TTI gb info please

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I had the same problem once. It would jump from 1st to 2nd. Turned out to be a worn clutch center causing drag. Trying to find neutral,
I had to do it on a rolling stop. The new clutch center fixed that. Oh, and clean plates too.
Just my 2 cents
 
Madnorton said:
As for the MK3 version, don't bother, it does not fit unless you modify the cradle and primary drive. Apparently they think all the input shafts through the inner cover are square to the cover and not angled, I tried to explain but was told I was wrong. And yes, I have their reply.
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That's not pleasing news. I have yet to fit mine (a Mk3 version). While I was aware of the cradle interference, the primary cover mismatch is new info to me. Has someone worked out an engineering solution to this (I presume yes) ?
Fitting a tiny cardan joint is a possibility, if not a desired one.

- Knut
 
The member doing the Phoenix head is onto it. Sorting it himself as TTI weren't much help.
 
Madnorton said:
The member doing the Phoenix head is onto it. Sorting it himself as TTI weren't much help.
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I am sorry, but a "Phoenix head" doesn't ring a bell here. I've heard of a Phoenix SU carb conversion though. Did you mean dobba99's Merlin project?
According to his last update he ordered a TTI box but I think he hasn't received it yet.

Cheers,
Knut
 
Guido said:
I had the same problem once. It would jump from 1st to 2nd. Turned out to be a worn clutch center causing drag. Trying to find neutral,
I had to do it on a rolling stop. The new clutch center fixed that. Oh, and clean plates too.
Just my 2 cents
Click to expand...
It seems clutch drag would cause this problem. It shifts very well in both directions just doesn't want to linger in neutral.
 
seattle##gs said:
It seems clutch drag would cause this problem. It shifts very well in both directions just doesn't want to linger in neutral.
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Trying to help here...I covered these point in my last post here.

1. Is this a new box? (if not are you 100% sure there is no wear in the clutch lift mechanism (standard Triumph 3 ball) and is clutch push rod length good with no wear one either end.
2. Are you using an original clutch lever or an after market one? (pivot distances vary, I have had to use a 33mm pivot pin to cable lever on mine to get good lift/clearance, normal lift is around 25mm)
3. Have you checked you are getting sufficient lift to clear the clutch fully? I have to adjust the cable and pressure plate adjusters to very little clearance to work as I want it, too much clearance equals clutch drag and poor neutral selection.
 
The box is brand new.
I am using an aftermarket lever. It is an emgo copy of the old spanish amal levers ...bultaco, etc....the pivot distance is 23mm which has always been sufficient for several Nortons I am familiar with, this one included. (with the standard trans) I am very familiar with clutch drag and unless we are talking about an imperceptible amount of clutch drag, I would say there is none here. There is minimal clearance between the clutch actuator and the clutch itself. Which lever gives you 33mm lift? I could always make up a new cable and try it.
 
Before Steve replies to you , you could check with Domino levers they have a full range of fulcrum pivot distance.......
 
seattle##gs said:
The box is brand new.
I am using an aftermarket lever. It is an emgo copy of the old spanish amal levers ...bultaco, etc....the pivot distance is 23mm which has always been sufficient for several Nortons I am familiar with, this one included. (with the standard trans) I am very familiar with clutch drag and unless we are talking about an imperceptible amount of clutch drag, I would say there is none here. There is minimal clearance between the clutch actuator and the clutch itself. Which lever gives you 33mm lift? I could always make up a new cable and try it.
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Very expensive Domino, copy of the Yamaha TZ race lever. Bought from a race parts supplier in Italy, I couldn't find it on their site now, but others do carry it, added up to about 100 Euros, but that was the best price I could find at the time. Quick look did give other 33 mm Fulcrum Domino levers.

This is a dog leg lever, and I took the time to 'adjust' it to make sure the full length of the lever will rest against the grip.

You will find several items like mid-range Magura levers that can give you 25 mm Fulcrum or a little more, the Domino seems to be the only one giving 33 mm Fulcrum.

To compound things I have a Norman White clutch which seems sensitive to it all, though it is better with new friction plates and a restored stack height and a new bearing.
 
With the T140 style ball lifter mechanism it is imperative to ensure that the clutch pushrod is adjusted with zero cable tension, and then the cable is adjusted afterwards.

