Well, I came that close to tapping out the drain plug at the sump and screwing in one of those air compressor tank water drain valves. How convenient to just open that little bastard before and after running.
I have a ball valve on the supply line to keep it from filling the sump when sitting for a time. After running I need to either run at idle for a while to bring the sump to an acceptable level, or drain the sump and pour it back into the tank manually. This method can be quicker and more reliable.
These are 2 unrelated issues with the later being the most detrimental. I have fitted a MKIII timing cover with the anti wet sump valve. During this change over or anytime being in the timing chest, I am inclined to remove the oil pump for inspection. This is not the first time I have discovered a piece of piston ring lodged in the return circuit from the PO’s rebuild.
Therefore, I am inclined to conclude that a wet sump condition on a dry sump system is an unbalance between the supply and return circuit. DUH.
Any type of valve on the supply line can be considered as a misleading attempt to cure a much more serious problem and has nothing to do with true wet sumping.
One way flapper or reed valves on the breather are nothing more the slight vacuum enhancers. They’re OK, I have one but the $6 one is as good as any. Oil comes a blowin out that line with or without a hair brained contraption that supposedly helps wet sumping. If all is well with oil flow, I believe the valves are good.
Pressure Relief Valve Pistons and springs should be check or better yet, replaced ($10 buck for both) .
If there is any concern of lack in return oil flow you must do your utmost to verify that your tunnels are clear, up to and including total teardown. Usually the obstruction will be found on the back of the oil pump and the ports leading to it.
Take heed, the crank will take some oil and the time chest could take the rest starving the system.
I’ve heard some tales lately of stuck valves and many, many, theories. A slight lack of lubrication will bind stems in hot guides.
I have a ball valve on the supply line to keep it from filling the sump when sitting for a time. After running I need to either run at idle for a while to bring the sump to an acceptable level, or drain the sump and pour it back into the tank manually. This method can be quicker and more reliable.
These are 2 unrelated issues with the later being the most detrimental. I have fitted a MKIII timing cover with the anti wet sump valve. During this change over or anytime being in the timing chest, I am inclined to remove the oil pump for inspection. This is not the first time I have discovered a piece of piston ring lodged in the return circuit from the PO’s rebuild.
Therefore, I am inclined to conclude that a wet sump condition on a dry sump system is an unbalance between the supply and return circuit. DUH.
Any type of valve on the supply line can be considered as a misleading attempt to cure a much more serious problem and has nothing to do with true wet sumping.
One way flapper or reed valves on the breather are nothing more the slight vacuum enhancers. They’re OK, I have one but the $6 one is as good as any. Oil comes a blowin out that line with or without a hair brained contraption that supposedly helps wet sumping. If all is well with oil flow, I believe the valves are good.
Pressure Relief Valve Pistons and springs should be check or better yet, replaced ($10 buck for both) .
If there is any concern of lack in return oil flow you must do your utmost to verify that your tunnels are clear, up to and including total teardown. Usually the obstruction will be found on the back of the oil pump and the ports leading to it.
Take heed, the crank will take some oil and the time chest could take the rest starving the system.
I’ve heard some tales lately of stuck valves and many, many, theories. A slight lack of lubrication will bind stems in hot guides.
