The P11 thread

[p400]

this must be an old original P11A seat base I have pictured above, as a compare with a new reproduction shows same size and all.

 

[BillT]

Yes, those are both P11A seats. What look like rubber bumpers at the back are actually stud mounts. Those studs line up with the holes on the flat parts of the crossover

 

[p400]

Anyone know the status of Clint Eastwood's P11A Norton ULE 77F?

 

[p400]

Trying to find 1967 photos of original P11 , I came across Morton archives

 

[p400]

RoadTest#3, 90 mile trip for lunch, easy start, rear shocks a little stiff for road use, will revalve, not sure about speedo calibration, rev counter working well, lights all working well, horn stopped working, brakes very good, small seep from primary.
Country road with one lane wooden bridge.

 

[Rohan]

rear shocks a little stiff for road use, will revalve,

Those springs look a little hefty ?

Great photo, handsome bike.

 

[p400]

Yes, new rear springs are a little too heavy.
I have not altered the front forks at all. I thought it best to try out what was here first. Simply drained and refilled with 20W fork oil.
Cell phone cameras are fantastic............Nov 7, 2014 2pm country road wooden bridge....great ride.

 

[elefantrider]

Finally got P11/124888 running after a long rest, engine apart. A big thanks out to Jerry Kaplan who did the work.
Here is Jer waking up the beast....and his neighbors :

[video]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PRuxQuM5GLM[/video]

 

[jerrykap]

Thanks for posting this elefantrider...it seems to be something I haven't been able to do on this forum.

This was a fun project from start to finish and I'm very happy that you're crazy in love with your new hobby.

All the best, Jer

Finally got P11/124888 running after a long rest, engine apart. A big thanks out to Jerry Kaplan who did the work.
Here is Jer waking up the beast....and his neighbors :

 

[p400]

Great post Jerry and ele, Thanks! Nice to see another back on the road. Any tips on working out the details on getting this roadworthy again?
Tire tread is fantastic....ready for off road...mad max

 

[p400]

here is a spec sheet used for marketing this new P11 in 1967.
A chuckle about differing cams..............the cams were all the same for all models 1963-1967

 

[elefantrider]

For now, staying with the rat bike/preservation look, instead of making pretty like p400's, which looks really great btw, might go that route after time, but going to thrash on it first. Haven't began to clean it yet, everything is in original paint. Pipes were missing so I got an un-chromed set, just sprayed with high temp clear, might wrap in header tape.
Still looking for a few good original parts like a horn, bash plate, tachometer, correct hand controls, and the kill switch needs repair- is shorting out the fuse. Coming from the Commando world, it is a different beast and I will need to get a workshop manual soon to finish sorting things out. Next project is to check the condition of the forks, brakes, wheel bearings, seals. Will post more pics soon, back here or a new thread.

 

[p400]

Elefant, Looks likes you have manifold extensions between head and Amals....how about some photos of your details at this point.

 

[elefantrider]

Elefant, Looks likes you have manifold extensions between head and Amals....how about some photos of your details at this point.

Good eye. Yes, it came with commando-type extensions and longer studs. Needed a shorty K&N air cleaner, I doubt an original type would fit although have not tried. Has great mid-range torque. Actually would like to increase bottom end torque so may try removing & testing without them.

 

[BillT]

Elefant, Looks likes you have manifold extensions between head and Amals....how about some photos of your details at this point.

Good eye. Yes, it came with commando-type extensions and longer studs. Needed a shorty K&N air cleaner, I doubt an original type would fit although have not tried. Has great mid-range torque. Actually would like to increase bottom end torque so may try removing & testing without them.

The Atlas came with manifolds about like the ones on your P11. P11 manifolds were maybe 3/4 inch thick, just enough for the nipple for the balance tube.

It is possible to cut an Atlas one down to P11 thickness, but it must be done with precision (as in not a hacksaw in a vise). G15CS/N15CS have that same thin manifold.

 

[p400]

My steering damper was too tight, or at least I thought so. I loosened it up all the way and still no change....too tight.
I took the damper assembly apart, or rather unscrewed all four pieces off top.
The assembly sequence was very strange, so I am asking for an IPB on this steering damper please.
The large black damper knob is last to thread on, so this means the "keyed washer with indents" precedes the knob.
So the question is - how are the double helix spring and chrome cup assembled?
Maybe an IPB from another model Matchless or AJS or Norton?
Maybe this is pictured in an owners manual?

 

[BillT]

If the steering is tight, check the headstock bearings - Careful! They're loose, individual 3/16" ball bearings, I think 28 on top and 28 on bottom. There's a grease fitting on the side of the headstock. The stem has two nuts, the fork crown nut and a locknut, and they're Whitworth. I would suggest just checking the pre-load and the bearings and greasing without taking the steering head apart. If you do, you may as well replace the four races and 56 bearings - all available from AMC Classic Spares.

The damper is a simple friction disc setup. The fricton assembly is on the bottom of the headstock and the adjustment is on the top. The chrome washer first on top of the crown nut, then spring washer, then ratchet washer, topped off with the knob.

If you want a diagram of the forks, go to Jampot.dk and look in the spares section for a parts manual, circa 1960 (the dampers didn't change). Those older AMC manuals have illustrations showing what the various parts looked like, but not necessarily oriented in the way they went together. More like somebody laying the parts out on a sheet arrayed to fit as many as possible in the space provided.

 

[p400]

Thanks Bill, I went to jampot, found ipb, cropped and revised for P11.
The pieces I have in question are the cup 010808 and double helix spring. What is the exact orientation? the cup 010808 was facing up on my initial take apart, then the double spring, then keyed washer 000195, then knob last. Maybe the purpose of the cupped washer is to give the double helix a flat surface?

 

[BillT]

I installed mine with the cupped side down, as that is how it's shown in the parts book, and how my assembly came from AMC Classic Spares. I don't think it much matters which way the cupped washer faces, as it will fit together either way. Just check to make sure the cup doesn't bind on the back of the knob if installing cup up.

Also, the part numbers for the knob are for either the 'AJS' or '=M=' logo on the knob. P11s were Matchless knobs (p/n 017260) with the logo shaved off. The original knob is the only part of my damper assembly that came with the bike.

 

[p400]

just a followup drawing to include all the damper pieces.
I agree the cupped washer probably face down as shown on drawing.
please note anchor plate 017008 is shown upside down.