TRITON, at last...

Okay, now you can see the details better in good light.

Still not running, but very close (this evening).

Some people say the unit engine looks "lost" inside the featherbed frame, like there's too much empty space; I disagree, I think it looks nicely proportional.

TRITON, at last...


TRITON, at last...


This is pretty much it, except for patent plate, muffler mount tabs and maybe a screen on the timing window.
 
GP it looks like you need to learn how to figure watts divided by volts to sizes your fuse's, the way you have it now it would need at least a 40 amp alternator to support every thing judging by the fuse's. the headlight fuse can handle a 250 watt light so it is WAY over sized like most of the fuse's. the cheap uninsulated, non sealed and unsupported crimp connectors is another disaster waiting to happen. there is also way better products to build a wiring harness than cheap electrical tape and inexpensive auto parts store connectors

grandpaul said:
Fabbed up a simple electrical panel that hides under the gas tank, every circuit fused in a 6-fuse box with a 30 amp main breaker (auto reset), and horn relay-

TRITON, at last...



Other than integrating some brake light switches, the electrics are done.
 
bill said:
GP it looks like you need to learn how to figure watts divided by volts to sizes your fuse's, the way you have it now it would need at least a 40 amp alternator to support every thing judging by the fuse's. the headlight fuse can handle a 250 watt light so it is WAY over sized like most of the fuse's. the cheap uninsulated, non sealed and unsupported crimp connectors is another disaster waiting to happen. there is also way better products to build a wiring harness than cheap electrical tape and inexpensive auto parts store connectors

Fuses are chosen for the load AND the wire size, they don't all add up like each was drawing its full load. Look at your house wiring, if you were to add all the 15 amp circuits, it would be way more than the feed for the whole house without counting the other circuits. With the short runs on a bike, the fuses could all be 30 amps and they would blow faster than any wire that could heat up and burn.

Jean

PS I also hate electrical tape with a passion :!:
 
bill said:
the headlight fuse can handle a 250 watt light so it is WAY over sized like most of the fuse's.

So long as the fuses can't handle a short circuit, they'll do their job.

the cheap uninsulated, non sealed and unsupported crimp connectors

I've not had much luck with those things, either. People tell me they're ok if you use a superduper crimping tool.
 
I do also understand what is referred to as coincidental load and amps V wire sizing but a 20 amp to run JUST the headlight is NUTS, the whole bike would run just fine on a 15 amp fuse. The whole job looks like something that was done by a 16 year old AMATEUR not some one that sells them self as a PROFESSIONAL :roll:

Jeandr said:
Fuses are chosen for the load AND the wire size, they don't all add up like each was drawing its full load. Look at your house wiring, if you were to add all the 15 amp circuits, it would be way more than the feed for the whole house without counting the other circuits. With the short runs on a bike, the fuses could all be 30 amps and they would blow faster than any wire that could heat up and burn.

Jean

PS I also hate electrical tape with a passion :!:
 
Bernhard said:
Spade connectors are under bonnet tin box type, with exposed metal on spade connectors.
Motorcycle connectors have plastic covered type,;

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... mepage.php

Thats what I used on my last build, also ordered from Vehicle Wiring Products. http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/V ... blades.php I removed all the lucar correctors and replaced them with the plastic covered type spade connectors (including the Boyer that came with those horrible automotive crimp type connectors) and I've never had a problem.
I GPZs defense I guess that fuse panel is pretty well protected by the tank, but I'm not sure how well they would cope over time.

Webby
 
Any updates?
How does she sound?
I am building a 62 and have come to a dilemma on the Sidestand :? ,the 850 plates dont allow for the centerstand use and the sidestands are hard to find (and useless at that :roll: ). Love your build! If you could post more pics or PM of your sidestand I would appreciate it! Congratulations on your build!

JW
 
No updates. My wyfe got a paying job which started this past Monday, and I've been doing "Mr.Mom" all week, will be doing so again next week and 'till school starts.

Meanwhile I had one of my clients in the shop last week and we built up and installed the forks and rear end with gear drive on his '82 Magna chassis. Besides that, I've sold several featherbed swingarm spindle kits on e-bay and forums, so I've been in my friend's shop turning them out, as well as helping him build new walls to enclose and eventually air condition it.

This week will be slow, as we are finalizing our adoption on Friday, then taking off to the beach for the weekend; so, plenty to do in anticipation of those two events.

As far as the TriTon, I still need to re-orient the kickstarter gear on it's shaft to yield at least 180 degrees of engagement, then re-index the 5-speed box (must have missed a tooth on the quadrant). Not much more besides servicing all the fluids then giving it the heave-ho.
 
Sorry about all the photos missing, I lost track and need to replace them since my old photo hosting site is long gone.

I'll get to it soon...
 
I'll start at the end, to avoid the suspense. This is the bike's present condition...

TRITON, at last...
 
I can tell you that the Manx engines were also used in classic British motorcycles, specifically the Norton Manx. This iconic motorcycle was a successful racing machine in the 1950s and 1960s, and is still highly regarded by motorcycle enthusiasts today.
Pretty close, the Manx engines were used in F3(?) cars, Dominator engines were simply clapped out in most cases and short of the chassis' capabilities (although abut on par with the stock brakes!)
 
Thirty years ahead of its time , ;)

TRITON, at last...


or is that 40 .

another famous ' lemon ' .
TRITON, at last...
still in production untill aroud 2000 , in yer Rover Ranger .

Same piece of paper . Wasnt just Holden & Fords underwear that was dirty .
TRITON, at last...


1970 4.4 L Twin Cam ( s o h c per head ) James Smith ! 1970 trans tasman series . Gotcha .
TRITON, at last...


Wont Metion the P38 weighd wotta Cortina 2 Litre DID . Same Weight . Double the output .

TRITON, at last...


They'll FIT in a TRITON ( F'Bed ) TOO . :p

TRITON, at last...


Probly best to use the Indy Motor , Anyone gotta spare one ? .

TRITON, at last...


 
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TRITON, at last...

Repco RB760 4.2 litre ‘Indy’ V8 (Repco)

Rignals used modded B.O.P. G.M. Blocks ( First Grand Prix motors ) 215 Cu In / 3500 cc . Will Seven Manxes Do ? . Eight and a bit , in the RB 760 , if anyones got a spare one , lemme know willya . :):)
 
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