QD rear wheel torque

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ewgoforth

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May 23, 2010
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Hi,

The torque spec of my 1973 Commando's rear wheel is 80 lb ft. I believe that unless otherwise specified torque specs are for clean dry threads.

My rear axle has always been quite greasy from the bearings, speedo drive, etc. I have a non-stainless rear axle, but if it were stainless I'd want non anti-seize on the threads.

At any rate my speedo drives always bulge. I try to keep them greased, but they seem to bulge to the point I want to change them after 10,000 miles, maybe 20,000 tops

I've been torquing my rear wheel to 65 lb ft for a few years to try to give the drives an easier time, but I'm wondering if I should go down to 60 based on a 25% reduction for lubricated threads that I've read. Alternatively, I could try to clean everything well with beake cleaner and torque to 80.

What torque values do you use, and how long do your speedo drives last?

Thanks,
Eric
 
I have never torqued my rear wheel in 48+ years of ownership (74 850) I just tighten the axle tight enough it don't come loose, as for the speedo I am still running the original speedo drive as well cable, I only put a little grease on the drive when the wheel is put back on from tyre change, I have owned my Norton since new and was an everyday rider till 2013 and has clocked up a lot of miles, I still ride it regularly but no longer an everyday ride, am retired now and no longer clocking up the miles it use too as well I have a modern Triumph Thruxton, but the Norton still gets ridden regularly.

Ashley
 
ewgoforth said:
Hi,

The torque spec of my 1973 Commando's rear wheel is 80 lb ft. I believe that unless otherwise specified torque specs are for clean dry threads.

My rear axle has always been quite greasy from the bearings, speedo drive, etc. I have a non-stainless rear axle, but if it were stainless I'd want non anti-seize on the threads.

At any rate my speedo drives always bulge. I try to keep them greased, but they seem to bulge to the point I want to change them after 10,000 miles, maybe 20,000 tops

I've been torquing my rear wheel to 65 lb ft for a few years to try to give the drives an easier time, but I'm wondering if I should go down to 60 based on a 25% reduction for lubricated threads that I've read. Alternatively, I could try to clean everything well with beake cleaner and torque to 80.

What torque values do you use, and how long do your speedo drives last?

Thanks,
Eric
Click to expand...
I use nowhere near 80 ft lbs. I use a standard 3/8" ratchet and pull it tight. Probably 40-45 ft lbs. If stainless, I use nickel anti-seize and still the same which means the actual torque is higher but still not 80 ft lbs. I've never had one come loose or move.

With clean/dry threads you will damage the speedo drive at 80 ft lbs. With lub, at 80ft lbs you're at 90ft lbs or more.

BTW, the workshop manual before the MK3 only say "fully tighten". As best I can tell, Old Britts and AN followed the MK3 workshop manual which does say 80 ft lbs but it also says clean and dry.

The speedo drive can be fixed if not too bad. Take out the removable parts, lay it on a vice, put a drift or socket a little bigger than the hole on it, and a nice hammer hit and it will straighten.

Most speedo drives I use are original. I bought a large collection of "bad" ones and have been checking/fixing/cleaning/mixing and matching for a long time. I have straightened many. About half of them are actually junk due to the gears but even they often have good felt or the big washer. Unfortuantely I recently used my last on for Norton and only have a couple for Triumph left :(
 
For new folks, there have been a few (can snap in 2 at the beginning of the threads end area) rear axle failures, i believe member 'madass' has an upgrade
 

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