Torque spec for double banjo bolt???

Does anyone know what the torque should be for the "double banjo " bolts used for the stainless rocker feed oil lines? The stock "single" bolts get 180inch pounds (15 ft ) which is what I torqued all mine to a long time ago but when I re-installed the double banjo bolt with that torque the bolt snapped in half leaving the threads in the hole. Thank god for east outs! I'm thinking the doubles are not as strong & maybe should only get 8 to 10 ft pounds ? It was one of the chromed bolts & choroming can weaken steel I think. I have since ordered a set of stainless ones from Oldbritts in a atempt to stay away from the chrome. Not to mention I like the look better.

Gtsun, you have exactly repeated my own learning curve on long banjo bolt that led to another of my 'blank Brit Iron dumbfounded staring states'. Except mine was not chromed into hydrogen brittleness. I had to get Al washers and use more care to nip up oil tight next time. The copper washers even bright cherry red annealed still took just a bit too much torque to seal than I could get away with on double banjo. So modify down grade you torque level on next attempt is best i can offer. Mine snapped off a bit proud of the head and w/o clamp force was easy to back out. What I've gone to now is a single banjo ring with two barbs so shorter bolt to take more umphf on. Also by drilling across spindle shaft oil can get to both sides by one head feed.

As hobot says be careful with these. I snug mine up shy of spec, then tighten to seal as it while the bike is running. It's the copper washers that seals. Heat them up to glow bright and quench in water when ever you take them apart or prior to re assembly. They will be nice and soft to squish to seal.
Remember, stainless and aluminum can be incompatable. The softest material needs the consideration. Many a thread have been stripped or fuses together by people thinking they can make things tighter just because the use stainless.
The place to use stainless is on stainless or steel, not soft alloys.

For softest copper state do not quench fast as thermal shocks and work hardens some what again. Real world torque is what ever seals and not break.
Next I nip up my banjos I'm cheating with a smear of Hylomar.

by hobot » Mon Jan 17, 2011 7:14 pm

For softest copper state do not quench fast as thermal shocks and work hardens some what again. Real world torque is what ever seals and not break.
Next I nip up my banjos I'm cheating with a smear of Hylomar.

Click to expand...

At 32 buck-o-runies + shipping for 3.5 oz. of Hylomar, would anyone know of an Alternative? I must say though, it would be nice having a 600 degree F top heat range sealant when the stuff is at the hottest spot on the engine, assuming it's not on fire.

At 32 buck-o-runies + shipping for 3.5 oz. of Hylomar, would anyone know of an Alternative? I must say though, it would be nice having a 600 degree F top heat range sealant when the stuff is at the hottest spot on the engine, assuming it's not on fire.[/quote]


Where are you shopping? You can get it at automotive/farm stores and online here.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HYLOMAR- ... ccessories

Thanks Bwolfie, I guess I should shop around more.

Ugh, I'd try same stuff you you on head or cases then as only needs a thin layer trapped to seal imperfections before bolt ugh snaps. Heck metalic spray paint might work. That's ancient trick for head gaskets.

Yes pvisseriii I will be careful with the stainless, the main reason for that was I think the chrome process is weakening the other bolts so I opted to go plain stainless. And I like the look better too. So here is what I've come up with so far. Oldbritts says use a aluminum washer next to the head, possibly with a lite smear of ultra grey or Hylomar. I guess Aluminum is softer & seals better there. I will try less torque then the stock 15 ft pounds ( 180 in pounds ) I will try 8 ft pounds & see. Go up from there if needed. Sound good to you guys?