TRITON, at last...

grandpaul · Jul 2, 2012

Installed the basic engine block in the frame and nipped it in place. Got anxious and decided to shoot a quick pic remembering that I never took a shot of the tank on the rolling mock-up; not too shabby!

Installed the new chain (cut 2 links from a 110 link chain) and sure enough, PERFECT alignment with just a tad of swingarm clearance at the starting point to allow for max chain wear. (no photo)

Turns out I'm going to use the fancier set of barrels after all; the other two cast alloy sets need the cases hogged out to fit the bigger spigots. I wasn't real thrilled about the thick polished fins and the overall shape of the barrels matching the profile of the head, but it's growing on me...

Foxy · Jul 3, 2012

grandpaul said:
Foxy said:

Edjamakate me on the 3204 etc please, Im assuming its still cad plate?

Click to expand...

My address is 3304 Frost St.

Box was delivered to 3204 Frost St.

Simple mistake, but no phone call, no apology, no follow up, NOTHING from UPS.

Mmmm...... miss inturp'd that!! Didnt think anyone would put their address out here for all sorts to read!
I had a parcel deliverd to the wrong address, only a 6 hour drive away. I never recieved it but the company sent me another in its place,,, eventually!
I see GP you have placed the side stand about as far back as you can get it on the frame, my way of thinking would be to place it in between the gearbox/trans motor for a better balance as far as weight distribution goes? Interference with pipes etc is a governing factor though!
foxy

grandpaul · Jul 3, 2012

2-into-1 pipe on the right was the primary idea, it's out there alright!

wilkey113 · Jul 3, 2012

Wondering if you can tell me what year the frame is from.
Also curious if the rear wheel is a WM2 or WM3
Thanks
Jeff

Lurkingclass · Jul 3, 2012

That's going to be a cool bike- I'm digging the Webco/MPD? finned primary cover. Not sure if you figured out what to do for exhaust yet, but check these guys out- they make some really nice reverse cone megs, as well as open megs and cocktail shakers- all in stainless steel for a pretty reasonable price.

http://www.coneeng.com/motorcycle_components.html

Let me know if you need any Triumph parts..

grandpaul · Jul 4, 2012

It's a '66 featherbed frame and a '66 Bonnie engine.

Front wheel WM2-19 w/ 90/90-19 tire, rear WM3-18 w/ 110/90-18 tire.

I already have the exhaust system.

grandpaul · Jul 4, 2012

What better way to spend a 4th of July than fitting up a set of Tarozzi adjustable rearsets to your Triton project?

(not finished with the shifter shaft, this one is just a mock-up)

Mark · Jul 4, 2012

grandpaul said:
What better way to spend a 4th of July than fitting up a set of Tarozzi adjustable rearsets to your Triton project?

Yep!
Nothing says "Happy Birthday America" like bolting Italian parts on a British motorcycle! :lol:

But seriously.......
That's a primo motorsickle that you are building. The cylinders are different, I am interested to see what
the engine looks like when it's all bolted together.

grandpaul · Jul 6, 2012

Installed new main gear bearing and nipped it in place with a new locktab washer (I had reservations about that used bearing)

Installed 5-speed cluster; fiddled and fussed 'till i realized I needed to retain the shouldered 4-speed shift fork spindle-

Outer cover installed easily using the 1st gear setup-

Installed timing pinions & oil pump-

Just noticed I need one of the two oil gallery sleeves for the timing cover...

grandpaul · Jul 7, 2012

Installed the shift pawl assembly and split clutch actuator rod with tiny bearing in between, slid the cover in place and installed a new clutch cable-

Installing the belt drive primary wasn't much more work than a standard chain drive, but took a litle extra time shimming the alternator rotor-

The belt seems a bit loose, but I can't twist it 90 degrees with my fingers at the center of either run, so should be okay.

Clutch lever is nice and buttery.

This project is finally picking up steam.

grandpaul · Jul 7, 2012

What a lot of fuss to get the pistons & cylinders installed!

-Cleaned up the piston crowns with a Dremel wire wheel
-Dug through ring assortment to locate stray top ring of the correct type & size
-Checked ring end gaps (all fine), installed rings
-Washed cylinders after honing
-Polished cam follower (tappet) stems to make sure they were totally free in the guide block bores
-Reamed one rod small end bushing to better fit piston pin
-Used allthread rod and large washers to draw pins into pistons
-Installed fiddly snap ring circlips
-Installed base gasket
-Set up ring compressor bands
-Gently lowered cylinders in place
-Realized the two original stud sleeves were not accomodated for on the M.A.P. cylinders, had to lift them up slightly to remove the sleeves, lowered back down
-Sorted 8 matching nuts and installed.

