Torque Spec for the Sump Filter Body Nut - Mk3

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rick in seattle

rick in seattle

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Hi Guys,

My Mk3 has an enormous nut (1-1/4") on the sump filter body at the bottom of the crankcase. Do any of you know the torque spec for this nut? It does not appear in either the workshop manual nor Fred Eaton's torque guide. I'm at the end of my rebuild, and, with new washers, the sump filter is dripping oil.
 

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I'll look and report back if I find a spec. Posting at present just to suggest a little teflon paste thread sealer (or teflon tape, but I think the paste works better) on those leaking threads.
 
Thanks, Brian

I'll drain the sump tomorrow morning and cover the threads with a few layers of teflon tape. Judging from the size of the thread (humongous) I would think that 30 ft-lbs would be conservative, even in an aluminum crankcase. Still, if you fnd anything on a real spec between now and then (Ok, I realize it is near midnight in Boston), let me know.

Thanks Again
 
I always thought there was a copper washer there if so aneal and reinstall .. teflon tape is not a sealant heat copper washer till red cool in water this makes copper ring soft and will seal better.
 
Not having a socket large enought to fit . I torque mine with a reasonabley sharp two taps with a hammer and cold chisel. undoing it is the same . Mine has a copper washer and has never leaked touch wood
 
Some Norton spares suppliers sell a copper crush washer which seals well with just a light nip up, but can only be used once. I use an aluminium washer purchased from a local agricultural spares shop, which is cheaper. :)
 
I believe there were a couple different washers used here over the years. One was copper and one was nylon. In any event I would replace this, they are around a buck from most Norton parts dealers. Teflon tape works well with pipe threads, but is not very effective on straight threads.
 
Skoti said:
Some Norton spares suppliers sell a copper crush washer which seals well with just a light nip up, but can only be used once. I use an aluminium washer purchased from a local agricultural spares shop, which is cheaper. :)
Click to expand...

As Doxford mentioned in a few posts above, the copper washer can be anealed again and reused but I'm not sure how many times that can be done with the same washer.
 
Hi Coco,

The copper crush washers I refer to, when fitted and tightened up crush to the shape of the drain plug and crankcase. they are slightly oval in cross section and inside contain asbestos type fibre. They are only designed to be used once.

The normal copper washers you refer to can be anealed and used again, but I find them a bit hard to seal and prefer the above or the softer aluminium washers.

Down to personal choice I guess. :)
 
I've always used the composite crush washers. To be honest I re-use mine with just a small smeer of silicone round the thread before application. They don't leak.

As to torque, I use the same box spanner as for the fork nuts and tighten them to 'that and a bit more' - A light nip and then a further tweak, something like a spark plug with a crush washer.

If in doubt, you can drill and lockwire to the magnetic drain plug but I haven't lost one yet.
 
Thanks to all for your input. As the copper crush washer was new, I added a few wraps of teflon tape (an excellent thread lubricant, irrespective of its sealing capabilities; it easily takes crankcase temperatures) and torqued it to 30 ft-lbs. Leak has disappeared.
 
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