Welding on frame

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brokeneagle

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My kickstand/side stand mount is worn down to the point the bike may just fall over soon. I plan to build it back up with a TIG welder and grind it back to where I believe it should be. How much electronic gear is at jeopardy doing this? I am running Tri Spark with original rectifier and zenier system. What do I need to disconnect or remove to be safe? Or should I try an acetylene torch?
 
brokeneagle said:
My kickstand/side stand mount is worn down to the point the bike may just fall over soon. I plan to build it back up with a TIG welder and grind it back to where I believe it should be. How much electronic gear is at jeopardy doing this? I am running Tri Spark with original rectifier and zenier system. What do I need to disconnect or remove to be safe? Or should I try an acetylene torch?

Tig is fine. I would remove the battery cables first. And connect the TIG ground close to where your welding. Jim
 
FWIW I've done MIG welding on my Norton and on a couple of modern bikes and cars, not disconnected anything and not fried anything either. AFAIK muffler shops do not disconnect anything when they weld though as was said it is VERY important to have the ground cable connected as close to the work as practical both physically and electrically, have read some horror stories from when the ground cable was connected at a bad spot (i.e. like on the swingarm when welding elsewhere, current passed through the bearings and damaged them)
 
Disconnecting the battery only takes a minute. Most electric types of welding use a voltage higher than 12 so battery should be disconnected it's good practice.
 
I built up the lug with MIG, disconnected battery, placed ground clamp on the lug, didn't have any problems.

It sure is nice not worrying if the side stand is going to fold under and/or the bike falling over.

When doing any welding on a vehicle I usually disconnect the battery and place the ground as close as possible. That said, I sometimes forget the battery and haven't had any issues. I've only used MIG and not my TIG. I wonder if the HF might have some effect on the electronics? I know I hate zapping myself with it.
 
The whole "disconnect the battery" advice is an old safety precaution brought about by people accidentally wrecking things by virtue of a BAD GROUND. Paint, rust, rubber mounting not seen, etc. all conspire to cause problems when overlooked. Stoopid ole' electricity will always take THE PATH OF LEAST RESISTANCE. If you properly clean (bright, bare metal with a grinder) the ground area AND keep checking as you work the ground hasn't slipped out of position, there's no worry.
 
concours said:
If you properly clean (bright, bare metal with a grinder) the ground area AND keep checking as you work the ground hasn't slipped out of position, there's no worry.
Agree wholeheartedly. However, you should probably disconnect the earth cable on the battery, and maybe the EI box. I'd hate to fry electronics by the mere action of having the ground clamp slip.

Nathan
 
Nater_Potater said:
concours said:
If you properly clean (bright, bare metal with a grinder) the ground area AND keep checking as you work the ground hasn't slipped out of position, there's no worry.
Agree wholeheartedly. However, you should probably disconnect the earth cable on the battery, and maybe the EI box. I'd hate to fry electronics by the mere action of having the ground clamp slip.

Nathan

True story, hence the precautions. Kinda like redundant safety. A good safety net, I agree. Like armor in motorcycle gear.... If everything goes well, you'll never need it :mrgreen:
 
Thanks for the feedback. I will disconnect the battery and put a bolt through the sidestand mount and clip the ground to it. Ironically last night a terrible lightning storm hit my home and apperantly my car. 2011 Ford Explorer. Went to start it this AM and power steering gone, every imaginable warning flashing. Locks won't unlock, windows won't roll down. I spoke to the dealer and he said you might want to talk to your insurance because this type of damage can sometimes be a total loss. This is exactly why I was worried about welding on an intact motorcycle frame.
 
"Lightning never strikes twice in the same place" - so you should be safe.
(ha ha, don't believe that hoary old myth.).

I'd disconnect the ignition box, just to be safe.
If its easy to remove off the frame, that could be helpful too.
We see a lot of mentions of recently deceased ignitions here.....

In the computer business, we were taught that static doesn't always kill electronics, it can just wound it.
(So it dies later).
Just handling electronics requires a static strap to earth, to ensure any stray currents are dissipated without doing any harm.

But, muffler shops routinely weld (car) exhausts, seemingly without any problems, as mentioned.
 
My Pazon instructions say that if electric welding is to be performed the module should be removed.
 
May not be applicable to Nortons, but I watched a gassing battery on a truck explode when a spark got too close. Acid everywhere.
 
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