Now the top end is on hold 'till I locate the single missing alloy split lock keeper; oh, well, plenty of other stuff to do.

cjandme · Jul 7, 2012

Coming along nicely, I like those barrels and think it will help to set your build apart. Cj

grandpaul · Jul 8, 2012

Didn't do much today but mock-up to check fit / interference of various parts.

Oil tank is going to work great, 2-into-1 header is not.

These pipes with these rearsets might be great for long winter road trips to keep my feet warm, otherwise, a re-work is in order. maybe i'll check out the scrambler pipes after all...

I need to source 4 really small screws that hold the velocity stack necks onto the carbs, as well at some fine thread intakes, the pair I have are coarse thread.

Turns out the MAP cylinders take different head bolts, so I need to order a set of those as well.

I did manage to assemble the rockers to the rockerboxes, and do have 4 brand new correct corner bolts and all the little studs and nuts for those.

I'm going to have to fabricate a head steady bracket to interface with the Dresda bit, the cheesy bit of angle aluminum that came in the kit is absolute rubbish. It's about 1" too short, and will only allow fixing to ONE head stud! I've got a design for two plates that will each hit 2 studs, and sandwich the main Dresda plate with 2 bolts.

grandpaul · Jul 9, 2012

It's timing time.

Set the crank at 38 degrees BTDC using the flywheel cutout tool-

Confirmed with the pointer on the alternator rotor mark-

Installed the unit per the instructions-

Also installed the Sparx regulator/rectifier-

Looks like I'm going to need to stand the primary cover off at least 1/4" to clear the hunky MAP primary...

Oh, yes, note to anyone installing Dresda Triton engine adapter plates - install the transmission drain plug assembly before placing the engine in the cradle. The right side plate sits immediately below the drain/level plug location! You'll also have to crop the level plug about 1/4" to get it in and out of there for checking the tranny lube level.

grandpaul · Jul 10, 2012

Took a pair of OEM manifolds and chopped the ends of the flanges off-

Turned them down in the lathe-

Ready for the MkII carb spigots!

The lip sits perfectly in the inner recess of the rubber spigot with the clamp compressing it nicely. I did have to cut a V-notch in each one to clear the balance tubes.

grandpaul · Jul 17, 2012

Mounted the dual coil just ahead of the head, using the lower lip of the Dresda head steady plate; that completes the electronic ignition system-

I had this combo switch set aside for my '63 T-Bird street tracker, but that project is so far off I figured this was a better project to employ it on-

I had considered using an old style horn/dipper, then decided against it. It's hard to find decent quality classic electrical bits, it seems.

Speaking of which, I've sunk to a new low, using the cheesy tail lights that 90% of the world uses-

...mounted to what used to be a front fender. I dug around and found this one that matched the circuimference of the rear wheel; used a Triumph top fender strap and it fit perfectly.

grandpaul · Jul 17, 2012

Fabbed up a simple electrical panel that hides under the gas tank, every circuit fused in a 6-fuse box with a 30 amp main breaker (auto reset), and horn relay-

Let there be light!

Other than integrating some brake light switches, the electrics are done.

Webby03 · Jul 17, 2012

Looks Great GPZ, I'm jealous!

Great minds must think alike, I was planning on doing the same with my headsteady (if I ever get the time, which, yet again is sadly lacking).

Keep up the good work!

All the best

Webby

grandpaul · Jul 19, 2012

Very little I can do 'till my friend gets home and I can get back on his lathe, so just a few more details done...

Got in oil tank fittings and cables, plus other miscellaeous stuff-

Cockpit complete!

Managed to adapt the classic Triumph steering damper knob setup, it was almost plug & play, just had to locate a little spacer for the tension plate fixing bolt.

Oil tank is mounted, but I didn't get a shot of that.

I really need to get on the lathe, I'm forced to actually fabricate a single alloy split lock keeper for the titanium valve spring collet; one came up missing and it simply can't be replaced without buying an entire new collet & keeper set. Also, I still need to turn down the front hubs 1/4" on each side and get the front wheel mounted. Fork stiction problems all pointed to that and are now cured.

Bernhard · Jul 19, 2012

grandpaul said:
I'm going to have to fabricate a head steady bracket to interface with the Dresda bit, the cheesy bit of angle aluminum that came in the kit is absolute rubbish. It's about 1" too short, and will only allow fixing to ONE head stud! I've got a design for two plates that will each hit 2 studs, and sandwich the main Dresda plate with 2 bolts.

Suggest you get in touch with Dresta as they have several versions of plates depending on year/model e.t.c.