Is there any fix for exposed alternator wires on the stator where they enter the insulation? The copper wire itself looks to be in good shape just the insulation deteriorated. Am I looking at a new alternator? Worked fine before. Couldn' get a good pic as the area is small and I have no macro. Thanks, Rick
Stator wire insulation shot
- Thread starter rgrigutis
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A new Sparx unit I got looked almost like that out of the box but not down to copper. I just put a 2" long piece of heat shrink over where the wires were showing through and crossed my fingers.
I guess I won't know if it worked until i fire the bike up for the first time at the end of the month.
I guess I won't know if it worked until i fire the bike up for the first time at the end of the month.
batrider
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If there is danger of bare parts of wires touching each other I'd cut and re-do the connections with heat shrink tubing on the individual wires. (Soldering required.) There is also very nice heat shrink tubing with glue inside to make an oil-proof connection. (Try mouser.com for the heatshrink tubing.) If it is just one wire that is bare then goop the whole thing with RTV. Whichever method is needed - degrease with contact or even brake cleaner to get the oil out of there first. Use a ty-wrap on the wire to something firm (like the center boss) to strain relieve the connection.
This happened to my original stator and it worked fine for years until I went over to a Lucas 3-phase stator.
This happened to my original stator and it worked fine for years until I went over to a Lucas 3-phase stator.
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Heat shrink might work. Heck, a glob of silicone might too.
Your stater is perfectly servicable, trust me, I am an engineer.
Get a small sharp chisel & carefully dig out the black plastic around the wires as deep as possible.
You will be able to get at the wires then.
Clean up with thinners.
Put shrink wrap around the wires.
Fill the dug out plastic with Araldite (Epoxy glue) until about level.
Leave to set & Hey Voila!
Mine has been like this for years.
Get a small sharp chisel & carefully dig out the black plastic around the wires as deep as possible.
You will be able to get at the wires then.
Clean up with thinners.
Put shrink wrap around the wires.
Fill the dug out plastic with Araldite (Epoxy glue) until about level.
Leave to set & Hey Voila!
Mine has been like this for years.
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Is that a MKIII primary case? First one I've ever seen...looks mighty complicated in there! 
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MexicoMike said:Is that a MKIII primary case? First one I've ever seen...looks mighty complicated in there!
Looks like a lot of weight.
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Yes lads, it's a Mk3 primary. The complicated mechanics come from the hydraulic chain tensioner (worth every ounce) and the e-starter assembly (worthwhile at twice the weight). I still carry memories of kicking my Combat over and over again, and that was 35 years ago. Now, I smile every time I touch the start button.
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ludwig said:You could make an extra support for the wire to prevent vibration cracking .
with a strap of aluminium or something ..
Possibly?
But I think the outer sleeving eventually becomes hardened through heat and oil contamination anyway, and it then starts to break in the area where it enters the stator when owners allow the stator to hang by its wires when they dismantle the primary drive.
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rick in seattle said:
My money says that if you had a starter on that Combat you'd have both a depleted battery and a worn out leg. An improperly set up bike won't start with or without the "magic button".
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The Combat was well set up, Dave. The owner (me) was not. There's only so much a 150 lb man can do with a 10:1 compression ratio bike.
BTW, depleted batteries on a Mk3 are really a 70's thing, what with 3-phase alternators, 300 CCA batteries, Dave Comeau starters, and improved wiring. I never worry about the battery. I do worry about the sprag clutch. We are getting a bit off-topic, though.
BTW, depleted batteries on a Mk3 are really a 70's thing, what with 3-phase alternators, 300 CCA batteries, Dave Comeau starters, and improved wiring. I never worry about the battery. I do worry about the sprag clutch. We are getting a bit off-topic, though.
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Re bad stator wires -
Here is what mine looked like on a Sparx 3-phase that was a year and a half old. The outer black wire covering had become hard and brittle. One of the 3 wires had broken completely. I thought about trying a repair, but thoughts of being stranded with a dead battery 50 miles from home made me think twice. I replaced the stator instead. And yes you can get just the stator unit. ( I had bought the Sparx 3-phase kit, which includes stator, rotor, and voltage regulator). Obviously this should not have happened to the stator in the first place - hope the new one hold up better!
and a close up of the gory details:
Keith
Here is what mine looked like on a Sparx 3-phase that was a year and a half old. The outer black wire covering had become hard and brittle. One of the 3 wires had broken completely. I thought about trying a repair, but thoughts of being stranded with a dead battery 50 miles from home made me think twice. I replaced the stator instead. And yes you can get just the stator unit. ( I had bought the Sparx 3-phase kit, which includes stator, rotor, and voltage regulator). Obviously this should not have happened to the stator in the first place - hope the new one hold up better!
and a close up of the gory details:
Keith
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How about a wider shot showing the wiring routing? How much stress was on the wires?
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