The Atlas Thread

Dominator caps were always on the left until 62, and likely some of 63. They changed to the right, after Bracebridge St closed. I don't know why, and likely nobody else would either.
Sort of a strange thing to change.
 
If you fill up the tank on the centrestand, and then put it on the sidestand (if you have one),
the right side filler cap is above the fuel level, and the left side one below the fuel level. !!
You soon find out if the cap is fuel-tight, and if the breather hole is clear .....

The trick of course is to always fill it on the side stand.
So you never have the fuel cap underwater, so to speak.....

The switch in cap side probably increased the fuel tank size half ? a gallon (useable).
 
Yep, that could be the case. Certainly makes sense. It was around that time that Norton all but stopped offering the side stand though as well.
Who knows. Either way, kind of a neat break in history and a point of reference with anyone restoring a bike to be of the correct year.
 
Nortons may have stopped offering the sidestand, but you could still buy them as aftermarket accessory items.

I bought such a thing for my old dommie (the centrestand was a very heavy lift)
and after it staggered to a drunken lean a few times,
figured how to weld it to something (that could be unbolted) to make it more solid and trustworthy.

The Atlas one is tricky to fit with the engine/gearbox/primary already installed ?
 
Yep, it is a bit tricky. I've seen side stands used properly, and many that are sort of mounted wrong and making for awkward use.
That being said, I'm looking for one, if you've got spare.
 
How do you insert the new rubber pieces(040386-040387) into the clutch shock?
Are there workshop instructions detailing how to do this?
Thanks for help
 

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There is a procedure in the workshop manual, which involves a vise, an old mainshaft, and a purpose-built tool that looks like a clutch plate with a breaker bar welded on it. Look for a Norton or AMC shop manual, post-1955.

If you're imaginative, you can come up with something

Basically, thick rubbers go in first, then twist the outer hub to compress the thick rubbers and slide the thin ones in. For disassembly, compress the thick ones, pick the thin ones out, then remove the thick

I had decent results going a different route:

I installed the thin ones first, then put the thick ones in, one by one, by squeezing them with a pair of duckbill pliers and sliding them in with a bit of dielectric grease. Nice, fresh, springy rubbers.
 
p400 said:
How do you insert the new rubber pieces(040386-040387) into the clutch shock?
Are there workshop instructions detailing how to do this?
Thanks for help
Click to expand...

There is a tool to apply torque to the clutch center....I do not have a part number.

I made my own tool from 3 old clutch friction plates (I used 3 to get more bearing area on the clutch center - 2 would likely work just fine). the friction plates are aligned on an old center ( or remove the existing one), then drill 3 holes thru all three plates approx. 120 degrees apart, then bolt the plates together. Next weld a 1 inch wide by 1/8 flat stock strap across the center of the outer plate, and in the center of this strap, weld a 3/4 nut. To give yourself more finger room to work the rubbers, I welded the flat stock to two 1/2 inch black iron pipe unions which functioned as spacers keeping the flat stock strap about 1 inch above the friction plate.

Engage top gear, apply the rear brake, and apply torque to the welded in nut, while a second person pushes in the rubbers.

Sorry that I cannot show a pic of the tool .... I am on the road .... Be home in two weeks. PM me then if you need a pic of the tool.
 
texasSlick said:
There is a tool to apply torque to the clutch center....I do not have a part number.I made my own tool from 3 old clutch friction plates (I used 3 to get more bearing area on the clutch center - 2 would likely work just fine). the friction plates are aligned on an old center ( or remove the existing one), then drill 3 holes thru all three plates approx. 120 degrees apart, then bolt the plates together. Next weld a 1 inch wide by 1/8 flat stock strap across the center of the outer plate, and in the center of this strap, weld a 3/4 nut. To give yourself more finger room to work the rubbers, I welded the flat stock to two 1/2 inch black iron pipe unions which functioned as spacers keeping the flat stock strap about 1 inch above the friction plate.Engage top gear, apply the rear brake, and apply torque to the welded in nut, while a second person pushes in the rubbers. Sorry that I cannot show a pic of the tool .... I am on the road .... Be home in two weeks. PM me then if you need a pic of the tool.
Click to expand...
Thanks Slick and Bill, great ideas. I did find a tool for torqueing this hub. Might be excessive for me to own , maybe I can borrow one locally.
I now understand how to get this done.
The Atlas Thread
 
@P400

that is the tool ... You can make one from a friction plate, or one as I described. My design is compact, using a socket and breaker bar, and can be stored in less space. I think you have the idea how to proceed.

