Waking up a 69 Commando

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The extra saddle included with the spare parts has me wondering what tank is supposed to pair with it.
Any ideas?

Waking up a 69 Commando
Waking up a 69 Commando
Waking up a 69 Commando
 
I need to replace the fiberglass tank but not with the Interstate tank.
Perhaps this will help pay for the new tank.
 
ashman said:
...bike will run with worn slides just won't idle real good...
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Assuming you're considering switching to an aftermarket electronic ignition, get something with an idle stabilizing circuit (like the Pazon Altair); these will cover many ills in the idling department. While you're prepping it to light for the first time, don't be tempted to kick it over a bunch of times, thinking that you're priming the oil system. All that'll do is stress the cam and followers, as they require some speed (read RPM) to keep them "hydroplaning", especially when first starting. As others have said, drain the oil tank and engine sump, fill the oil tank with fresh oil, then fire it up. After left sitting for a longer than normal time, I always pull the oil dipstick cap to watch for proper scavenge oil return. You should see an oil/foam/bubble mix within 10-15 seconds after starting. 'Good looking bike! Keep those pictures coming.

Nathan
 
The bike was prepared well for storage - I removed the caps at the bottom of the float bowls and they were clean.
The tank has been pulled and the side covers will be next when I drain the sump/tank and change the filter.
I will be taking detailed photo's while this comes apart.
Thanks for all the help!
 
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Be careful with the early type center stand. When they get a bit worn they can be unstable. DAMHIK. When I had my engine out of the frame I removed the engine cradle and had it drilled to take a 850 stand. Other guys have had steel welded on to the "feet" of the early stand to make it more stable.
 
The seats shown do not look anything like my seat. The logo is supposed to be gold instead of silver, my mistake.
Also something to look at is the prop stand is held on by a pin that is held in place with a circlip. It may be safer to install a bolt and nylock. Or if you're into heavy originality, leave it as it is and install a grub screw through the stand support on the frame. There is also a BSA stand that will fit that's longer and makes the bike stand upright a bit more which may be advantageous. I always stick a 1x or even a 2x under the prop stand it leans so much. I find it much easier to put up on the center stand by running the front wheel up on a 2x4 before using it. There are variations of this.
Waking up a 69 Commando
 
Thanks for the center stand details - I'm not looking for a museum piece here.
I appreciate the honest wear and have no immediate plans for a cosmetic investment.
Now, running/riding comes first. Found out tonight the points are still there, that's going to change.
Waking up a 69 Commando
 
EI is a large improvement. I went for the Pazon SureFire and new coils and wires from MAP. Forget where I got the Pazon, maybe MAP also. Follow the Pazon instructions, very clear.
 
Today I changed the oil/lubed the valve rockers. Added a fresh battery, no ethane fuel - turned the key, tickled the carbs, kicked it maybe twenty times --- not a pop. Pulled the plugs and they were dry. There is no "choke" hooked up but the cable/control assy is included in the spare parts. Will fool with that tomorrow.
My back is a little sore . . .
 
Having a choke fitted will not make that much of a difference, in my experience.

Find a couple of clamps like this https://www.ebay.com/itm/4-Pack-6-S....l1311.R1.TR12.TRC2.A0.H1.Xspring+clamps.TRS0
and use them to hold the plugs against the engine (to ground them) and see if you have spark while kicking with the ignition on.
With a good battery, firmly attached ground wires, a working switch, good coils, points set, and a dark space, you shd see a fat blue spark at both plugs, ya.

Did you make sure the petcocks are clear? If you hold the ticklers down, fuel shd spill out onto the cases.
 
If you have spark, assuming the timing is in the ballpark, then the problem is fuel. As noted, check to see there really IS fuel in the carbs. Re tickling, if the float level is set too low, pressing the tickler won't do anything. Also, Did you disassemble the carbs/clean them? They could be so gunked up internally that no fuel is flowing in the circuits.

Re the points/EI. Yes, EI is maint free but it doesn't make the bike run better than properly maintained points/AAU. In many cases, it won't run as well power-wise. My point is not ANTI-EI but more oriented toward getting the bike up and running first before fooling around with "upgrades." Points work well and they take virtually no power to operate so with an old bike you are working on to get running points are "easier" on the electrical system. So I suggest you leave them in place until the bike is running to your satisfaction. Then look into an E-ignition that duplicates the OEM (points/AAU) advance curve. That's not any system that requires the engine be spinning at 5k RPM to check the timing; advance should be all-in by 3000 RPM.

Re the single carb manifold - throw that in the trash where it belongs! ;)
 
alan hodge said:
what is the BSA stand that fits?
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I'll see if I can find my notes on it. I think I had a part number. Reason is because it's longer and doesn't let the bike lean as much. Original prop stand usually won't work very good on asphalt.
 
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