods for BSA lifters?
 
It is something which can drop into the crank-cases and cause damage, so the guy who suggested using it can get more work.
 
acotrel said:
It is something which can drop into the crank-cases and cause damage, so the guy who suggested using it can get more work.
No, I don't see how it or any part of it can drop into the crankcase. and just because I borrowed the term "Yahtzee" doesn't mean I subtly solicit service. You are thinking of someone else.

This was supposed to be an innocent and helpful thread with a little fun thrown in. A safe and simple thing to help hold the pushrods in place when installing the head of a Commando. I am sure others have done before, so what's the harm?

Ya know, you, being one of those fraction of a 1 percenter "racers", could better serve the forum by simply PM'ing each other rather than high jacking every other thread to arguing with each other to the point of exhaustion. Plying your crap only proves what snobs you all are. I can certainly count on one hand 99% of you.
Here is the most recent example:
acotrel said:
The need for slow capture of the valve train as the valve closes is something of which I became aware when I was a kid. However I've plotted the lift verses crank degrees for a few racing motors and have never detected it. I think it was common with BSA singles, to use a cam with a slow back off to stop the valve snapping shut too quickly, mainly to stop dropping valves. The early GP triumph cams were known to be valve droppers. however the E3134 cams were superb. If the cam is symmetrical a lot depends on the lift rate. In my short stroked 500cc Triumph, the cams took forever to open and close and the lift was not high. It would rev easily to 11,000 RPM. I only ever clipped a valve once.

Holy shit, the first sentence alone tells it all.

But you go on there and take your best shot. It's pete.v season. But remember, there is hell to pay in the crossfire.

I believe it is better to understand than to feel the need to be misunderstood, but unless every statement is clarified, it's easy to have your words misconstrued. Texting is a lot like that. As for what you said, although mildly cryptic, I surely understand. Even though you have mis-assumed, you say more than you know.
Not putting up with peoples bullshit seems to have given me a reputation and thanks in part to my own making, a predisposition to be taken the wrong way. Any how, most people get me, just not the ass holes.
 
L.A.B. said:
Pushrods for BSA lifters?

Yes those look like pushrods for BSA lifters - with cups on both ends. Those plugs look like they work well but you could improve them by using rubber tubing of the correct diameter - say vacuum line tubing. We've all spent time teasing pushrods into place and its a PIA. Do they stay located on the rocker ends throughout installation?
 
jseng1 said:
L.A.B. said:
Pushrods for BSA lifters?

Yes those look like pushrods for BSA lifters - with cups on both ends. Those plugs look like they work well but you could improve them by using rubber tubing of the correct diameter - say vacuum line tubing. We've all spent time teasing pushrods into place and its a PIA. Do they stay located on the rocker ends throughout installation?

I pull them out just to where I don't need them anymore.
I think you could use anything that seems suitable to you. Rubber, soft plastic, rolled up tape around a string, anything, as long as you can attach a cord or string to pull them out as you lower that head.
 
This is the method I used on my last rebuild. Rods held with a rag. The head suspended by an elastic cord, leaving both hands free to fiddle with the rods. As the rods found their positions, the head could be progressively pushed down until the bolts were fitted. It was too easy.


"What is it?"
 
I recall doing the rag stuffing method before. It may have just been my misfortune at the time, but I could not close the gap when torque down. Seems a piece of the rag got pinched somehow and left a small piece behind.

I never felt comfortable doing it that way again. Like I said, it may have simply been my misfortune at the time, but then again, maybe not.
 
I am not going to get into a pi$$ing contest, but holding the rods up with rubber bands always worked fine for me. Just break them off when they're seated. Everyone finds their comfort zone. Let's let it go, we have better things to do. Good idea Pete.
 
I'm going to try this holding up the head with a bungee cord idea real soon , when I change out the leaky RH 4 for the freshly rebuilt RH 10. Grease into the push-rod cups , a good flashlight and probe to help position the rod ends as well.
 
GOOD ONE!!!
I'm at EXACTLY this stage and will apply this great new technique. Awesome timing.
Thanks.

BC
 
pete.v said:
OK, Click gets the big YAHTZEE!

Putting these plugs in there, push the rods forward giving the best clearance for enty into the tunnels. I remember while holding them with my fingers, kept them more inboard offer less clearance and more fumbling about.
I realize it's not science or ground breaking, but it really worked a treat.

"What is it?"
quote]

Unless you have BSA cam followers, You fit pushrods in UPSIDE down :?:
 
Combining accumulated knowledge of the group allowed me a frustration-free, first-time install. Thanks to both Pete.V and MFB for your ideas!
"What is it?"


Nathan
 
NO no no, you need to do a few times without the "Pushrod Tampons" (copyright (patend pending)) to appreciate it.
 
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