Latest TriSpark EI

Derek Wilson said:
Okay, before you write me completely off as a brainless, ham-fisted hack, please install one of the new ones and get back to me. ;)

Mind you, I find your confidence inspirational. :)
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Didn't mean to insult, just trying to be helpful.
 
Compared to my original directional one I have had fitted for ages and a good many mile, the new ambidextrous version needed more rotation to get the led to illuminate despite accurate positioning of the rotor. However, I quickly refitted the original back on to what what looked like the original marks and surprisingly it also was slightly off to where it was originally, the careful positioning of the rotor seems to be the key.
The one version that I know of where it started but would not rev well, the air gap was just over 3mm. This kit is now running nicely on another Commando.
Why do some tighten the pillar post bolts to within an inch of their lives and crush the backplate, spotted today on one of the kits tested - I just nip mine up and not had them loosen.
The testing I did today gives a failure rate of 1 for all the kits I have sold (numerous) and half a dozen I have fitted (the one kit was fitted by its owner to a long standing bike that would hardly fire using a roller starter - it burnt out the stator suggesting problems elsewhere) which proves they must be fitted correctly, which for a MK3 is a doddle, but as I found out today accuracy is key, those using the scale in the primary cover and rotor mark may well end up having to slightly re-position the rotor if they are dead set on getting stator set mid slot for looks.
I use two 6v PVL coils, 14 Amp hour battery and Tri Spark rectifier, wire wound moulded HT leads, NGK Iridium plugs, so nothing different to what most other owners use. The loom is original, but I keep a check on it and the other thing to remember is that it is no point having the best wiring to the services and loads if the earth return path is neglected - always worth checking and cleaning earth connectors and ground positions.
 
I have never used a Trispark, but I know the position of the magnet on the rotor of my Boyer in relation to the pick-up, where the spark occurs. I set it up visually and if I get keen I strobe with as degree disc and timing light. I never use timing marks for anything.
 
Madnorton said:
Compared to my original directional one I have had fitted for ages and a good many mile, the new ambidextrous version needed more rotation to get the led to illuminate despite accurate positioning of the rotor. However, I quickly refitted the original back on to what what looked like the original marks and surprisingly it also was slightly off to where it was originally, the careful positioning of the rotor seems to be the key.
The one version that I know of where it started but would not rev well, the air gap was just over 3mm. This kit is now running nicely on another Commando.
Why do some tighten the pillar post bolts to within an inch of their lives and crush the backplate, spotted today on one of the kits tested - I just nip mine up and not had them loosen.
The testing I did today gives a failure rate of 1 for all the kits I have sold (numerous) and half a dozen I have fitted (the one kit was fitted by its owner to a long standing bike that would hardly fire using a roller starter - it burnt out the stator suggesting problems elsewhere) which proves they must be fitted correctly, which for a MK3 is a doddle, but as I found out today accuracy is key, those using the scale in the primary cover and rotor mark may well end up having to slightly re-position the rotor if they are dead set on getting stator set mid slot for looks.
I use two 6v PVL coils, 14 Amp hour battery and Tri Spark rectifier, wire wound moulded HT leads, NGK Iridium plugs, so nothing different to what most other owners use. The loom is original, but I keep a check on it and the other thing to remember is that it is no point having the best wiring to the services and loads if the earth return path is neglected - always worth checking and cleaning earth connectors and ground positions.
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It is not really that much of a bother for me, as I use a timing light to check it. The bike in question is running great with its new TriSpark and the owner is very pleased.

I know how I will fit the next one now ;)
 
Gerard Rowley said:
Hi Mike I have called into see Steve Kelly at Trispark and discussed this issue of the initial timing set up with this latest Trispark Classic twin ignition system TRI 006.
If the correct instructions are used and followed the LED light will activate when the appropriate CW or AC marks Align, that is as long as you correctly align the rotor as per the instruction. The way they are manufactured and internal components positioned the LED light can only operate in the correct position ie CW or AC
Each Trispark unit manufactured is tested and run on a test rig before being packaged up and sent out to a customer. I have just fitted another one of these latest Trispark Classic twin units to a Commando and the light came on when it lined up with the AC
Steve said that we will make a video of us fitting one to a Commando and we will post the video on his website for peoples reference.
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Thanks Gerard,
Appreciate the reply.Let us know when the video is available. I have a TriSpark and like it but I can always use more knowledge.
Mike
 
Hi all, I am lost here... I have the TriSpark TRI-0005 unit with a mark within the "B CCW" square (not the "A CW" square to be clear here) which tells me I should map my counter clockwise Commando to "B". However, the instructions I am looking at map an "AC" to "A" and the "CW" to "B" which appears to be reversed.

Bike is exactly at 29BTDC (degree wheel confirmation) on compression stroke of left cylinder. Do I go with the "B" or the "A" on this TriSpark EI unit?

EDIT: Amazingly, the TriSpark docs dated April 2021 show a CW unit inserted into a Commando marked for "B."
 
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Jdub said:
Hi all, I am lost here... I have the "A" and "B" unit and a legend on the face of the unit indicating "A CW" and "B CCW" which tells me to map my counter clockwise Commando to "B". However, the instructions I am looking at map an "AC" to "A" and the "CW" to "B" which appears to be reversed.
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Post #3?

Latest TriSpark EI

I picked up a new TriSpark from Walridge last week for a Commando, and Mike told me that they have commonized the CCW and CW pickup rotation models into one product. Great!! Looking at the pickup plate, all of the timing markings are the same, there is just no marking on the decal indicating a...
www.accessnorton.com www.accessnorton.com
 
Jdub said:
Hi all, I am lost here... I have the "A" and "B" unit and a legend on the face of the unit indicating "A CW" and "B CCW" which tells me to map my counter clockwise Commando to "B". However, the instructions I am looking at map an "AC" to "A" and the "CW" to "B" which appears to be reversed.

Bike is exactly at 29BTDC (degree wheel confirmation) on compression stroke of left cylinder. Do I go with the "B" or the "A" on this TriSpark EI unit?

EDIT: Put another way, did TriSpark screw up the markings on the earlier (my) unit, the later unit, or completely redesign this between models?
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Until last year, there was Tri-0005A (Clockwise) and Tri-0005B (Counter Clockwise) The manuals that shipped with them were correct. The new units are Tri-0006 and they can be use for all and the manuals shipped with them are correct.

Where did you get the Tri-0006 manual if you have a Tri-0005B?

If you need the Tri-0005 manual, you can get it here: https://www.trispark.com.au/assets/files/Classic Twin V3 Manual V3.pdf

If you need the Tri-0006 manual, you can get it here: https://www.trispark.com.au/assets/files/TRI-0006 Classic Twin Manual 2021.pdf

Note that the first batch of Tri-0006 had the marks too far apart but they match the manual and following the instruction to the letter you would end up just fine.

The current batches have the marks correct and they are quite a bit closer together.

If still confused, all me 703-200-4025.
 
I feel like Walter White using downloaded instructions for my M60 Cadillac installation...what could go wrong?

Okay, incorrect instructions but thought I could work through it. I have reviewed the earlier docs for the "B" unit and will mark stator plate to B silkscreen line and then line the magnets accordingly. Thank you for bearing with watching my brain work it can get ugly.
 
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