sump washer

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pelican

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I put a new sump washer on a few weeks ago, and now it's leaking whereas it never did before. It was the crush type washer. Should I have annealed it first? or do you think it's just not tight enough?
 
I annealed mine but I'm using a standard style solid copper flat washer. I also bought the Norvil SS sump body with plug which makes life a lot easier when having to drain a wet sumping motor on a regular basis (http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/067221.htm). While you have the sump plug out to replace the washer it pays to solder the internal circlip and fender washer assembly to the plug body.
 
I have 3 more washers. If it leaks again I might have to order one of those from norvil. Is it the same size head? What is the chamfered piece on the end?
 
pelican said:
I have 3 more washers. If it leaks again I might have to order one of those from norvil. Is it the same size head? What is the chamfered piece on the end?
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Here is a better picture of the assembly http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/techtalk18.htm . The champher or boss is to provide extra material for the magnetic plug thread. Think of it as a smaller more manageable plug with in the larger sump plug body. I turned up my own solid washer on the lathe out of some copper bar stock after seeing the standard Norton doughnut style washer. Don't forget to solder that clip in the sump body. They cause a LOT of damage when they come lose and bounce around in your crankcase!!
 
Typical, the original ones are nylon which work a treat. Then they have to change it for something better?
I do like the idea of a drain plug in the filter housing.
I never drain my wet sump before I start it, never bothered me.
 
If I can I try to use dowty seals on all drain an inspection plugs, seen them called something else recently :?:
 
pelican said:
I put a new sump washer on a few weeks ago, and now it's leaking whereas it never did before. It was the crush type washer. Should I have annealed it first?
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Do you mean the drain plug seal, or the gauze strainer seal?
Personally I wouldn't bother annealing it, if it is a crush washer, as it should be ready to use, and I've never had any problems whith the standard strainer crush washer. I use a solid copper seal on the drain plug, which I do anneal.


splatt said:
If I can I try to use dowty seals on all drain an inspection plugs, seen them called something else recently
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Dowty washers are solid, with a rubber bonded seal insert. There are similar seals called 'Stat-O-Seal' which have a deformable aluminium outer 'jacket' crimped over a rubber 'washer', so Stat-O-Seals are crush washers, Dowty washers are not.

http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Earls/PA_Seals.asp

A copper type, similar to Stat-O Seals are commonly supplied as petrol tap to tank sealing washers.
 
The large one on the gauze strainer. I may have just not fully crushed it. I don't have a wrench that big, and my socket is kinda spotty because it has a chamfer on the inside edge. I'm going to try and grind the socket down so I can get a better hold, and try to tighten it more.
 
I was wondering if anyone was using stat-o-seals on their Nortons, and where. It seems like a good idea on oil tank fittings and perhaps the oil lines to the head :?:
 
I think note #3 is particularly pertinent:

"Thirdly, some Norton's can have an anti-drain valve fitted inside the timing cover, (AFTER the oil pump), this prevents the seeping of oil down onto the bottom of the crankcases. On Dominators & Commandos Pre 131257, a modification can be made to your timing cover, if you send it to us, (see workshop services code WB12). On Commandos with engine number 131257 onward, a new timing cover, (066161A), can be fitted to solve the problem - see picture below. ** PLEASE NOTE ** This is NOT the dangerous type of anti-drain valve, which is fitted by some people into the oil feed line above the crankcases. Anti-drain valves fitted into oil feeds, always cause oil starvation to the big ends for a brief time when starting the bike. If you use a tap instead and forget to turn it on, it will totally blow up your engine. "

I've tried the inline feed check valve. ZERO hot oil pressure at idle. This is with a new pump. Threw that sucker underneath the bench.
 
domiracer66 said:
Coco said:
domiracer66 said:
Here is a better picture of the assembly http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/techtalk18.htm .
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I'm not much of a Norvil fan but I will say I think I need one of those. Anyone selling these here in N. America?
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Unfortunately they don't but if I remember correctly shipping didn't take all that long.
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Will that fit a MKIII? I'm thinking not as it states early Commando. I like it for the ease of draining the sump and the magnetic bolt.
 
Will that fit a MKIII? I'm thinking not as it states early Commando.
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You don't need it. Your MkIII already has a magnetic drain plug.

The early models don't have drain plugs so you must remove the sump filter to drain it. Norvil has added a threaded sleeve to the sump filter and srewed in a late magnetic drain plug.

I don't know the thread, but you should be able to drill a hole in the sump filter of an early Commando and weld on an appropriate size nut for the magnetic drain plug.
 
I bought a $3 pack of 3 rare earth magnet discs from our local Princess Auto store. They are chrome covered, and about the size of a nickel. Stuck them onto the sump plug, and they stick like super glue. Magnetizes the sump bolt, never seen, and won't get knocked off. Been using this trick on my Triumph Speedmaster for the last 3 years.
 
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