Superblend Bearings FAG NU306E original?

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Drummer99

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I have just separated my cases on am 1974 850 Interstate. The main bearings are FAG NU306E Does anyone know if these are the original Superblend Bearings? Also what is the best method to pull the bearings off the crank not much room to get a puller in there. Would heating with a propane torch losen them up or will that damage the case hardening? Bike had 13000 miles on it .Also had the crank apart and cleaned it up should I put Loctite on the nuts? manuals say tighten very very tight? but no torque setting? Any ideas on what the torque setting might be. Enjoy this forum very much lots of great ideas
Thanks Drummer99
 
There is a main bearing puller for this but you would only need it say once or twice in your life so just ask to borrow one from a nearby forum member in the hood or they could come by over the winter months for comraderie n' beer. Just ask and see who replys.
 
The correct main bearing is NJ306E.

Superblend Bearings FAG NU306E original?
 
Missed that one, the J is important ,stands for journal edge of the inner race to locate and stop drifting about.So those bearings will need to be replaced.
 
So should I assume then that someone has replaced these as they would not have come from the factory with the wrong bearings?
 
It would be common for the outer race to be stamped as an NU306e but the inner race has the Nj306E stamp. The outer race was the same on either bearing . The difference was the inner race has a flange built on it for thrust.

I would not remove the bearings from the crank unless you need to replace them. At 13,000 miles they should hardly even be broken in. Jim
 
Drummer99 said:
So should I assume then that someone has replaced these as they would not have come from the factory with the wrong bearings?
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NO.
I have seen more than once an NU outer with and NJ inner.
I bet your inner is NJ just like this bearing that came out of a 210XXX case.

Superblend Bearings FAG NU306E original?
 
comnoz said:
It would be common for the outer race to be stamped as an NU306e but the inner race has the Nj306E stamp. The outer race was the same on either bearing . The difference was the inner race has a flange built on it for thrust.

I would not remove the bearings from the crank unless you need to replace them. At 13,000 miles they should hardly even be broken in. Jim
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Gidday Jim. some advice on this please.

using Nu outer and NJ inner indicates to me the bearings are supplied not as a matched pair, but a combination of styles. my SKF book indicates that when these bearings are supplied as such, the resulting tolerances are very different from a matched pair. this is very clearly stated as something to be aware of.

Am I correct in my interpretation of the SKF book. would this have any practical consequences.
Best wishes Bradley
 
B.Rad said:
comnoz said:
It would be common for the outer race to be stamped as an NU306e but the inner race has the Nj306E stamp. The outer race was the same on either bearing . The difference was the inner race has a flange built on it for thrust.

I would not remove the bearings from the crank unless you need to replace them. At 13,000 miles they should hardly even be broken in. Jim
Click to expand...
Gidday Jim. some advice on this please.

using Nu outer and NJ inner indicates to me the bearings are supplied not as a matched pair, but a combination of styles. my SKF book indicates that when these bearings are supplied as such, the resulting tolerances are very different from a matched pair. this is very clearly stated as something to be aware of.

Am I correct in my interpretation of the SKF book. would this have any practical consequences.
Best wishes Bradley
Click to expand...

This begs the question, Is there such a thing as a "NJ" outer?
 
B.Rad said:
comnoz said:
It would be common for the outer race to be stamped as an NU306e but the inner race has the Nj306E stamp. The outer race was the same on either bearing . The difference was the inner race has a flange built on it for thrust.

I would not remove the bearings from the crank unless you need to replace them. At 13,000 miles they should hardly even be broken in. Jim
Click to expand...
Gidday Jim. some advice on this please.

using Nu outer and NJ inner indicates to me the bearings are supplied not as a matched pair, but a combination of styles. my SKF book indicates that when these bearings are supplied as such, the resulting tolerances are very different from a matched pair. this is very clearly stated as something to be aware of.

Am I correct in my interpretation of the SKF book. would this have any practical consequences.
Best wishes Bradley
Click to expand...

An NU outer and a NJ inner was standard original equipment. Nothing to fear. I just got a set of new bearings last week and they were marked NU on the outer race and NJ on the inner. Jim
 
Thanks Jim.
with all the debate whether normal or C3 clearence I was just wondering if this would have been an issue.
thanks again bradley
 
B.Rad said:
Thanks Jim.
with all the debate whether normal or C3 clearence I was just wondering if this would have been an issue.
thanks again bradley
Click to expand...

Yes,
I use c3 bearings in new or nearly new cases or aftermarket cases.
If the original cases have more than about 10,000 miles on them they will be loose enough that standard clearance bearings will work fine. Jim
 
The best way to remove them is to heat cases with blow torch or in your kitchen oven (clean them well first an make sure wife is out of house). A good blow torch is best on the outer surfaces of the case as it sits with the joint face on the work bench an if it heats the alloy fast enough this will expand an the bearing simply falls out. Fitting the new bearing is the reverse heat cases an slide cold bearing in.
Heat will not damage the alloy but using pullers presses or hammering things most likely will.
 
toppy said:
The best way to remove them is to heat cases with blow torch or in your kitchen oven (clean them well first an make sure wife is out of house). A good blow torch is best on the outer surfaces of the case as it sits with the joint face on the work bench an if it heats the alloy fast enough this will expand an the bearing simply falls out. Fitting the new bearing is the reverse heat cases an slide cold bearing in. Heat will not damage the alloy but using pullers presses or hammering things most likely will.
Click to expand...

I believe his bearings are stuck on the crank, not in the cases.
 
Guys you have been most helpful. The inner races indeed are NJ306E and the outers are as described in the pictures so looks like they are original. I believe they are in really good shape I used a propane torch to heat the cases as my wife caught me in the kitchen about to use the stove. I just want to be sure that the heat from the torch wouldnt affect the case hardening of the bearings? I likely will just leave the inner races on the crank. Drummer99
 
I used a small gas grill to heat the cases one at a time and the outer bearings just fell out. The inner one was a problem, I used the Hemmings method with a chisel, but I wouldn't do it again. It took forever and did scar up some stuff.

Dave
69S
 
Not sure if you have removed them already, but best to leave the outer and inner races in place since the bearings are correct and almost new. If the outer races have already been removed, keep track of them so that they go back in the same hole. The inners and outers wear in to each other, tho removing then replacing the outer disrupts this, still best to keep them as pairs.

Glen
 
At work we remove bearing by CAREFULLY using an angle grinder on the race GENTLE grind an as the metal thins it will turn blue than do same on opposite side an then race will crack with hammer an chisel. You must be gentle an it is not a job for the last faint hearted.
Today I received two new genus bearing from Mick Hemmings in Andorra Norton packaging both the inner and outer races are marked with the same codes FAG X-life NJ306E.M1.C3 INDIA J130
I hope Indian bearings are better than those Portuguese ones that everyone says fail in the gearbox :?
 
They are from Andover Norton not Andorra Norton don't you just love these auto spe :oops: :oops: ll check things :oops: :oops:
 
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