Stripped!

DogT · Oct 15, 2011

I always wanted to be a shrubbery salesman.

Nih.

Dave
69S

GRM 450 · Oct 15, 2011

What's on the television? Looks like a penguin? On no it's the Moto GP, must go,,,,,,

Mark F · Oct 16, 2011

Thanks Mark, going to wander up there and grab some later. Have finished prepping the frame so it's time to start painting today. Damn inconvenient having the MotoGP on this arvo.[/quote]
Yeah Damn MotoGP! It got in the way of work on my 850. Still was a good result for the local lad. 2011 champion! What the heck has happened to Rossi this year? :roll:

Josh Cox · Oct 16, 2011

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2UbtcmjfKa8

DogT · Oct 16, 2011

This is my favorite, kind of goes along with the OWS.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rAaWvVFERVA

DogT

davamb · Oct 17, 2011

Knights, ni, shrubberies, penguins, Phillip Island, stormy petrel on a stick anyone? Now where the hell were we? Ah yes. Frame painting. Have just done the second coat with 24 hours and a light rubdown with fine wet-and-dry on the first one. Looks pretty good. That paint is gooood shit. If it dries as hard as they claim it's certainly going to do the job. I'll leave it 4 days now to the weekend and then it's time to start reassembling. In the meantime will figure out how to get the isos apart and get the front bracket modified to take the vernier.

Mark F · Oct 17, 2011

Yeah and to think some pimply faced kid put me on to that paint. :lol: Best thing I ever got out of Bunnings I think.
Getting the iso's apart is the easy part. I had a real hard time getting the new mk 3 front rubbers in. The rears went in pretty easy. Don't forget the rubber grease. It helps but still tough getting them started.

davamb · Oct 22, 2011

Well I've started reassembly but have a quandry. Vernier iso instructions say that

TT said:
The flanges of the mount tube that protrude each side of the plates need to be shortened to 5.5 to 6.0 mm so that the tube is 105.5mm long overall.

The (cleaned-up) assembly looks like this:

Is it meant to be asymmetrical? Tube is currently 115.5 long with 92 between outer faces of plates. Adding another 12 gives 104mm, but I guess that's only a guide, the finished dimension is what's being aimed at here. What I don't get is whether to get it symmetrical when machined or take equal amounts off each side to reach the target. (Oh and that's the right or throttle side that's longer BTW.)
Can anyone set me right here please?

davamb · Oct 23, 2011

Well, decided to push on in the meantime. Frame with two coats and a couple of days to set:

Ready to start reassembly. New rear vernier isolastic installed. Yummy.

Better give that cradle a sand back and a lick of paint.
Very tired old iso rubbish:

Should be some good progress this week!

L.A.B. · Oct 23, 2011

davamb said:
Is it meant to be asymmetrical? Tube is currently 115.5 long with 92 between outer faces of plates. Adding another 12 gives 104mm, but I guess that's only a guide, the finished dimension is what's being aimed at here. What I don't get is whether to get it symmetrical when machined or take equal amounts off each side to reach the target. (Oh and that's the right or throttle side that's longer BTW.)
Can anyone set me right here please?

Reading through the instruction sheet in your photo, it appears to give the following information which seems reasonably straightforward (even with the mounting lying on top):

The flanges [of?] the mount tube that protrude each side of [the plates?] need to be shortened to 5.50-6.00mm so that [the?] tube is 105.5mm long overall

So: "The flanges....need to be shortened to 5.50-6.00mm" seems to make it clear that both ends have to be shortened to equal lengths of between 5.50-6.00mm.

The required length is 105.5mm which from your measurement, is more than 6.00mm, so I suggest you shorten each side to give 105.5mm overall and then try it?

"5.50-6.00mm"
(the Norvil instructions state 1/4" = 6.4mm)
http://www.norvilmotorcycle.co.uk/techtalk03.htm

davamb · Oct 23, 2011

Thanks LAB, I'm pretty clear now on what to end up with, 105.5mm wide, symmetrical 5.5 to 6mm on both sides, but I guess what really drives my confusion is - are all the tubes asymmetrical to start with or is there something special with mine? Or maybe S-types in particular? Or 1970 models? Or ... I dunno ... ?????

L.A.B. · Oct 23, 2011

davamb said:
I guess what really drives my confusion is - are all the tubes asymmetrical to start with or is there something special with mine? Or maybe S-types in particular? Or 1970 models? Or ... I dunno ... ?????

Yes, they are assymetrical (pre=-850 Mk3) and there was only one pre-Mk3 front Iso. mounting, part 061410. [Edit] However, the '68-'70 parts book lists the front mounting as part 060418 -"(assembled)".

GRM 450 · Oct 23, 2011

Dave, get them machined shorter so they are flat or the adjustment won't be accurate

bill · Oct 23, 2011

dave you have the rear adjuster on the wrong side as it should be on the primary side. when you assemble the front the adjuster will need to be on the timing side.

davamb said:
Ready to start reassembly. New rear vernier isolastic installed. Yummy.

Should be some good progress this week!

davamb · Oct 23, 2011

L.A.B. said:
Yes, they are assymetrical (pre=-850 Mk3) and there was only one pre-Mk3 front Iso. mounting, part 061410. [Edit] However, the '68-'70 parts book lists the front mounting as part 060418 -"(assembled)".

Ahhh. Good. I was rather worried there. Thought it might have been covering something really, really hideous!

GRM 450 said:
Dave, get them machined shorter so they are flat or the adjustment won't be accurate

Cheers Graeme, understand how it all works now. Just have to find someone with a lathe! Should be someone in our industrial estate. Would love to have one of my own, but have neither the money nor the space to put it!

bill said:
dave you have the rear adjuster on the wrong side as it should be on the primary side. when you assemble the front the adjuster will need to be on the timing side.

Thanks Bill, I'd already picked that up. Had to take it apart to put the gaitors on after the pictures so fixed it up then. And the front is the opposite way around - adjust on the right.

Thanks for all the assistance guys. I wish I could give back as much help as I receive.

davamb · Nov 2, 2011

Is there a trick to getting the front iso back on once the motor's back in the frame? Only thing I can think of is to "spring" the front downtubes a couple of mm.

Sweenz · Nov 2, 2011

Hi Dave, I am pretty certain I put my front ISO mount in coming up from underneath the engine & frame with no drama.
If need be you could jack the engine up in height, just make sure the head steady isn't mounted.

Sweenz

davamb · Nov 2, 2011

Thanks Sweenz, I'll try that. It's sitting on the ground at the moment, will try and get some assistance to lift frame and motor up on to a milk crate. Pretty sure I popped a rib the other day lifting the motor into the frame by myself. Bones getting a bit brittle with age I guess.

Sweenz · Nov 2, 2011

davamb said:
Pretty sure I popped a rib the other day lifting the motor into the frame by myself. Bones getting a bit brittle with age I guess.

No worries Dave. I know the deal above , they hurt & are bloody annoying.

Sweenz

Stuart SS · Nov 3, 2011

Shy-te Dave

You're sposed to be building this as a project of pleasure ~ not a task of masochism!!

Maybe you should have made it point to drop in and stay over with Ms and me when you came to FNQ ~ we could've had you lifting the Trident engine assembly in and out for body building purposes eh ~

( Would have been a few beer breaks in there as well of course ~ lol )

Take it easy mate !

Stripped!

DogT

GRM 450

Mark F

Josh Cox

DogT

davamb

Mark F

davamb

davamb

L.A.B.

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davamb

L.A.B.

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GRM 450

bill

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davamb

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