Sleeved Amals

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That link didn't seem to go anywhere Glen, but yes, I'm hoping for a steady idle, around 1K of course. This will be the crème de la crème if it works, it was 60 today so things are warming up, but there's still a lot of mud on the drive and I don't even take the Miata in the mud.

I'll certainly report on how it goes.

Dave
 
DogT

Can't wait till the INOA Rally is in Asheville, not too far from your area. Great riding in Virginia and the Carolinas. I stopped at a winery west of Richmond that had Norton wine. It would make a great sponsor for the rally.
Skyline Drive had one of the nicest campgrounds I have ever stayed at. Run by the Feds, deer walking around all over the place.
Everyone should have Skyline drive and the Blue Ridge Parkway on their riding Bucket List.

MF
 
Not an engineer or a mechanic?
You bore the body and sleeve the slide because the body has a slot for the slides locating tab.
You can not put a "thin" sleeve in the carb body with a cut through slot and have the sleeve stay in place. A thick sleeve with intergal slot will almost be as thick as the original carb body and VERY expensive to make .

I could resleeve carbs if I wanted to, but Bruce @ triton machine gets my work and instead I do other types of norton projects.
 
I recovered a pair of Amals the bores and slides were beat to fluted textured air leak gaps so idle impossible below 2000 rpm by getting the new anodized slides with one size less cut away, #3 instead of #3.5 to idle as low as I dare. If anything this gave a bit more low down off idle richness response too. I did not try to clean up the bores fluted wavy worn out texture and still very pleased with the wide scope of prefect throttle and tuning response, like lugging with cargo up very loose steeps on Gravel or wet grass on high-ish throttle w/o stumble or stall or surprise over power rev up spin out. If that don't do it in your case you still are ahead of the game as can still use the anodized slides regardless.
 
DogT said:
That link didn't seem to go anywhere Glen, but yes, I'm hoping for a steady idle, around 1K of course. This will be the crème de la crème if it works, it was 60 today so things are warming up, but there's still a lot of mud on the drive and I don't even take the Miata in the mud.

I'll certainly report on how it goes.

Dave
Click to expand...
this might work

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1ThSi1wbqU
 
My ole P!! dragster was set to loopy 600 when I got it and Trixie Combat retrived before Katina struck started up - settled down to impressive to me 450 easy as ya please but my JD Poppin Johnny twin tractor cleat buster settles down to 240-ish but that's like mid range rpm for a one lung Lister type and WOT on ole hit and missers flywheel pleasers. I like Cdo @ 900 for road use as 1000 is a bit bussy to me but when I arrive at bike gathering, which takes effort not to out here, I set tumb screw slides down to 600 ish and folks tend to cluster to gather the puff balls. Its definitely a harmful practice as so many other things in life bad for us, for a time. I love hearing my Popping Johnny in back ground pulling a trailer to collect storm debrie with me walking all over here and there dragging limbs back while its idling in great great grand ma 1st about .3 mph but in no danger of stalling. I just climb back on and giver the gas 1800 rpm 3rd top gear hauling ass away maybe 4.5 mph. Plowing or bladding when it hits a big root or rock knob it simple stalls right down silent but for a slight inhaling noise then the governor kicks carb throttle WOT KAPOW KAPOW KAPOW POW POW POW POW>>> digs in and carries on through the root and a few bounce back rehits and the rock shears off too then PUtt PUtt PUtt then the next tough spot.

Sleeved Amals

Gotten from 89 yr old who'd modified with two red vertical posts replacing brake peddles so when the plow dug into virgin deep sod and the front tires lift off surface could steer like a dozer...
 
hobot said:
My ole P!! dragster was set to loopy 600 when I got it and Trixie Combat retrived before Katina struck started up - settled down to impressive to me 450 easy as ya please but my JD Poppin Johnny twin tractor cleat buster settles down to 240-ish but that's like mid range rpm for a one lung Lister type and WOT on ole hit and missers flywheel pleasers. I like Cdo @ 900 for road use as 1000 is a bit bussy to me but when I arrive at bike gathering, which takes effort not to out here, I set tumb screw slides down to 600 ish and folks tend to cluster to gather the puff balls. Its definitely a harmful practice as so many other things in life bad for us, for a time. I love hearing my Popping Johnny in back ground pulling a trailer to collect storm debrie with me walking all over here and there dragging limbs back while its idling in great great grand ma 1st about .3 mph but in no danger of stalling. I just climb back on and giver the gas 1800 rpm 3rd top gear hauling ass away maybe 4.5 mph. Plowing or bladding when it hits a big root or rock knob it simple stalls right down silent but for a slight inhaling noise then the governor kicks carb throttle WOT KAPOW KAPOW KAPOW POW POW POW POW>>> digs in and carries on through the root and a few bounce back rehits and the rock shears off too then PUtt PUtt PUtt then the next tough spot.

Sleeved Amals

Gotten from 89 yr old who'd modified with two red vertical posts replacing brake peddles so when the plow dug into virgin deep sod and the front tires lift off surface could steer like a dozer...
Click to expand...

Hobot, is that really a JD LA? I know the L and the LA had 3 longitudinal round tubes that made up the "frame" as it were, with one being a large center backbone tube that enclosed the driveshaft and the other two were smaller dia. on each side of the backbone. (See photos below, the L first and the LA below that). This one you posted looks to have a conventional rect. tube perimeter frame; looks like a Shaw or Economy that's been painted JD green. Am I wrong? I almost bought one once to restore.

