Skyguyz starts the rebuild........

Skyguyz · Jan 5, 2012

I haven't started the rebuild on my Commado yet.....but out of curiosity, what size is the hex on the nut/bolt head that we're talking about? I could fabricate a wrench from some flat stock, while waiting for Spring, as my Commando is in winter storge taking a long nap and is difficult to get to.

Thanks,
Ray

It should be a 9/16"
But this is for the CNW chain guard. Not sure about the stock unit. I believe the stock unit is able to fit a open end wrench on it?

OldBalz · Jan 5, 2012

Skyguyz said:
I haven't started the rebuild on my Commado yet.....but out of curiosity, what size is the hex on the nut/bolt head that we're talking about? I could fabricate a wrench from some flat stock, while waiting for Spring, as my Commando is in winter storge taking a long nap and is difficult to get to.

Thanks,
Ray

Click to expand...

It should be a 9/16"
But this is for the CNW chain guard. Not sure about the stock unit. I believe the stock unit is able to fit a open end wrench on it?

Thanks.....I appreciate it.

Ray

DogT · Jan 5, 2012

My original had a thin headed bolt in there from the get go. I can't remember if the Burton one would take a regular bolt, if it did, I probably mashed it down so it wouldn't. All those guards have minimal clearance, mine hit the shock, so I put a washer under the shock so it stuck out a bit more.

Dave
69S

pete.v · Jan 5, 2012

DogT said:
My original had a thin headed bolt in there from the get go. I can't remember if the Burton one would take a regular bolt, if it did, I probably mashed it down so it wouldn't. All those guards have minimal clearance, mine hit the shock, so I put a washer under the shock so it stuck out a bit more.

Dave
69S

Looks like you are at the end of your brake adjustment. Better check dem chews, man.

DogT · Jan 5, 2012

Yes, I got new rear and front shoes for Norty for Xmas. RGM high friction for the front which means I need to sand them in again. As soon as I get it in the shop, it'll be ready for spring. I knew I was on my last legs on the rear ones.

Dave
69S

pete.v · Jan 5, 2012

DogT said:
RGM high friction for the front which means I need to sand them in again.
Dave
69S

Hey, I am installing a set of those right now too. Exactly what is the procedure for sanding in? Not meaning to hijack, you can PM me if too lengthly.

pete.v · Jan 5, 2012

OOPS!

duplicate

Skyguyz · Jan 6, 2012

Got the Dave Taylor head steady polished and it looks much better. Many tool marks came with the unit. Overall, nice product.

Skyguyz · Jan 9, 2012

Front wheel & stuff

So, I got the front fender, wheel, handlebars, horn, (temp), turn signals & brake attached. Just have to hook up the line and presto, front brake! (*yes, I do have the self bleeding system.) I will have to "bed" the brake once I get this thing running. I used some hard rubber washers on the fender mounts. Just seemed like the thing to do with the nice paint.

The Jim Comstock hydraulic clutch will really provide the "feel" that I like.

Front turn signals attached to coil bracket.

Horn. *Doubt it if this goes here. I haven't got the battery box back & the flat slide carbs air filters may encroach. We will see.

DogT · Jan 9, 2012

How can you even think of putting the horn there, you'll never get the bike apart again.

Dave
69S

Skyguyz · Jan 9, 2012

DogT said:
How can you even think of putting the horn there, you'll never get the bike apart again.

Dave
69S

???

As noted, it is a "temp" placement. Not sure what you mean.

Torontonian · Jan 9, 2012

Build the bike around the horn. And it should face forward ,with a relay direct to battery.

DogT · Jan 10, 2012

Skyguyz said:
. Not sure what you mean.

It's a worn out phrase that "The Norton is built around the horn", if you've ever had to put the horn back on in standard fitment.

Dave
69S

rvich · Jan 10, 2012

It's just a tough place to (stock placement) get to once everything else is assembled on a stock bike. And since the orginal horn tended to be a POS that actually had to be adjusted (although I doubt anybody ever did), it means there are a lot of stock bikes still running around without functioning horns. The rest have been upgraded or the owner has learned new swear words while keeping the original intact. Although it looks to me like yours would end up in the battery box rather than below it.

The bike is looking great. I am still assembling bits for mine and working out some details. I did get the rims I bought from you mounted up and am in the process of truing them up.

Russ

cjandme · Jan 10, 2012

Sweet!! might want to use some nyloc nuts though. But really looking nice. Cj

Skyguyz · Jan 10, 2012

The bike is looking great. I am still assembling bits for mine and working out some details. I did get the rims I bought from you mounted up and am in the process of truing them up.

Great Russ. Those wheels were a hard choice to let go, but I'm glad you are putting them to good use. Thanks for the nice words.

Sweet!! might want to use some nyloc nuts though. But really looking nice. Cj

Cj, I'll look into that. Given the propensity of shaking with these Nortons, a good call.

I got the back wheel assembly on. The electronic pickup has those wires hanging down. The new cush rubber made it a bear to seat the sprocket drum. A little tech tip from the wizard Gary at CNW of using a little dish soap helped the fitment. Yes, the turn signals are on upside down, (weep holes at top.) I was made aware of this and will switch em around. Hummm, you guys never had something like that happen eh? : )

*I just placed the tank, seat, and one side cover on for a mock-up view. It looks bare without the taillight assembly and I think there is some stuff missing in the middle?

Tintin · Jan 12, 2012

Skyguyz said:
Yes, the turn signals are on upside down,...

You'll be really surprised now: The turn signal are not sufficiently bling-bling for my taste! :wink:

I'm going to use these on my Atlas - despite their questionable origin. :twisted:

Tim

Skyguyz · Feb 5, 2012

Some late progress....

Got the front ISO in the front engine cradle boss. Went in fairly easy without to much persuasion.

Temp fit to frame. Fitment is perfect. Thanks to Fred Eaton of Old Britts and his article,http://www.oldbritts.com/ob_start.html about powder coat masking.

Side cover done. *All new stainless bolts and rubber grommet.

Battery box installed, (*modifed version from CNW.)

Just a close up of the electronic pickup for the speedo. *Note absence of speedometer gearbox.

Back brake all hooked up.

Thats it for now. My engine and gear box will be ready to install in 2-3 weeks and then I will build the electrical harness. Then it will be close to done.

DogT · Feb 5, 2012

You've made it look like a modern or new bike, but you had to go and put that 69/70 chain guard on. I like all the chrome at the rear brake, really cleans it up.

Dave
69S

Skyguyz · Feb 5, 2012

but you had to go and put that 69/70 chain guard on.

Actually, it's one of the first batch of new style all SS polished CMW products. I think it is better than the two piece OEM guard that also rubs the chain. IMHO.

Skyguyz starts the rebuild........

Similar threads