Slick
 
Does anyone know if any 2:1 speedometer drive will work on the Atlas? Mine crapped out (I can turn the inner cable with my fingers and have a clunking sound in the drive). If not, what is the correct BG number?

Scott
 
Scott

Pt No 24563 is drive gearbox. I do not know if you can sub any 2:1 GB. Perhaps internals can be swapped from one 2:1 to another.

Slick
 
kernel65 said:
Does anyone know if any 2:1 speedometer drive will work on the Atlas? Mine crapped out (I can turn the inner cable with my fingers and have a clunking sound in the drive). If not, what is the correct BG number?

Scott
Click to expand...

BG1508/05
 
Thanks guys but those look like Tach drives. I'm looking for a speedo drive.

I found part number 22888 and a cross to BG 5330/257.

I did see one /257 on ebay in England but would any other BG 5330/XXX work?

Scott
 
Scott

I must be getting dyslexic in my old age .... I read that as tachometer drive.

Ok .... I am fairly well certain any 2:1 speedometer GB drive pt no 5330 will work. However, the center hole in the housing varies for the bike application, and the suffix after the "/" refers to the hole diameter variant. The bike mfgr inserts a spacer in that hole to fit the GB to the axle.

I recently bought a NOS GB on EBay which had a 0.750 hole. Time Warp graciously turned me a spacer to reduce the hole diameter to the stock Atlas value which eludes me .... I have it at my office and can PM it tomorrow, or you can press out your top hat spacer and measure the diameter.

Good Luck on finding a replacement. There are newly made knock-offs, but posters on this forum have generally been not satisfied with the life expectancy of the knock-offs. I would feel more comfortable with a genuine used Smiths.

It is possible to transfer the innards from one housing to another to get around the hole diameter problem.

Slick
 
I misread it, too. Sorry.

Yeah, BG5330/257 for speedo drive. The /257 designation means its a 2:1 reversing gearbox with the center hole sized for the Norton spindle spacer. Specified for most of the Nortons and Norton-wheeled hybrids until the Commando

According to my Smiths manual, the other 2:1 5330 boxes are:

BG 5330/31
BG 5330/247
BG 5330/287

The manual does not give the spindle hole diameters on any of these boxes, but the /31 is the box for certain BSA Starfires and Victors, and the /247 and /287 are the boxes for most of the BSA/Triumph twins
 
The hole diameter on the Atlas Speedo GB is 0.665 inches. My original GB obliterated the model / Suffix number when it jammed up and twisted itself into the hub, so I do not know the suffix number.

I recently purchased a 5330 / 287 NOS GB which has a center hole of 0.750 diameter.

The center hole in the GB for the Atlas spindle has a diameter of 0.570 - 0.572 inches. Norton fits a top hat bushing into the 0.665 hole to sleeve it down to 0.570.

Any 2:1 5330 GB should work by boring / sleeving the center hole.

Slick
 
The basic 5330 comes in 2:1 and 12/15 (1.25:1) drive ratio. So it will fit...yes.. but not work to correctly indicate speed without the correct speedo..
I'm measuring the axle as .562" or 9/16". The swing arm slot as .570 and the speedo GB top hat spacer as .570 also.

FWIW
If 2:1 then the drive dogs are solid.
If 1.25:1, the twin drive dogs have holes drill in the face of the dogs.
A 1.25 can be made into a MKIII reverse rotation by completely demanufacturing a regular commando GB and reversing the components of the shaft components...done it several times.
 
I have edited my previous post to clarify it and be consistant with Dynodave.

Slick
 
Thanks for the information. The measurements came in handy to verify what I am working with.

I think I will crack open the old drive and see what went wrong and keep it for parts. I read an old post on how to disassemble the drive and will go from there.

Thanks again!

Scott
 
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