68-69 Commando S

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Thanks gents. I'll hopefully be digging in over the weekend, anything I should look for right off the bat/a good starting point? I'm going to be putting together an order list and would appreciate some input from you guys if possible. I'll also start a project thread. Thanks again.
 
Motorcycles are a bit like airplanes in that, one little problem can kill you dead!
Chassis and suspension is where I would start. Chassis alignment, wheels/wheel bearings, forks, steering neck bearings, swing arm/pivot, shocks. Any one of those details can induce a tank slapper that will just about ruin your day, definitely ruin your underwear.
 
Certainly, I guess I'm wondering if there are any commando specific weakpoints I will need to inspect right off the bat, besides the typical hard wearing rubber/bearing parts that will need routine inspection or replacement. Trying to get familiar with the quirks and characteristics.
 
R&R front and rear wheel bearings. Check for swing arm looseness, if necessary install Kiegler mods, split ring shafts to stabilize the swing arm, check the swing arm bushings. Get a better headsteady, at least the later version, if not a heim or rose joint HS, this can be put off. Dave Taylor HS is reasonable. As Les says, gearbox layshaft bearing for sure. While you're in the gearbox, check all the sleeve bearings, especially the one to the sprocket, it is prone to drift out and get eaten up which makes for a loose/bent shaft, there's a fix for this. Make sure gearbox going through gears correctly. Check/adjust primary chain and clutch. New isolastics, Hemmings vernier adjuster, there are other options on the vernier adjuster. New tires/tubes of course. Open the timing case and check things in there. Have new rubber parts and gaskets to re-install, the slotted screws can be replaced with socket head 1/4-20's. Go over wiring with a fine tooth comb. Remove the blue capacitor, it's probably shorted or at least dead, you don't need that unless you're going to run without battery, just tape up the dead ends. Check alternator output, running at 2500rpm or more it should not completely discharge on your ammeter with headlamp on, but most likely will discharge to some degree. Pazon SureFire EI is reasonably cheap and effective, the AAU is most likely worn out. Rebuild the front end, new fork tubes and bushings, clean and new fork oil. Set up the front TLS brake properly, that brake can be made to work reasonably well, but will always fade with heavy braking, otherwise drag your feet. The front brake cable has a switch in it which is a disaster, consider getting rid of it and installing a different type switch for the front brake and a cable with no switch, no good options I know of here. New shocks, chain? I can go on and on. Lots of little upgrades that can be done later to make it a bit more reliable. I know nothing about that single carb. You should be able to do this over the winter.

Do me a favor and look up around the coils and you should see 2 pair of heavy red wires that will be connected together (4 wires into 2) to ground or earth. Where are those 2 double red wires connected?
 
You will most likely need new rubber parts for the gas tank. Rubber flip-flops make good rubber for use on top of the tube in the tank tunnel and also for making gaskets for the front mounts. Do not use those little 'wings' to bear weight, they will break off. Cut off circles from your old tubes to use as bands for the rear of the tank, depending on how you mount the new one. Not all of them have those knobs for the bands at the rear. Newer ones used a strap. Start exercising your legs to start it.
 
Great, exactly what I needed. Rubber parts and electrics are to be expected with any older motorcycle of course, as are the basics. Will plan to rebuild the gearbox and replace the harness, thanks for the tip. The mikuni should be fairly straightforward.

If you've got the time, my ears are always wide open. Thanks again.
 
I'm sure you'll have questions when you get into it. Try to keep good notes and pictures. Never enough pics.

It would be nice if when you have the gearbox apart to mill for proper seal in the shift lever hole and the kickstart hole. There is also some replacement O-ring for the KS shaft that some use. I sent mine to FairSpares in CA for the work, fairly cheap. The tach drive can also be sent to him for installation of an O-ring on that to stop it from leaking. Others do this too. Be careful re-installing the timing case, the oil pressure goes through it and needs proper NEW parts installed correctly. Install an oil filter, this can be done at any time. All these items have been thoroughly discussed on the forum over time and all can be done in the home workshop. You'll need at least a 1/4" WW socket, preferably 3/8 drive and also a 1/4 WW combo spanner. You might have to grind on them some. A lot of your American std wrenches and sockets will work on a lot of stuff. 6 pt snap-on sockets are real nice. Get a 1 1/2" combo wrench from the hitch section of WallyWorld for a few bucks for the sump plug. Consider changing the engine breathing system, get rid of the timed breather off that right angle fitting at the front of the crank case and do something different. There are several options. But that's only going to happen if you have the engine apart most likely.
 
I have a 70 "R" or Roadster which doesn't have the pipes on the left side but like all the standard Commandos.
If you have any questions feel free to ask. Got my steel tank from Commando Specialists.
John in Texas

68-69 Commando S
 
68-69 Commando S

First time outside in 35 years.

68-69 Commando S

Am I right in assuming the brake cable end will need to be attached after threading through the end piece?

68-69 Commando S

68-69 Commando S

Classy Corbin seat. Real leather!

68-69 Commando S

Made in France...
 
I'm sure many on this forum can relate to the thrill from seeing your "new" Commando out in the light. Very cool!
68-69 Commando S

First time outside in 35 years.

68-69 Commando S

Am I right in assuming the brake cable end will need to be attached after threading through the end piece?

68-69 Commando S

68-69 Commando S

Classy Corbin seat. Real leather!

68-69 Commando S

Made in France...
 
Yes, it is a good feeling. I've wanted a Norton since I can remember, my dad is a British car guy and I've always loved English design and engineering. It feels great finally owning one, this one in particular as it belonged to a friend of my father's. I am anticipating an interesting road ahead.
 
That bike looks in pretty good shape. How many miles on it if you think they're real?
 
14k which I assume is correct. As to your earlier question regarding the red wires near the coil. There are two that come from the main harness that ground to a mount near the frame. I can upload a photo later.
 
Here are the only two red wires near the coils. Both run to ground. Don't know if that helps any.

68-69 Commando S

68-69 Commando S
 
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