If this isn’t followed, the lifter can be in a partially lifted point on the balls, and this means you lose available lift.

I run a TTI and Barnett clutch pack and find the clutch is fantastic with a light lift action and very good clutch operation.

In fact IMHO the T140 lifter suits the Norton diaphragm clutch spring better than the Norton lifter arrangement.
 
Don't have problem with finding neutral on mine. Just as fiddly as on any other bike. Never found any false neutrals, But 5th hard because longer throw on the lever.
Some times not getting it in 5th at all. Mine has first up with reversed lever. I really hate the long movement of the clutch pushrod. Makes clutch operation very hard.
Had to mill off some material from the case so it fitted in the Manx without interfering with the frame.
 
The Magura clutch lever and perch should give you enough pivot. It's over an inch, and around $50US. But then you'd probably want to get a Magura brake lever setup to maintain an asymmetrical look.
 
Except, mine has plain alloy lever on black perch....yep....expensive....


www.discovolantemoto.co.uk

Domino clutch lever, 'GP' pattern

If Carlsberg made cable operated clutch levers Probably the best clutch lever in the World Superlative quality clutch lever from the Domino
www.discovolantemoto.co.uk www.discovolantemoto.co.uk
 
Schwany said:
The Magura clutch lever and perch should give you enough pivot. It's over an inch, and around $50US. But then you'd probably want to get a Magura brake lever setup to maintain an asymmetrical look.
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Sadly no, cause I want to keep the original clip-ons with integral levers. Sometimes I prefer keeping it original. And of course have to have less pivot to get a lighter pull.
The Manx clutch with fewer plates don't need much movement of the pushrod. The laydown gearbox had less movement than the Dommie AMC gearbox, which moves less than the Commando box.
 
I use the emgo levers whenever I can because they provide an easy pull, I can use the standard cable, they are low cost, they hold up quite well and they look really good...hard to find all of this anywhere for under $30 for the pair.
My usual method of checking clutch action is to sit on the running bike, shift into first. Is it an easy shift or does it require unusual effort? Once engaged does the bike want to creep forward or remain still? Does it make all the gears easily up and down? Are stop lights and signs no problem at all?
It does all of this very well. Is it possible that I need to separate the clutch further to make the TTI box snick into neutral with a positive click?
 
seattle##gs said:
I use the emgo levers whenever I can because they provide an easy pull, I can use the standard cable, they are low cost, they hold up quite well and they look really good...hard to find all of this anywhere for under $30 for the pair.
My usual method of checking clutch action is to sit on the running bike, shift into first. Is it an easy shift or does it require unusual effort? Once engaged does the bike want to creep forward or remain still? Does it make all the gears easily up and down? Are stop lights and signs no problem at all?
It does all of this very well. Is it possible that I need to separate the clutch further to make the TTI box snick into neutral with a positive click?
Click to expand...
Good checks. I'd just add, WOT uphill at 5,000 revs, to see if it slips.
 
Mike40M said:
Sadly no, cause I want to keep the original clip-ons with integral levers. Sometimes I prefer keeping it original. And of course have to have less pivot to get a lighter pull.
The Manx clutch with fewer plates don't need much movement of the pushrod. The laydown gearbox had less movement than the Dommie AMC gearbox, which moves less than the Commando box.
Click to expand...
Wasn't meant for you Mike. I should have used a quoted reply. It was a thought only for a 33mm pivot clutch lever setup for seattle#gs.
 
The Magura clutch perch that CNW sells has a 29mm pivot. You need to enlarge the barrel hole on the lever slightly by drilling it out.
 
gortnipper said:
The Magura clutch perch that CNW sells has a 29mm pivot. You need to enlarge the barrel hole on the lever slightly by drilling it out.
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That’s the lever I use, and it works perfectly on mine.

When I ran the stock box I fitted a Comnoz hydraulic clutch kit and really liked the feel it provided.

Then, when I fitted the TTI, I intended to adapt a T140 hydraulic clutch kit to fit, but was impatient to get the bike up and running, so I put it on the ‘things to do later‘ list and fitted the Magura lever and a cable instead.

I was amazed at how good it was, and promptly scrapped plans to fit a hydraulic kit !
 
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