Speedometer cable

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I have a 73 Commando. I had my speedo rebuilt. I installed a Smiths 12/15 gearbox. I put my drill on the gearbox end in reverse to check the speedo and the speedo worked fine. I know the gearbox is positioned on the wheel correctly. New speedo cable and housing from Wallrige in Canada. Speedo still doesn't register. I read on this forum the length of the cable going into the speedo must not be longer than 7/16 going into the speedo. Mine is 7/8 into. I don't think there is enough cable going into the gearbox to make a good connection. I think the stop on the speedo end was crimped on to low. What would it matter if I inserted it into the gearbox end to reverse the amount going into each connection? Any ideas?
 
icktaylor said:
I read on this forum the length of the cable going into the speedo must not be longer than 7/16 going into the speedo.

7/16" for instruments up to 1970 (on right in photo). 9/16" for 1971-on instruments (left).
Speedometer cable


http://www.chronometrics.co.uk/Cables/cables.html
Speedometer cable

(and 7/16" for magnetic instruments to 1970)

If in doubt, measure the drive depth of the instrument.
 
I bought and fitted a new cable some years ago for my 71 750. It jammed the speedo so I ground a small amount off the end of the cable. Then I found it would not engage enough in the drive g/box. I got it working but because I don't ride that bike, I didn't think much more about it.
after the bottom end problem with my 850 happened I was forced to use it for the last rally, but the speedo stopped working. When I got back, I checked it out again .
I ended up making a spacer to hold the cable at the front end in the right place, then took the rear of the cable apart and hacksawed a small amount off the outer cable. The end fitting pulled off the out cable reasonably easily. I fitted it all back together and re-crimped the end fitting as best I could and all is fine now.
May not be your problem but food for thought.
Dereck
 
kerinorton said:
I bought and fitted a new cable some years ago for my 71 750. It jammed the speedo so I ground a small amount off the end of the cable. Then I found it would not engage enough in the drive g/box. I got it working but because I don't ride that bike, I didn't think much more about it.
after the bottom end problem with my 850 happened I was forced to use it for the last rally, but the speedo stopped working. When I got back, I checked it out again .
I ended up making a spacer to hold the cable at the front end in the right place, then took the rear of the cable apart and hacksawed a small amount off the outer cable. The end fitting pulled off the out cable reasonably easily. I fitted it all back together and re-crimped the end fitting as best I could and all is fine now.
May not be your problem but food for thought.
Dereck


"If you have to fiddle with a new part, it is either wrong, or you are fitting it wrongly. To modify a new part to fit, you then have to carry the warranty on that part because you have modified it and absolved the supplier of all responsibility for guaranteeing that part. Simple as that. If you modify it then ask the supplier to sort out your problem, of course they wont be very sympathetic, because you have just buggered their part, and made it not fit for resale.

Do you remember the twits who admitted to cutting their expanders on their 3 pc oil rings so they would fit in the bores. Of course they would then fit. But what if they were the wrong ones in the first place. You cant expect a supplier to guarantee something like that after it has been tampered with. Read the warranty documents." Quote from Dereck

Remember this post? Shortening that cable sounds like a twit move to me...Not really, but just saying sometimes adjustments need to be made...
 
Fair comment. But I had the cable lying round for a few years before I needed to use it. I know who I got it off, but after that length of time, How could I return it. Besides. Its not going to ruin anything with a speedo not working. Dealing with the internals of an engine is a different story. Luck of the draw, Eh, and no skin off my nose.
Please note, I have not suggested anyone else copy my example, I have simply explained what I had to do.

The moral of this story is that it is not necessarily a good idea to carry too many spares. I now believe if you want to carry spares for yourself, then buy a new pat [ like a cable ] and fit it straight away. Use your previous part as a spare. I now have a spare rear brake cable and front throttle cable in my pannier, and the old clutch able is sitting alongside the new cable, ready for a quick change when I am away on a long trip. That I consider is good advise for those who do lots of long trips, and also covers the warranty on the new part.

