Update the battery charging system (2015)

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Please,
another little help, thank you.
I ave fitted the new 3 phases rotor and stator.
In the rear of the rotor there are, from the crankcase sprocket forward, the .040 and .010 shims and the rotor spacer whit the carved part forward: is a correct sequence?.
So i have fitted rotor and stator: the rotor is not equal (flat) to the stator on the front side and is inward of 8 mm and is out (to the sprocket side)from the stator  of 8 mm.
Is that correct?
Ciao
Piero
 
It does happen like that sometimes but as long as nothing is touching things it should not all will be ok. Some people say that it may not develop the full charge as the magnets are not enclosed but others say it will not be enough to make much difference.
Many owners alter or replace the three spacers on the studs that set the position of the stator to the rotor. A simple easy way (I did to mine) is just to replace the spacers with stacks of washers. Make sure the are the same number of washers on each stud and they are of the same thickness as some washers are different thickness even for same hole size. Its just as good as a spacer an by altering the number of washers you can get the position almost spot on or close enough to make no difference plus once outer cover is back on the primary no one can see it.
 
Hi,
I mean, but is better to have the rotor and stator flat?.
Then, what is the correct sequence of the .040 and .010 shims and the rotor spacer (whit the recess part forward).
Thanks
Piero
 
pierodn said:
Please,
another little help, thank you.
I ave fitted the new 3 phases rotor and stator.
In the rear of the rotor there are, from the crankcase sprocket forward, the .040 and .010 shims and the rotor spacer whit the carved part forward: is a correct sequence?.
Click to expand...


What you described is correct. The shims go first then the spacer with the machined step facing outboard towards the rotor. The machined step ensures that it doesn't interfere with the rotor's woodruff key. When shimming the rotor you want to ensure that the rotor timing marks do not touch or chafe the ignition indicator plate that is attached inside the outer primary chain case.


pierodn said:
So i have fitted rotor and stator: the rotor is not equal (flat) to the stator on the front side and is inward of 8 mm and is out (to the sprocket side)from the stator  of 8 mm.
Is that correct?
Ciao
Piero
Click to expand...

Originally the stator does not line up with the rotor, so I suppose that is correct. On my bike I made new 3/8 inch long spacers that brought the stator more in line with the rotor. At least it looks better that way.

Peter Joe
 
Nater_Potater said:
snipped
3) LED bulb http://www.ebay.com/itm/1PC-Motorcycle- ... d6&vxp=mtr One of the main reasons I bought this bulb was the fact that it can be used with a positive earth system. I have been very happy with the performance of this unit. Also, see permanent-solution-dim-commando-headlight-t20361.html for a full story of the progression we went through a bit ago. It's a long thread, but there's lots of good info and insights contained therein.snipped
Nathan
Click to expand...

The second link shown above is dead. It should link to:

https://www.accessnorton.com/NortonCommando/permanent-solution-to-dim-commando-headlight.17544/

Charlie
 
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