Stuck Head!

OK...all the fasteners are out and it didn't lift, won't lift...tempted to stick something in there and pry!

Yes, I am sure I got all of them, even the sleave nuts on the bottom front. I have counted to ten with them a number of times. Right now I have my heat gun clamped in place blasting hot air on it. It is a really good heat gun but I bet it never gets very hot with it being 30-degrees out there.

I could use some ideas. Or at least encouragement.

Russ

Don't pry on it, you'll just break a fin. If the engine is still in the frame, kick it over. If out of the frame and a 750 you can take the cylinder nuts off and lift cylinders and head off at the same time. Once out you can put a piece of wood up the cylinder hole and tap against the head. This doesn't work with 850s however due to the allen bolts.

I agree with illf8ed, I had to do just that with a 750 years ago (using just the method he describes) and it worked a treat !!! Squirting penetrating oil on all the joints is a must too, along with the heat. And as he states if it's an 850, can be more of a problem. Good luck !!!

It is an 850 and still in the frame. The primary has been removed so I turned it over using the alternator nut on the crank. I can't say compression is impressive. I could try putting the primary back on it might blast it loose with a good kick but I think the compression is toast.

I wonder if I could put some blocks under the nuts in front and use the threads to push up on the studs. Maybe in back too.

You can use a 2X2 a few inches long angling up from the bottom with the end in the exhaust port. Then use a hammer on the end of the 2X2. The exhaust port is a strong area to push against. When you put it back together forget the sealant. Jim

MMMmmm ... I fear you risk some damage if you try a block on the front threads. I know it's a PITA; but I would reinstall the primary and try kicking it with the kickstarter. Even if the compression is low, if ya leave the spark plugs in; it SHOULD then break the seal. ALSO, once the primary is on, you can also place it in 4th gear and try rolling it around. Easy with the plugs out, but you'll get even more "push-power" if ya leave the plugs in. This method has worked for me. Cheers, and let us know how it goes ...

Well I probably wouldn't use hardwood. I don't think you could dent the threads with a regular pine 2X2 unless the head bolts were not all removed and you had a really big hammer. And then I know someone who can fix the threads. Jim.

In a heated head spray some W/D, ether or gasoline then bring up to compression with the plugs in via the big wrench on nipped up crank nut, attach plugs leads to ignition and touch her off while trying to prevent crank turning. Firecraker goes off faster than can get a plug reliably in first Some have pumped grease via a modifed spark plug or air which can build up pressure that keep expanding on release.

Stuff cord inside after getting valve up out the way and crank away, maybe after heating and whacking some on hard spots to fracture brittle glued sealant. Might fill chambers with diesel or gasoline to seep in some too. Worked at it now and then with the forum mind hive focused on it should bring joy and new discoveries to puzzle ya.

I got the head off last night but was too tired (all that effort) to post.

First, the 1500W heat gun deserves more credit than I gave it. It took about an hour point-blank but it got the head and barrels too hot to handle.
I then put the two sleeve nuts back on about half way and used the nearby base nuts as a fulcrum I put just enough pressure on to see if the upward pressure on the studs would wiggle anything. It did.
I then put the exhaust nuts back in (the fins were pretty beat up from getting them out) to use as a handle and a place to whack from underneath.
I put a good solid lump of brass under the intake castings for a spot to whack on the back side.
Put on some gloves and started whacking, wiggling and grunting and finally got it off.
There was not any goo that I could detect on the gasket, it was corrosion on the studs that was causing the main problem.
Here are some pics after removal. This motor was seized when I got the bike, so I flooded the entire engine with ATF/Acetone and let it sit for over two months. The pistons broke loose in their bores while taking the primary apart.
This is after sitting in unheated and wet storage for 35 years.








Russ

Not bad at all. Be glad it wasn't all rusted solid, those are MUCH harder to un-stick.

Way to go, I' m relived it worked and wasn't me this time : ) Looks nice intact like Paul said so should live and ride again a long time, someday. ATF/acetone was good idea I've got to keep in mind myself. Now can make list of what to buy.