Sleeved Amals

Sleeved Amals
 
Hehehe Larso that's the best intact LA view i've ever seen and very revealing to me as very very hard to find online photo's and more so at rallys or for sale. Mine has had a very hard life long decades before I was a sparkle in my daddys eyes. Oklahoma man used it for his own and others big gardens and said he'd owned 13. I ended up with his first & last one. He must of taken stuff off to make the others right. He extended frame to fit 2 trannies and claimed 40-ish mph hwy pulling trailer with long Model T bearings. Only thing LA left in the radiator, engine and the rear end/wheels. He'd shorted in back for one WWII Duce and half tranny when I got it. Frame is two box beams with some RR track scabbed in and Rub Goldberg links throttle to carb, brakes, clutch and throw out pivot and implement holders/levers. It got so worn out bore/rings/valves/clutch etc I parked it to go thru it but got caught up with Motorcycles and homestead biggies so its another suspended recovery project for a while more. Its was a hit at the few festivals I took it too and would leave it idle softly deeply in back ground after a crawling around the fair grounds. It was a flat lander tractor when I got it but almost killed me climbing slope and diagonals till I put a crank case in on front with broke wheel weights and had tire water/radiator coolant filled. Oh La LA that made way more effective and 'safe'. I had to take a bunch of other stuff he forced on me, wall full of spare parts and 3 types of PTO's that attach to rear of clutch to drive mills and pumps and saws.
 
:D Well the radiator and the exhaust look to be in the right place anyway. That's definitely a highly modified LA!
 
Apparently my 'customized' hillbilly LA also had wrong carb on it as I found a copper foil piece glued over a gasket hole and dang thing wouldn't run till I taped over it too. Someday will figure out what going on with that mystery. The old fart had jury rigged coat hangers and springs to compensate for bad governor setting but I got that squared away. I have found old tractor forums very useful for stuck or fractured fasteners and various way to remove rust etc. Btw the old man had put a house light switch on the steering stalk that worked an old school police siren so if injured in the field [entirely likely with really using these old things] someone might find him before bled to death. Its like finding a Commando engine and tranny but frame bad or missing so nothing for it but chop it eh.
 
worntorn said:
DogT said:
That link didn't seem to go anywhere Glen, but yes, I'm hoping for a steady idle, around 1K of course. This will be the crème de la crème if it works, it was 60 today so things are warming up, but there's still a lot of mud on the drive and I don't even take the Miata in the mud.

I'll certainly report on how it goes.

Dave
Click to expand...
this might work

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1ThSi1wbqU
Click to expand...

I tried to play along but my Taylor kept stalling!

MF
 
commando6868 said:
worntorn said:
DogT said:
That link didn't seem to go anywhere Glen, but yes, I'm hoping for a steady idle, around 1K of course. This will be the crème de la crème if it works, it was 60 today so things are warming up, but there's still a lot of mud on the drive and I don't even take the Miata in the mud.

I'll certainly report on how it goes.

Dave
Click to expand...
this might work

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a1ThSi1wbqU
Click to expand...

I tried to play along but my Taylor kept stalling!

MF
Click to expand...
My Taylor 310 did the same thing.
LOL :mrgreen:
CNN
 
My D-28 didn't stall, but the fingers did, mostly from lack of use.
 
I put the carbs on tonight, but it's supposed to start snowing again tomorrow and it was too late to put the tank and fuel lines on. So it's probably going to be next week or so to see what happens. I guess I've now got a pair of anodized slides that are for sale. Maybe an hour on them at most.

I got new extra light strings for the D28 but it still hurts my fingers, it's going to be a while on that one too. Need to figure out St. Louie Tickle again if you remember Dave van Ronk.

Dave
 
DogT said:
I put the carbs on tonight, but it's supposed to start snowing again tomorrow and it was too late to put the tank and fuel lines on. So it's probably going to be next week or so to see what happens. I guess I've now got a pair of anodized slides that are for sale. Maybe an hour on them at most.

I got new extra light strings for the D28 but it still hurts my fingers, it's going to be a while on that one too. Need to figure out St. Louie Tickle again if you remember Dave van Ronk.

Dave
Click to expand...

Keep playing, your fingers will stop feeling it. Sort of like riding an old Triumph Trophy 500 down the New Jersey Turnpike, eventually the vibrations make you hands and butt go numb, doesn't hurt anymore! :mrgreen:

Mick
 
Yeah, the fingers stopped hurting yesterday, so maybe another day I'll get back on it. I remember it was like that until I got some callouses built up.
 
Yes, yes, yes. This is the way sex should be. Took a few kicks to get it started but on initial setup, idled at about 1500, dialed the idle jet and lowered the idle to about 1200, went for a ride about 2 miles to the mailbox and back and it stayed at 1200 the whole time when I took my hand off the throttle. Set it down to 1000 when I got back and then it died because I messed with the idle jet again. But all in all I think after a few rides and getting it tuned, it's going to work just fine. I'm hoping it will get easier to start again when the carbs get set up.

Had an issue with the rear brake switch, need to replace that piece of junk with a proper micro-switch plus after 3 years now the AGM is still at 12.7V.

Now if I don't have any more back issues, maybe I can get some riding in.

Dave
69S
 
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