simple wiring harness build

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kwb210

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Dec 2, 2009
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I'm working on my 1975 but if this is successful I'll probably make one for the 1970 too. The 1975 no longer has electric start or any other "stuff" either. It currently has the 2 leads out of the points box that will go to the Boyer and 2 leads that come from the alternator. Pretty simple.
I'm wiring my bike on a VERY simple format. I'll have ignition, lights (headlight and taillight), and horn, a kill switch too. I'm looking at Eastern Beaver's 3 Circuit Solution ( 3CS), it has 3 fuses or 3 power leads and you can switch them on and off. http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Produ ... rcuit.html

Does full battery power go directly into the fuse panel? This is what I have in mind. Battery w/ 14ga wire to fuse panel. The panel is dead until switched on and it is switched on via the master/key switch, 1st to IGN position where the fuse box terminal #1 becomes hot and gives juice to the ignition system, now I can start the bike. Nothing else is energized or hot. When master/key switch is moved to L (lights AND ignition) the switches # 2 & #3 also become hot. #2 is lights and #3 is horn. That's all I am running. No turn signals. I am planning on asking Eastern Beaver to custom make the unit to change from the pictured unit, a one switching lead that fires all 3 fuses to instead have 2 switching leads, one lead will fire/energize one fuse/circuit, the IGN circuit, and the 2nd lead will energize circuits #2 & #3 and be connected to the master/key switch position L. I may only need one switched lead as turning the key switch from IGN to L may be enough to energize the add'l 2 circuits, lights and horn. The idea is to avoid running all the current into and out of the ignition switch. Am I running down the right path? :?:
Kurt
 
I kept mine even simpler , Bat to 30a fuse(in line weatherproof blade)- fuse to ignition toggle sw (or key sw if you prefer) mine is 25a weatherproof toggle , and also to headlight sw(another 25a wp toggle) , headlight sw to tail light and hi/lo sw, ignition toggle sw to ignition circuit , Add the rest where appropriate. Been like this for 6 years never any trouble. The more things you put in the more things to go wrong in the dark and rain in the middle of nowhere, and the more things you put in the harder it is to find a fault.
 
Just a comment...

One thing to consider with custom wiring harnesses, unless the bike will never belong to anyone else, is that nothing in a Norton service manual is applicable to any wiring on the bike UNLESS you use the same color wiring (which you can buy) for whatever circuits that you do use. IOW, if the new wires to the ignition are black/yellow and black/white then it would correspond to the service manual elec diagram.

IMHO the only issue with the standard harness is the Lucas bullet connectors which can corrode and cause the typical problems. But if you break the connection, clean the contacts with de-oxit or something like that and apply di-electric grease to the contacts and remake the connection, you will never have a problem. You can also cut off the Lucas connectors and replace them with crimp-on Ancor marine terminals - still using the dielectric grease on all connections. One other thing - all the lucas bullets/females are soldered onto the harness. Note that soldering is not recommended in marine applications due to vibration considerations - only crimp connectors are recommended. Seems that since a Norton vibrates considerably more than a boat that the same "recommendations" should apply! ;)

In any case, if I was interested in a custom harness, I would make up my own harness as dero did rather than purchase that item from eastern beaver.
 
I was taught in the Navy (Aviation Ground Support Electrician), that a mechanical connection (crimp) is the MOST important thing to consider, whether you solder or not. Crimp, then test with a good solid pull to ensure the crimp will not pull loose. IF you are going to solder, do so ONLY after you test the mechanical crimp.

i don't worry about color-coded wires, because I produce my own "as built" wiring diagrams and insert them in the project binder or shop manual.
 
MexicoMike said:
Just a comment...

One thing to consider with custom wiring harnesses, unless the bike will never belong to anyone else, is that nothing in a Norton service manual is applicable to any wiring on the bike UNLESS you use the same color wiring (which you can buy) for whatever circuits that you do use. IOW, if the new wires to the ignition are black/yellow and black/white then it would correspond to the service manual elec diagram.
Click to expand...

How many Nortons have not been messed with electrically over the years? I'm guessing maybe %20. Of that %20 of bikes, I'm betting the owners are doing all the work. I would think since your omitting a lot of the standard harness I would not worry about making things true to the Norton manual. Just build yourself a nice clean harness and any future work needed will be easy to follow and figure out, but you're probably the one doing the work so you'll know what you did anyway. If you sell the bike, tell the new owner what is what.
 
"How many Nortons have not been messed with electrically over the years? I'm guessing maybe %20."

Heck, I'd guess 0 % !! :)

But having purchased used cars/bike/boats I can say that very few sellers are going to actually tell you what electrical wiring changes they made...if they can remember anyway. I totally agree that if you make changes, they should look/be professional and be documented/ inserted in your shop manual or wherever.

Most folks looking for "vintage" vehicles of any kind will pay considerably more for totally original wiring than for changed wiring. The fact that you and I do superb electrical work doesn't mean that some other guy who I don't know and never saw until I went to buy his bike/car/boat did... :)

In the used boat world, wiring done that it not IAW factory wiring and meeting the required standards means a rather large "discount" on a selling price. Wiring is certainly added for additional components and if it corresponds with factory wiring - correct color, routing, connections, etc, it's not an issue. But if it's not of that quality, then it immediately generates questions of "what else is wrong that I CAN'T see?" Admittedly, it's not too hard to see/figure out all the wiring on a Norton. ;)
 
I have to agree with Mike. Having worked on a number of British bikes that an enterprising owner decided to re-wire with only red, white and black wires, any attempt to keep to the original wiring colors makes troubleshooting much faster. While GrandPaul includes a copy of a wiring diagram with his work, the likelihood that this will be given to the mechanic working on it is slim. And let's face it, if the owner was going to be the one to work on it, he would have built it, not GrandPaul.

