re sleeve kit fitted

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Head

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Jan 26, 2021
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well folks,

i fitted an rgm re sleeve 13mm kit to my standard 74 850 ,i installed a braided line and ebc pads, the difference was amazing ,loads of feel now and massive stopping power to previous set up,

i have done 1k now on new complete top end rebuild using the top spec parts, i went to re torque the head and all was perfect
question is it safe now to push on with more revs and speed, i normally ride at 80mph have not gone past 65 to 70 for last few months
is the norton good for 80 to 90 mph on a regular baqsis ?
the bike has a single mikuni carb kit runs perfect and hot or cold starts first kick everytime even after few weeks lay up still starts first kick
now that my brakes are great i just want to push her on in terms of the speed, any help or advice be great folks thank u
 
I too have fitted the master cylinder reduction kit although I would be a little less rapturous about its effect. For me, it transformed my front brake from truly appalling to acceptable. Can’t remember what pads I fitted but seem to recall they were organic. I suspect other pads may have been better.
As for breaking in, many might disagree but I think there is a lot myths around running engines in, some of it approaching religious ritual rather than a method to ensure controlled wear to bed in various components, particularly piston rings.
Aircraft engines (piston) are recommended to be run in at high power settings (75% maximum power) with an ‘inferior’ straight mineral oil. This is replaced with a high grade ashless dispersant oil at 25 hours or when oil consumption stabilises, which ever comes first.
I would initially run the engine on a budget mineral oil (with zinc) before changing to a high quality oil. Certainly I would avoid ‘lugging‘ the engine but use generous throttle openings over a wide range of revs to ensure high cylinder pressures to force the rings out against the bore. Try to avoid heavy traffic and extended idling.
My feeling is that if the engine is not run in by 1000km it will never be run in.
As for maximum sustained speed i try to keep my bike below 5000rpm when cruising which I guess is around 80mph for most gearing. Perhaps 75 would be a better target. Above that, there is an awful lot of unbalanced weight thrashing around in the innards of the old motor even if the isolastics tend to mask the worst of it from us.
Just a few thoughts
Alan
 
Last edited:
I have the sleeved master and braided hoses. My front brake was poor and wooden until I put upgraded pads in. Now good.
 
Alan L said:
I too have fitted the master cylinder reduction kit although I would be a little less rapturous about its effect. For me, it transformed my front brake from truly appalling to acceptable. Can’t remember what pads I fitted but seem to recall they were organic. I suspect other pads may have been better.
As for breaking in, many might disagree but I think there is a lot myths around running engines in, some of it approaching religious ritual rather than a method to ensure controlled wear to bed in various components, particularly piston rings.
Aircraft engines (piston) are recommended to be run in at high power settings (75% maximum power) with an ‘inferior’ straight mineral oil. This is replaced with a high grade ashless dispersant oil at 25 hours or when oil consumption stabilises, which ever comes first.
I would initially run the engine on a budget mineral oil (with zinc) before changing to a high quality oil. Certainly I would avoid ‘lugging‘ the engine but use generous throttle openings over a wide range of revs to ensure high cylinder pressures to force the rings out against the bore. Try to avoid heavy traffic and extended idling.
My feeling is that if the engine is not run in by 1000km it will never be run in.
As for maximum sustained speed i try to keep my bike below 5000rpm when cruising which I guess is around 80mph for most gearing. Perhaps 75 would be a better target. Above that, there is an awful lot of unbalanced weight thrashing around in the innards of the old motor even if the isolastics tend to mask the worst of it from us.
Just a few thoughts
Alan
Click to expand...
thanks Alan, i literally got no more torque out of head it was all as by the book so thats done now,whats the best oil to use on motor ?
 
Stainless brake line with 13mm is great, especially with modern rubber. Even with such great upgrades over original remember to be prudent with the ever growing number of idiots on the road these days.
Knowing that all components are in top shape, 90 mph would be the upper limit for a long haul. (750 with a 19 tooth). I've done a bit above that, but conditions were exceptional.
Riding 400 series roads is just not something real enjoyable, so sticking to good secondaries & knowing the cost of tickets and pavement conditions should keep you well within a good Norton's capabilities.
As for post run-in motor oil I have used Castrol 20-50 synthetic for over 70,000 miles on a late 1973 750 roadster & still going strong (Built it in 1991). Cams still right on spec, and no follower issues either. Valve lash almost never needed any adjustment. My 2 cents
Cheers
 
Mart UK said:
I have the sleeved master and braided hoses. My front brake was poor and wooden until I put upgraded pads in. Now good.
Click to expand...
Hey mate do u have a close up pic of ur brake lever I getting air and fluid back out thru my piston
 

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Looks the same as mine I’m lost to why it sounds like air coming from piston may check again tomorrow thank u
 
I heard that on some bikes it is possible to over squeeze the brake lever, when bleeding, which dislodges a seal. Not heard of it on Commandos, but perhaps the sleeve kit changes things slightly. Maybe wrap something round the grip next time, to stop you pulling it back all the way?
 
up date folks, fitted resleeve kit over a week ago, i tied lever in for couple nights to get air out of system worked great after, i have good feel now to brakes, i still hear what sounds like air when i pull the lever but no fluid leaking out through lever so far, maybe its the noise from the piston seals going in and out anyways thanks again for all your help ,will keep updating once i get some miles on her
 
Mart UK said:
I heard that on some bikes it is possible to over squeeze the brake lever, when bleeding, which dislodges a seal. Not heard of it on Commandos, but perhaps the sleeve kit changes things slightly. Maybe wrap something round the grip next time, to stop you pulling it back all the way?
Click to expand...
This could be the warning not to use full lever pulls on older MC's b/c this puts the seal past its normal working area of the bore into potentially rough/unworn in area, giving rise to seal damage. This is why gravity bleeding is a good option for classic bikes and cars. I've used that a few times now and seems to work nicely. It just take a bit more time waiting for the drips out bleeders instead of squirts.
 
Does anyone know where I can get a repair (rebuild) kit for my sleeved master?

It has the plastic piston. Pretty sure Morie's place did the work.

TIA
 
concours said:
Does anyone know where I can get a repair (rebuild) kit for my sleeved master?

It has the plastic piston. Pretty sure Morie's place did the work.

TIA
Click to expand...
Is it this one? (Which will be no help to you, though, sorry!):

andover-norton.co.uk

Motorcycle parts and spares for Norton motorbikes - Genuine Andover Norton Spare Parts - Andover Norton Motorcycles Parts - Original Andover Norton Parts

Motorcycle parts and spares for Andover Norton motorbikes: Andover Norton manufactures and supplies all Genuine Factory Spare Parts for Norton motorcycles built before 2002.
andover-norton.co.uk
 
Tornado said:
This could be the warning not to use full lever pulls on older MC's b/c this puts the seal past its normal working area of the bore into potentially rough/unworn in area, giving rise to seal damage. This is why gravity bleeding is a good option for classic bikes and cars. I've used that a few times now and seems to work nicely. It just take a bit more time waiting for the drips out bleeders instead of squirts.
Click to expand...
Are you saying we should not use our brakes when necessary to do an emergency stop. I don't think so. If I have to stop in a hurry, I will. That comment is out of order.
 

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