Torque value?

Anybody know the proper torque value for the exhaust rocker cover nuts?

Workshop manual says 100 in/lbs or 8 ft/lbs (1.11 Kg/m)

More important is putting some RTV on the studs themselves because oil will wick up the threads. I use nothing on gaskets and minimal torque on the nuts themselves!

Those are infamous for pulling out w/o getting tight enough to seal using Norton gaskets so worth while to use goop or the thick soft tough silicon gaskets though seems there are two varieties to choose now or make your own. If not tight enough they tend to get loose to see oil mess. Best wishes following the torque valves listed in manual to live with in real life.

bmwbob said:

More important is putting some RTV on the studs themselves because oil will wick up the threads. I use nothing on gaskets and minimal torque on the nuts themselves!

Click to expand...

Thanks- what's RTV?

wjrich said:

Thanks- what's RTV?

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RTV is a silicone seatalnt, usually comes in a tube that you squeeze out onto the surface that you're wanting to seal.....only caution to use with it is to be careful to not use too much. the excess can get pressed out from between the surfaces when mated together and torqued down, (easy enough to wipe off the excess from the outside before it cures), but the potential problem is the excess that oozes to the inside of the engine. Pieces or cured globules can come loose and clog oil passages. After you work with it for a while you get a feel for how much to apply---a little can go a long way. the reference here was just to use a little on the stud threads so that the oil doesnt work its way up the threads and out onto the outside of your cylinder head. Sometimes folks use it in place of a gasket or spread it onto the face of a gasket before buttoning it up..........P.S. I was just looking over the 850 restoration posted by Jed , you can check the thread on "1977 commando rebuild" perfect example on page two I believe it is

Forget the torque wrench on those, finger tight plus about half to one a turn i'd say!

Hobot- do you know who sells the thicker silicone gaskets? i just used the RTV (thanks cjandme) and torqued the cover down, went for a ride, and it's leaking like I never touched it. Does the RTV need time to set up/cure?

You might flat the cover jointing surface. Try them sans gasket and see it
they do indeed sit flat and tight.
Look carefully for where the leak actually issues from.

torque setting on those is: Just Nicely Nipped Firm

forget all those numbers and math stuff

Oh wjrich I know how ya feel about your skill as a Nortoneer and head cocked recoil reaction to read how it should just take finger tight and a bit more on dry gaskets, ugh. I approve of silicon on rocker boxes as pretty easy to reach and not over apply but its a mess to deal with each time in & out, as often as we should, ugh. Of course flat sand covers and flat file across rocker rims and seal stud threads but that may not do it for some of the luck of the draw components. The red sillycon ones I got were like 1/16" thick and fairly soft so double benifit, one seals up gaps real well w/o very tight nuts and two, gasket spring back on compression holds em that so so tightness. I like ~107.5 in lb myself. I got above a dozen or so uses before breaking up some with this early version kind and glad my schizophrenic voices wisely told us when ya'll find something ya really like, better get at least two of em. Should be able to search up silicon gaskets to find posts that mention a thinner tougher set as I will be placing an order again or wait to get filled in here by more up to date Nortoneers. My 2 sets lasted most a decade and nursing the last remains on Trixie. Rocker covers and TS cover are the only 2 places a gasket is really needed in a Commando.

Thought I updated this post, but maybe not.
Installed new gasket on the exhaust rocker cover with a covering of RTV and tightened down the nuts at just under 10 ft/lbs. Took the bike out for a ride, and leaked like I hadn't done anything to it- in fact it may have been a bit worse.
Ordered the silicone gaskets from Rocky Mount (easy to order online, immediate order confirmation, received them via priority mail about 4 days after ordering) and was ready to install before realizing I had a couple of questions.
First, the literature that came with the gaskets said to apply them dry- no RTV-type stuff should be used. Is this correct?
Second, I need to check if the cover is flat. I applied the cover w/o gasket, and it feels almost flat- an almost imperceptible movement. I figure I need to sand flat, but have never done this. I know I need a good piece of glass, but what else? Do I just lay some fine grain sanding paper on the glass and rub the cover around until it checks out as completely flat on the glass?

wjrich said:

Second, I need to check if the cover is flat. I applied the cover w/o gasket, and it feels almost flat- an almost imperceptible movement. I figure I need to sand flat, but have never done this. I know I need a good piece of glass, but what else? Do I just lay some fine grain sanding paper on the glass and rub the cover around until it checks out as completely flat on the glass?

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Yes...you don't really need glass. A good flat surface. 3M sticky backed sandpaper works the best I work for 3M

dennisgb said:

wjrich said:

Second, I need to check if the cover is flat. I applied the cover w/o gasket, and it feels almost flat- an almost imperceptible movement. I figure I need to sand flat, but have never done this. I know I need a good piece of glass, but what else? Do I just lay some fine grain sanding paper on the glass and rub the cover around until it checks out as completely flat on the glass?

Click to expand...

Yes...you don't really need glass. A good flat surface. 3M sticky backed sandpaper works the best I work for 3M

Click to expand...

Thanks- headed ou to garage to give it a try.

I like to glue the paper gaskets to the cover with RTV ((Room Temperature Vulcanizing (rubber)), put a skim coat on the engine side, and as said before use the RTV on the studs and nuts or whatever you put on there to hold the covers on. I use washers and RTV them on. I find them a bear to keep from leaking but once you do, it's nice. Usually you can take them off and re-use if you have a very thin coat on the engine side.

Use high temp and non-acetic RTV. The blue stuff from permatex works.

Dave
69S

I use the silicone gaskets with NO extra sealant of any kind

I also do not tighten as hard as you do

clean the surfaces good and put the gaskets on dry and then tighten the nuts to "firm", that should do it

there is no point in reasoning that tightening real hard extra stands a better chance of no leaks as all
your would be doing is over stretching the threads inside the head and possibly stripping them

1up3down said:

I use the silicone gaskets with NO extra sealant of any kind

there is no point in reasoning that tightening real hard extra stands a better chance of no leaks as all
your would be doing is over stretching the threads inside the head and possibly stripping them

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Or "squishing" the gasket too much. I use a dab of Locktite 242 on the nuts which is removable.

If a valve cover gasket extends beyond the inside of the cover it will create a dam for the oil to pool. Trim the gasket to size. Also, crankcase pressure will force oil out most any place that's not 100% oil tight. Eliminating crankcase pressure will eliminate a lot of oil leaks.

Problem solved.
Made sure both surfaces were clean and dry, installed the silicone gasket from Rocky Mount, finger tightened the bolts then went a half turn further with the wrench.
Was out riding around for 2-3 hours and not a hint of a leak.

:? New issue-
While out riding around on the bike, hit a minor pothole that jarred the forks a bit. Noticed that the high beam indicator on the dash was on. Checked high beam on/off switch and it functions as it is supposed to. Indicator stays lit regardless of on/off position and in 3rd or 4th key position. Electrical stuff really not in my wheelhouse, but am learning. Any easy way to check what the issue may be here?

:? New issue-
While out riding around on the bike, hit a minor pothole that jarred the forks a bit. Noticed that the high beam indicator on the dash was on. Checked high beam on/off switch and it functions as it is supposed to. Indicator stays lit regardless of on/off position and in 3rd or 4th key position. Electrical stuff really not in my wheelhouse, but am learning. Any easy way to check what the issue may be here?[/quote]

The blue with white stripe wire from the high beam indicator light is touching a live lead such as the white wire that is live negative with the ignition switch on number 3 position. Check in in the headlight shell to see if this is the case.