Taylor headsteady - loose frame clamp

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stu

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I fitted a Dave Taylor headsteady a couple of years ago - a fine bit of kit with big improvements to handling etc. Unfortunately I may have missed Loctite to the frame clamp screws and has resulted in it working loose at speed. Low vibration for about 40 miles getting home and struggling now to get the clamp tight onto the frame. I figure the inside radius of the aluminium clamp has worn (saving the frame !) but looking to fix this afternoon for tomorrows commute into work. The clamp looks like it needs to be good and tight so a sleeve is maybe not a good move and with the threads presumably running right through the two pieces no scope to reduce the mating faces. Any clever fixes for this ? (other than ordering another clamp up)

Stewart
 
I had your exact problem, some frames were made with a slightly smaller diameter tube

fix is take beer can or soda can and cut out a piece and put it between the Dave Tayor and the tube
 
Check the frame tube diameter as it can be either 1 inch (25.4mm) or 25.0mm on later frames.

The Taylor clamp is made to fit the 1 inch tube.
 
thanks all - the frame tube looks to measure 25.4 mm diameter and I'm sure it was a good snug fit when I installed it originally. I guess it must have worn over those 40 miles so remedial action required. I'll maybe try shim out with a tin strip for a couple of days while I order up a replacement clamp.
 
finished my can of Irn-bru and cut a wee strip out for the shim. Surprised at how well everything seated down and looks good and tight in there now - cheers !
 
Reducing the clamp mating surfaces is a common fix and one I did without issues.

Scott
 
My commando is a 73 850 and uses the metric tubing (Italian frame?), I milled off about .010 off each side of the clamp block and I can tighten it up without any shims
 
I failed miserably with shims - they worked their way out.
1/2 hour or so working the mating faces on wet and dry on a flat surface worked a treat.
 
Hate to say bad things about the DT head steady as it's such a good piece of kit, but if shims had been fitted between the clamp faces prior to boring the 1" hole there wouldn't be an issue. As manufactured it's a better con-rod than clamp...

Just to add another voice, filing down the faces is the answer, as already stated above.
 
For Auldblu I took 20 thou off on a mill and double checked it fitted an Italian frame, going a few thou over is not an issue. I had to retap the threads in the holes as over tightening by previous owner had distorted the threads in an attempt to get the clamp to clamp.
 
Well I thought I would have a look at my DT headsteady and yep loose clamp. I went for a variation on the metal drinks can shim method, Diet Coke (goes with the Mt Gay rum). Fraid I don't like Irun Brew, haggis, scurly, mealie pud, macaroni pies or deep fried Mars bars even though I lived in the wilds of Scotland for many years. So far it has held up to a 50 mile test run today, MayDay run tomorrow down to Hastings, will take the tank off when I get back and see if it's holding.
 
I hate to be the one to point it out, but if you are in the market for a superior head steady, the Jim Comstock/CNW unit does the job well with none of the issues. The rose joint doesn't wear out and it doesn't rely on clamping around a tube. I've had one on my bike for over 40,000 miles.
 
Yessir, +1 ref the Comnoz head steady.

People say they’re expensive...

But they are exquisitely made, they fit without any machining or need to fit recycled wasted to your bike, they don’t wear, and they sharpen the handling.

They’re a bloody bargain I reckon!
 
CnW have been out of stock since late last year unfortunately.
 
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