Problem with Dave Taylor headsteady installation

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I need some help. With a lot of things, but from this group, with installation of an old DT headsteady on my 73 850. I bought the headsteady ten years ago, and it sat unused until recently, along with lots of other parts and the bike. I have finally started reassembling things - the gearbox is rebuilt and re-installed, the Mick Hemmings vernier iso adjusters are installed. So I started installing the headsteady, and found that the cylinder head mounting plate holes needed drilling and filing to fit, they were too close together to screw the allen bolts in. Then I found that my frame appears to be metric, the 1" tube is actually 25.0 mm including paint, so I had to shim the aluminum clamp. When I reached the point in the instructions about installing the Heim joint I found that the out-of-the box preset Heim joint, ball end rod joint/Rose joint was too short to fit.

This was a bit of a surprise to me, so I grabbed a wrench to unscrew and lengthen it. No dice, solic as a rock. So, thougth I, must be left hand thread, tried it the other way. Rock solid. I ended up putting the male end in my vice and a wrench and pipe on the flats on the female fitting, and with my heart in my mouth, was able, just, to unscrew it. Seems like it was epoxied together. I grabbed a tap and die set to clean it up, and found to my surprise, again, it appears to be metric, 8 X 1.25 mm to be exact? WTF?

Cleaned up the threads, and reassembled, adjusted to fit between the head mount and the frame mount, and found I had about 2 threads holding it together. Thinking something was out of alignment, I put the original box section head steady back on, and it fits perfectly. The engine offset is slightly over 1/8" to the left, the iso's didn't need any pushing around to get the vernier adjusters in place, and the frame appears undamaged as far as I can tell.

So I am baffled. I can't use the supplied heim as it doesn't thread in far enough for me to trust it, so I need to buy a substitute. Any reason not to go for 5/16 x 24 size heim joint?

Has anyone else had issues with fitting these headsteadies? I guess I could go back to the supplier (RGM??? I'd have to check the invoice) but after a decade, I doubt they would be helpful, and frankly, I wouldn't expect them to be.

Anyone's experience in fitting and fettling these would be helpful. I have searched this forum, and found nothing to suggest anyone else had had similar issues.
 
Ugh, If ya can get a decent clamp on the under tube and the two mounting points mostly line up then 5/16" rod end is plenty robust with a proper length reversed threaded radius rod. About the time the head link is engaged so are the isolastic resisting tipping too but then tend to rebound which rod links help stem.
 
airedale said:
I need some help. With a lot of things, but from this group, with installation of an old DT headsteady on my 73 850.

I do not know if the old and new steadies are the same. I have the current DT on 3 Commando's pre MK3. Each one required some fettling to get it to work. Mainly getting a good clamp on the frame.

It would be difficult for it not to fit and work.
 
I'm following this thread with interest, as I had some fitment troubles with mine as well. I followed the instructions as best I could, but they state that after installed with the bike on the centerstand you should not be able to move the rod? Off the stand the rod is level and as close to a right angle to the backbone tube as I can get it, and the clamp is a tight fit on the tube. Anyone have a picture of one installed?
Thanks
 
I have a 74 with a September build date & allthough I have one of J.Comstocks from Colorado Norton Works and mine bolts to the top tube so I didn't have the clamp problem, like you mine would not line up with the holes in my head. I asumed the headsteady was not machined correctly but after sending all the measurments including templates of my head & the part to Jim we found that the part we came to the conclusion that the holes in the head were off and the part was ok. It seemed odd to me but maybe Norton didn't have the best quality control by then & that's why the stock one has sloted holes, I don't know. Per Jim's recomendations I was able to have a friend/machinist slot one or two holes ( can't remember ) and it's worked great for thousands of miles. I wonder has anyone else had this trouble??
 
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