Vernier Type Isolastic System

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illf8ed said:
I'm still using the shim set up original to my '72. The front Iso is pretty easy to adjust. The rear is a pain, but so is converting to vernier set up.
One issue that will remain with the vernier is the Iso cans are normally warped from original welding. That leaves the "gap" uneven around the circumference. It's British so take an average. :)

How hard can it be taking off one side of the iso and installing the Hemmings adjuster? I think I did the whole thing including playing with the new adjusters in an hour.

Vernier Type Isolastic System
 
swooshdave said:
thunderbolt said:
Thanks Guys for the various replies. I now have an understanding of the kits needed for front and rear engine mountings. Not cheap, but needs to be done.
Thanks again.

Don

If you think those are expensive in comparison to the rest of the restoration costs I suggest you give your bank account a hug now. It may be the last time you see it. :mrgreen:

haha Yeah I've checked out some of the bits I might need, pistons, guides, bearings, exhausts, carbs, etc. Not cheap.

At least I can get my painting done for nicks. Best mate is a spray painter and can do everything for me in two pack including the frame and associated bits.

Cheers
Don
 
I have spread the cost and my energy out over many years .... really it's been a ongoing resto / repair ... a thousand or more a year , this spring maybe triple that .... people say they don't know where the time went , I say where did all the cash go .... I have been able to ride every year so other than the money it's been a pain free pleasure ... all done now except , the bottom end of engine hasn't been touched .... waiting for that shoe to drop at some point , for now it's ride and ride some more ...
Craig
 
Craig said:
I have spread the cost and my energy out over many years .... really it's been a ongoing resto / repair ... a thousand or more a year , this spring maybe triple that .... people say they don't know where the time went , I say where did all the cash go .... I have been able to ride every year so other than the money it's been a pain free pleasure ... all done now except , the bottom end of engine hasn't been touched .... waiting for that shoe to drop at some point , for now it's ride and ride some more ...
Craig

You can always make some more money somehow Craig. You would only have spent that $1000 or so per year on something else. Some folk spend (much) more than that on fags for goodness sake.
(edit: meaning cigarettes, not homosexual liaisons... Although some might spend even more on that thinking about it!!)

Time however is the one factor that is truly finite, and we can't even plan for that cos we don't know how finite!

So ride, and enjoy, and when the bottom end 'shoe drops' its simply a chance for some nice upgrades!
 
Exactly what I was thinking .... until then I have a real nice handling, stopping , looking and riding Commando , it's all done up and only used on sunny days .... got the ST3s for all the other times ...
Craig
 
Which are the best kits to get? from which supplier? With comfort, vibration, etc in mind. Andover, Norvil, RGM, etc. Are some rubbers in the different kits softer than others?

Thanks
 
Do a search here and you'll see all of them have been used with good results, and all of them have been used with less-than-optimal results.

I believe it is all in the PROPER setup.

Also, using the late style MkIII head steady with support spring is very beneficial to the rubber donuts lasting longer with regular use. Ultimate setup is a heim joint top steady with the support spring setup, and a front steady to help the total engine movement remain coplanar with the frame spine.
 
I ordered the rubber parts from Old Brits as the part numbers for a 71, they don't list them for 68-70. I noticed right away that the vibration level went up, now whether my old ones were softer or worn out, I don't know. They certainly were compressed to one side. DynoDave did some studies on the softness of the rubbers, but who's to know which ones you get. There was some speculation that the rubbers got stiffer with the heavier 850, but no one that I know of has done a real study of the rubber softness of the different parts and then there's the issue of where they come from and the suppliers.

The spring did lower the vibration level for me, but I only noticed it at idle. I also went from the early head steady to a home made heim joint and I didn't notice any difference in the vibration levels.

There have also been people that have modified the rubbers by drilling holes in them or tapering the edges to make them softer. You pays your money, you takes your chances.
 
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