That's not pleasing news. I have yet to fit mine (a Mk3 version). While I was aware of the cradle interference, the primary cover mismatch is new info to me. Has someone worked out an engineering solution to this (I presume yes) ?As for the MK3 version, don't bother, it does not fit unless you modify the cradle and primary drive. Apparently they think all the input shafts through the inner cover are square to the cover and not angled, I tried to explain but was told I was wrong. And yes, I have their reply.
I am sorry, but a "Phoenix head" doesn't ring a bell here. I've heard of a Phoenix SU carb conversion though. Did you mean dobba99's Merlin project?The member doing the Phoenix head is onto it. Sorting it himself as TTI weren't much help.
It seems clutch drag would cause this problem. It shifts very well in both directions just doesn't want to linger in neutral.I had the same problem once. It would jump from 1st to 2nd. Turned out to be a worn clutch center causing drag. Trying to find neutral,
I had to do it on a rolling stop. The new clutch center fixed that. Oh, and clean plates too.
Just my 2 cents
Trying to help here...I covered these point in my last post here.It seems clutch drag would cause this problem. It shifts very well in both directions just doesn't want to linger in neutral.
Very expensive Domino, copy of the Yamaha TZ race lever. Bought from a race parts supplier in Italy, I couldn't find it on their site now, but others do carry it, added up to about 100 Euros, but that was the best price I could find at the time. Quick look did give other 33 mm Fulcrum Domino levers.The box is brand new.
I am using an aftermarket lever. It is an emgo copy of the old spanish amal levers ...bultaco, etc....the pivot distance is 23mm which has always been sufficient for several Nortons I am familiar with, this one included. (with the standard trans) I am very familiar with clutch drag and unless we are talking about an imperceptible amount of clutch drag, I would say there is none here. There is minimal clearance between the clutch actuator and the clutch itself. Which lever gives you 33mm lift? I could always make up a new cable and try it.
Sadly no, cause I want to keep the original clip-ons with integral levers. Sometimes I prefer keeping it original. And of course have to have less pivot to get a lighter pull.The Magura clutch lever and perch should give you enough pivot. It's over an inch, and around $50US. But then you'd probably want to get a Magura brake lever setup to maintain an asymmetrical look.
Good checks. I'd just add, WOT uphill at 5,000 revs, to see if it slips.I use the emgo levers whenever I can because they provide an easy pull, I can use the standard cable, they are low cost, they hold up quite well and they look really good...hard to find all of this anywhere for under $30 for the pair.
My usual method of checking clutch action is to sit on the running bike, shift into first. Is it an easy shift or does it require unusual effort? Once engaged does the bike want to creep forward or remain still? Does it make all the gears easily up and down? Are stop lights and signs no problem at all?
It does all of this very well. Is it possible that I need to separate the clutch further to make the TTI box snick into neutral with a positive click?
Wasn't meant for you Mike. I should have used a quoted reply. It was a thought only for a 33mm pivot clutch lever setup for seattle#gs.Sadly no, cause I want to keep the original clip-ons with integral levers. Sometimes I prefer keeping it original. And of course have to have less pivot to get a lighter pull.
The Manx clutch with fewer plates don't need much movement of the pushrod. The laydown gearbox had less movement than the Dommie AMC gearbox, which moves less than the Commando box.
That’s the lever I use, and it works perfectly on mine.The Magura clutch perch that CNW sells has a 29mm pivot. You need to enlarge the barrel hole on the lever slightly by drilling it out.