Trispark-warranty

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FYI...
Trispark-warranty
 
Yep, I reckon that sums it up, I think the new coil has gone down.
but please I don't want to bog this (interesting) thread down with how to fix my bike, I'm sure I'll sort it.
It's just that it seemed to illustrate the issues being discussed here.
Terry
 
xbacksideslider said:
How does that "tickover stabilization" work? What's the theory?
Click to expand...

I was browsing over Mr. Walker's shop notes and he mentioned a trick he uses to get engines to pass MoT tests.

"Last issue I mentioned some testing I was doing about passing the MoT test. To pass a basic MoT test any modern engine will have to be fitted with a working catalytic converter. The mixture will be set to 14.7 to 1 AFR and either stay there for the duration of the test or "swing" across 14.7 to 1, under a closed loop setting. That's all you can do but it helps to have the throttle open a little on idle by setting the timing to zero degrees BTDC on idle. You can also employ a few tricks to help stabilise the rpm at the test point. For example: at 2500rpm (which is the fast idle test area) you can advance the timing at that point and retard it significantly either side of 2500rpm. The timing tends to "suck" the engine into staying at 2500rpm as the power drops away either side of that point. This is a very good reason for having map-switching, as the engine will not want to drive very nicely set up like that."

If this is true then the peaks represent the rpm chosen for idle on the EI's that have idle stabilization. Trispark's isn't too bad Boyer's is pretty low considering it's been brought up that it's a good idea to keep the idle close to 1000rpm's for oil supply.

His writing about intake tract length is great. I'm sure there's something in there for exhaust primary length for 2 into 1's.

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/articles/feb2013/
 
rpatton said:
xbacksideslider said:
How does that "tickover stabilization" work? What's the theory?
Click to expand...

I was browsing over Mr. Walker's shop notes and he mentioned a trick he uses to get engines to pass MoT tests.

"Last issue I mentioned some testing I was doing about passing the MoT test. To pass a basic MoT test any modern engine will have to be fitted with a working catalytic converter. The mixture will be set to 14.7 to 1 AFR and either stay there for the duration of the test or "swing" across 14.7 to 1, under a closed loop setting. That's all you can do but it helps to have the throttle open a little on idle by setting the timing to zero degrees BTDC on idle. You can also employ a few tricks to help stabilise the rpm at the test point. For example: at 2500rpm (which is the fast idle test area) you can advance the timing at that point and retard it significantly either side of 2500rpm. The timing tends to "suck" the engine into staying at 2500rpm as the power drops away either side of that point. This is a very good reason for having map-switching, as the engine will not want to drive very nicely set up like that."

If this is true then the peaks represent the rpm chosen for idle on the EI's that have idle stabilization. Trispark's isn't too bad Boyer's is pretty low considering it's been brought up that it's a good idea to keep the idle close to 1000rpm's for oil supply.

His writing about intake tract length is great. I'm sure there's something in there for exhaust primary length for 2 into 1's.

http://www.emeraldm3d.com/articles/feb2013/
Click to expand...

I think that it is designed to "pick up" the revs if the idle drops below a certain revs, helpful if you had a bike such as a commando with worn carbs that does not idle reliably. Helps stopping stalling etc etc. tave the same system on the Boyer digital systems for BMWs that usually don't need it.
 
I installed a Tri-spark 8 months ago in my MK III. It failed within 4000 miles. So I have to assume it was the updated version, they have offered a replacement. I do not think I am comfortable with an ignition with a high failure rate even if they send me a new one.
 
12gs said:
I installed a Tri-spark 8 months ago in my MK III. It failed within 4000 miles. So I have to assume it was the updated version, they have offered a replacement. I do not think I am comfortable with an ignition with a high failure rate even if they send me a new one.
Click to expand...
I got mine replaced and was also hesitant to trust it...I spoke with Steve and got an extra unit very cheap to carry as a spare just in case..
 
I don't have experience with Trispark, but I think that what is required for a modern aftermarket ignition to work reliably is

To fit coils of the correct resistance and check that they are correct
To fit spark leads and caps to the resistance species by the ignition manufacturer.
Ensure that the ignition is always powered up, so no dodgy ignition switches or ignition cut out switches.
Ensure that the system is properly earthed.
Fitting an ignition to a hacked about 40 year old wiring loom, is probably not going to work well or reliably.
 
1up3down said:
MY own issue with my Trispark very early after purchase was due to a lack of sufficient grounds, both from the motor to frame, and I also put another ground on the positive battery terminal and grounded its ass
to the frame, since then absolutely no trispark/ignition problems.
Click to expand...

are you running a single or dual coil set up? I'm curious because the head grounding issue is something I'm still unsure about. With a dual output coil (Dyna etc..), I have heard two arguments regarding the need for a separate ground wire to the head. Since there's no polarity on the coil itself, would it be correct to assume that the current follows a path starting from the coil terminal that the tri spark lead attaches to, across the head, and then to the opposite coil terminal (the one going to ground)?
 
acadian said:
I'm curious because the head grounding issue is something I'm still unsure about. With a dual output coil (Dyna etc..), I have heard two arguments regarding the need for a separate ground wire to the head. Since there's no polarity on the coil itself, would it be correct to assume that the current follows a path starting from the coil terminal that the tri spark lead attaches to, across the head, and then to the opposite coil terminal (the one going to ground)?
Click to expand...

The coil (single or dual) primary needs a 'ground' return to the battery, but the dual coil secondary uses the head to complete the circuit between the two plugs, so the dual secondary doesn't require a ground connection to the battery.

Trispark-warranty


However, unlike most other electronic ignition systems, the Tri-Spark Classic Twin module is installed inside the points housing and the module needs a ground connection to the battery, therefore the Tri-Spark Classic twin requires a ground wire from the engine regardless of the coil type.
 
L.A.B. said:
acadian said:
I'm curious because the head grounding issue is something I'm still unsure about. With a dual output coil (Dyna etc..), I have heard two arguments regarding the need for a separate ground wire to the head. Since there's no polarity on the coil itself, would it be correct to assume that the current follows a path starting from the coil terminal that the tri spark lead attaches to, across the head, and then to the opposite coil terminal (the one going to ground)?
Click to expand...

The coil (single or dual) primary needs a 'ground' return to the battery, but the dual coil secondary uses the head to complete the circuit between the two plugs, so the dual secondary doesn't require a ground connection to the battery.

Trispark-warranty


However, unlike most other electronic ignition systems, the Tri-Spark Classic Twin module is installed inside the points housing and the module needs a ground connection to the battery, therefore the Tri-Spark Classic twin requires a ground wire from the engine regardless of the coil type.
Click to expand...

Interesting, attempting to diagnose what I "think" is a slightly weak primary side spark, that's why I was curious about a possible resistance issue through the head and between the plugs. I've run my trispark / dual output coil setup both with a ground to the head and without, haven't noticed any difference. Right now there's no ground wire to the head.
 
acadian said:
Interesting, attempting to diagnose what I "think" is a slightly weak primary side spark, that's why I was curious about a possible resistance issue through the head and between the plugs.
Click to expand...

Unlikely I would think, but you could try wiring the plug bodies together.



acadian said:
I've run my trispark / dual output coil setup both with a ground to the head and without, haven't noticed any difference. Right now there's no ground wire to the head.
Click to expand...

Isolastics don't just isolate vibration but are also poor conductors of electricity and is why a 'ground' (return) connection is normally used, however, that doesn't necessarily mean the ignition won't work without one, but could mean something like the clutch cable is acting as the engine ground for the Tri-Spark module!
 
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