The P11 thread

Status
Not open for further replies.
Paul Webb said:
Are these rear mudguard/fender available? They look very similar to a Commando profile? If so can they be modified to suit?
All the best, Paul.

The profile is almost identical to the Commando - they're both 5" 'C' profile with a rolled edge. I'm not sure if you can rework a Commando fender due to the holes for the tail light assembly and the bracket that fits over the frame loop. The Ranger fender has the 5 holes to mount the fender and 3 holes for the tail light assembly (2 for the bolts and 1 for the wires, all in a line down the middle of the fender). Mike at Walridge may have a Ranger reproduction fender, otherwise I guess you can get a blank and modify it. From the factory, only the sides were rolled. The front and back were both just cut, with no rolling or reinforcing of the edge.
 
worntorn said:
I don't think anything from that era is on par with the Commando for smoothness.

Did the factory or anyone ever make a offroad Commando with the nice looks of the Ranger and benefits of the isolastics?
 
elefantrider said:
Did the factory or anyone ever make a offroad Commando with the nice looks of the Ranger and benefits of the isolastics?

The Commando 'R', which was a '69 model, mimicked some of the look of the Ranger, and was described as a street scrambler. It was the first non-fastback Commando. It had the early low silencers.
The P11 thread


Later in '69 and continuing into 1970 is the Commando 'S'. This bike looked more the part with the high pipes
The P11 thread


In Early '71 they came out with the Commando 'SS'. This looked like a true scrambler, but didn't sell and was killed after just a few months. I think many leftovers were converted to Hi-Riders, as they shared the same gas tank.
The P11 thread


The look of the Ranger is best matched by the Commando Roadster, which came out in 1970. The triangular side covers and upswept pipes are a direct copy of the P11A and Ranger
The P11 thread


P11A:
The P11 thread


None of these Commandos was a good scrambler, as the scramblers had pretty much all gone over to 2-strokes by 1970. Why go trail riding on a 420-lb 4-stroke when you could take a 220-lb 2-stroke?

2-strokes are why the P11 series came about. The G85 Matchless was outclassed by 2-strokes in the 500cc division from the time it debuted. Using the same chassis with a 750 motor gave the machine a new life. Somewhere around 100 G85s were made. 2500 P11s were produced in a 20-month lifespan. In racing trim, P11s were about 360 lbs - over 100 lbs heavier than, say, a 360 Jawa, but had a big torque advantage.
 
hobot said:
The P!!'s would not of weighted no 360 lb in race trim.

Several sources quote 345 lbs dry. add 3 pints of oil and 2 gallons of gas, you're at 360.

I saw a Ranger motor in a Trackmaster frame that weighed about 320 lbs, but that, in my opinion, is not a P11.
 
Regarding the forks on my 67 P11 #121567. I have read the information regarding the offroad vs. on-road springs, etc. My bike has the original parts for the off-road setup. Having never ridden a P11, how important is it that I do this swap? If I am riding at most 55 or 60 mph on the road, will it be a problem with the offroad setup? It looks like I can get the springs and collars to do the swap through Waldridge. I havent found the tubes yet though (#022890). Does anyone know a source for these? Also, the only diagram I have shows the road setup. If you have the off-road setup, should you have the rubber buffers (#016148) in there? I don't seem to have those.
 
johnsiii88 said:
Regarding the forks on my 67 P11 #121567. I have read the information regarding the offroad vs. on-road springs, etc. My bike has the original parts for the off-road setup. Having never ridden a P11, how important is it that I do this swap? If I am riding at most 55 or 60 mph on the road, will it be a problem with the offroad setup? It looks like I can get the springs and collars to do the swap through Waldridge. I havent found the tubes yet though (#022890). Does anyone know a source for these? Also, the only diagram I have shows the road setup. If you have the off-road setup, should you have the rubber buffers (#016148) in there? I don't seem to have those.

The following is word-for-word right out of the P11 operator's manual:

Machines fitted with scrambles front fork suspension units are NOT suitable for high-speed road use.
Machines with the following engine numbers are fitted with scrambles suspension units when they left the factory:-

Engine numbers up to 124370 but excluding 122572: 122792: 122938: 122939: 122940: 122950: 122988 to 123012.



I believe I got my fork tubes through Mike at Walridge. They're the same as all AMC bikes with Teledraulics and the later 1-1/4" tubes (in other words, not including the Norton-engined G15s or 33s). If he doesn't have them, you can try AMC Classic Spares in England, or DomiRacer in Ohio.
 
grandpaul said:
DomiRacer is in liquidation; are they still selling to end users?


I don't know. Their website is still up, so I would think so.
 
Looks like for Domiracer you have to go through Liquid Asset Partners now. They have an inventory and price list that I downloaded. Don't see the Fork Damper Tubes on the list but there are a few other items I might need. They are apparently taking offers on anything on the list.
 
The tubes I need (I think) are the fork damper tubes 022890. Last I checked, Waldridge did not have any. My fork parts mostly seem ok but to switch to the on-road setup I believe I need to purchase these:
022369 Main Springs (2)
022890 Fork damper tubes (2)
022079 Buffer springs (2)
022021 Buffer-spring collars (2)

then I also need:
021785/021786 – leather washers
017357 – Rod for Fork Damper (one of mine is pretty rusty)
014355 – rubber ring
016148 rubber buffers
028051 – extensions (wouldnt mind a new pair. Mine are scratched up)
 
John,

Would be interested to hear how you went with this. I am looking at redoing my front forks and it looks like I too have the scrambler set up (121531) - getting a suspension shop to rebuild but may help to give them something to work off.

Does anyone have pictures of the two different set up or do they appear identical externally?

Huw
 
hrwat1 said:
John,

Would be interested to hear how you went with this. I am looking at redoing my front forks and it looks like I too have the scrambler set up (121531) - getting a suspension shop to rebuild but may help to give them something to work off.

Does anyone have pictures of the two different set up or do they appear identical externally?

Huw

They appear identical externally.
 
I am still trying to find a pair of the fork damper tubes (022890). I think I have found all other rebuild parts but I haven't located a set of these yet.
 
Hmmm....seems like a common theme, I am also waiting on parts (fork tubes/stanchions) - hopefully they will be in sometime this week or next.

On another note, does anyone have the offset details for the front/rear wheels of the P11?
I made the mistake of taking them apart for cleaning etc without first taking measurements. I will be getting them relaced and refinished professionally but will need to give them this information.

Huw
 
I was able to find all of the fork parts I needed to convert my P11 offroad forks to the road setup from AMC Classic Spares (www.amcclassicspares.com). Steven was very helpful in answering my questions. He also sent me a nice diagram of the rear wheel assembly.
 
The two best sites for P11 or G15/N15 parts are Walridge in Ontario and AMC Classic Spares in England (Beds).

Mike at Walridge is the best source for the replica stuff, like handlebars, exhaust systems and skid plates, and the Norton bits. He is quite the expert on the G15/N15 machines. Steve is the best source for the Matchless bits, like steering dampers, P11 forks and seals, bearings and races, stuff like that.

Steve at AMC Classic Spares is the best source for the AMC stuff. When I was doing my Ranger, I needed an axle for the front wheel. I looked for six months through various sources before I found Steve. He had one on the shelf, and it was at my door within 2 weeks. AMC interim front axles are really complicated, with about 4 different radii, two different threads and a lip. It would have been hundreds to replicate. The NOS axle cost me 51 GBP.

On my current project, Steve has supplied me with about 20 different pieces, the most critical being the swing arm pivot tube. Not only did he have it in stock, it was about 12 GBP (plus another fiver to ship).
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top