As they say, stick that in yer pipe and smoke it.
happy days
Dereck.
 
IckTaylor , curious to know how you fixed the situation. I'm in the same boat and considering Kerinortons solution. Cable and gear box replaced 2000 miles ago, working fine until last week when the speedo went intermittent and gave it up half way on a 120 mile ride. Tested cable from gearbox end with drill, cable and clock fine. Pulled and lubed the cable anyway, not broken, ends square. Measured about an inch of space in the gearbox receiving end and about a 1/2 inch of cable out from the end of the sheath. So the cable could be longer relative to the sheath. Pulled the gearbox, well lubed and the cable receiver spins, stuck the cable end in and it spins ... Wondering if the cable receiver in the gearbox has rounded to the point were it can't over come the friction in the cable for the 1/2 inch. Stuck some flat tooth picks to fill the space and will test tonight. This won't last long if it works.

Shortening the sheath is one solution , any other thoughts?
 
Niagara850 said:
IckTaylor , curious to know how you fixed the situation. I'm in the same boat and considering Kerinortons solution. Cable and gear box replaced 2000 miles ago, working fine until last week when the speedo went intermittent and gave it up half way on a 120 mile ride. Tested cable from gearbox end with drill, cable and clock fine. Pulled and lubed the cable anyway, not broken, ends square. Measured about an inch of space in the gearbox receiving end and about a 1/2 inch of cable out from the end of the sheath. So the cable could be longer relative to the sheath. Pulled the gearbox, well lubed and the cable receiver spins, stuck the cable end in and it spins ... Wondering if the cable receiver in the gearbox has rounded to the point were it can't over come the friction in the cable for the 1/2 inch. Stuck some flat tooth picks to fill the space and will test tonight. This won't last long if it works.

Shortening the sheath is one solution , any other thoughts?

Is it possible the sheathing pulled out of the ferrule slightly at the drive end causing it to dis engage?
Pete
 
People!

you do not put up with original Lucas point system.
so why deal with mechanical speedo / tach stuff ???

Loose the cables / fittings / third world gear drives... go electric!!!
 
tomspro said:
People!

you do not put up with original Lucas point system.
so why deal with mechanical speedo / tach stuff ???

Loose the cables / fittings / third world gear drives... go electric!!!

Step it up another notch, go electronic - GPS!
Ta.
 
Niagara850 said:
IckTaylor , curious to know how you fixed the situation. I'm in the same boat and considering Kerinortons solution. Cable and gear box replaced 2000 miles ago, working fine until last week when the speedo went intermittent and gave it up half way on a 120 mile ride. Tested cable from gearbox end with drill, cable and clock fine. Pulled and lubed the cable anyway, not broken, ends square. Measured about an inch of space in the gearbox receiving end and about a 1/2 inch of cable out from the end of the sheath. So the cable could be longer relative to the sheath. Pulled the gearbox, well lubed and the cable receiver spins, stuck the cable end in and it spins ... Wondering if the cable receiver in the gearbox has rounded to the point were it can't over come the friction in the cable for the 1/2 inch. Stuck some flat tooth picks to fill the space and will test tonight. This won't last long if it works.

Shortening the sheath is one solution , any other thoughts?

Better hardware stores will carry little brass washers that you can use to raise the Speedo end of the cable. You have to ream the ID of the washers slightly.
 
I use a Garmin 200 also but want the odometer and I like things to work. I measured 7/16 from the stopper at the top end of the cable and thought my problem was length into the gearbox. I took another look at the speedo end with the cable in the ferule and it only sticks out about 5/16 when its at the bottom. Maybe the tip of the cable broke, can't tell from looking at it. Odd though, spin the gearbox end with a drill and the speedo registers, spin the back tire and the cable turns at the speedo end... The hunt for washers is on , hopefully won't pull the cable out of the gearbox
 
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