To the original topic. kwb210, I guess you have discarded any idea of using separate relays, so I won't go there. :( That Eastern Beaver setup is fine for adding circuits, but probably not the best for a main harness. You can use some of the components, but if you want that relay to turn on the power to the circuits, you will still need separate power to your keyswitch, preferrably fused.
I don't see that single relay as doing you much good. You might as well run a fused lead to the hot side of the keyswitch and connect the separarte switched leads from the key to each of the fused runs.
 
Ron L said:
I have to agree with Mike. Having worked on a number of British bikes that an enterprising owner decided to re-wire with only red, white and black wires, any attempt to keep to the original wiring colors makes troubleshooting much faster. While GrandPaul includes a copy of a wiring diagram with his work, the likelihood that this will be given to the mechanic working on it is slim. And let's face it, if the owner was going to be the one to work on it, he would have built it, not GrandPaul.



To the original topic. kwb210, I guess you have discarded any idea of using separate relays, so I won't go there. :( That Eastern Beaver setup is fine for adding circuits, but probably not the best for a main harness. You can use some of the components, but if you want that relay to turn on the power to the circuits, you will still need separate power to your keyswitch, preferrably fused.
I don't see that single relay as doing you much good. You might as well run a fused lead to the hot side of the keyswitch and connect the separarte switched leads from the key to each of the fused runs.
Click to expand...


I agree with the comments, ideally the stock harness should be in place. In this bike it came to me w/ a "custom" harness and no diagram plus some odd color combinations. Because the bike is so far from stock I decided to keep it simple for now. I have collected a few stock parts and intend to continue doing that in case I decide to return it to stock, which I agree will improve its value.

Thanks for comment, I agree w/ not needing the single relay, probably simpler to do as you suggest, running a fused lead to the hot side of the keyswitch and connecting the separate switched leads from the key to each of the fused runs. Yeah, I like that.

I'm not sure on relays, which is why I did not mention them.
 
If you decide to build up the loom yourself, you might as well adopt the color-code standard of the OEM harnesses. British Wiring will supply all of the required wiring, as well as multi-pin connectors and bullets. However, if you're determined to go your own way, at least adopt the power bus standard, namely:

For Positive Ground Looms:
"Hot" (-12v): Blue-Brown
Ground: Red
Switched: White

For Negative Ground Looms:
"Hot" (+12v): Red
Ground: Black
Switched: White

If you decide on a negative-ground system, the Mk3 assimilator will not work, and you will have to find another method to preserve the ignition light function, or buy a negative-ground assimilator.

If you want to keep high currents out of the ignition switch, install relays in the headlight high and low circuits, as well as the horn circuit, as all modern bikes do.
 
rick in seattle said:
If you decide to build up the loom yourself, you might as well adopt the color-code standard of the OEM harnesses. British Wiring will supply all of the required wiring, as well as multi-pin connectors and bullets. However, if you're determined to go your own way, at least adopt the power bus standard, namely:

For Positive Ground Looms:
"Hot" (-12v): Blue-Brown
Ground: Red
Switched: White

For Negative Ground Looms:
"Hot" (+12v): Red
Ground: Black
Switched: White

If you decide on a negative-ground system, the Mk3 assimilator will not work, and you will have to find another method to preserve the ignition light function, or buy a negative-ground assimilator.

If you want to keep high currents out of the ignition switch, install relays in the headlight high and low circuits, as well as the horn circuit, as all modern bikes do.
Click to expand...

Good advice, I do plan on keeping as near to stock colors as possible, it just makes sense. I will stay with the original positive ground system.
And your thoughts on high currents out of the ign switch, that's good, I'll get 2 relays for lights and horn. BTW, thoughts on where or brand of relays? The Eastern Beaver site has small sized relays that look like they would lay nice and flat, like a thick stick of gum, however I did not see any mention of them selling just a relay.
Kurt
 
ludwig said:
Whatever you do , make several copies of the diagram , and always keep a copy on the bike , like in the headlampshell .
Click to expand...

Excellent idea.
 
I used standard automotive relays, as I don't ride the Norton in the wet. However, I recommend that you buy them (you'll need 3, not 2) at a motorcycle shop (Harley comes to mind) where you'll have an easier time finding hermetic relays.

You may want to look at swooshdave's thread from yesterday. Also, you can pull down my complete positive-ground Mk3 harness diagrams (there are 2, main and ignition):

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu10 ... iagram.gif

http://i638.photobucket.com/albums/uu10 ... iagram.gif
 
Why not just get switches that can take the current?
I go by the KISS theory - keep it simple stupid
 
I guess Im fortunate in that I dont need one , just got 1 ig toggle and 1 lighting toggle . Luxury
 
kwb210 said:
Ron L said:
I have to agree with Mike. Having worked on a number of British bikes that an enterprising owner decided to re-wire with only red, white and black wires, any attempt to keep to the original wiring colors makes troubleshooting much faster. While GrandPaul includes a copy of a wiring diagram with his work, the likelihood that this will be given to the mechanic working on it is slim. And let's face it, if the owner was going to be the one to work on it, he would have built it, not GrandPaul.



To the original topic. kwb210, I guess you have discarded any idea of using separate relays, so I won't go there. :( That Eastern Beaver setup is fine for adding circuits, but probably not the best for a main harness. You can use some of the components, but if you want that relay to turn on the power to the circuits, you will still need separate power to your keyswitch, preferrably fused.
I don't see that single relay as doing you much good. You might as well run a fused lead to the hot side of the keyswitch and connect the separarte switched leads from the key to each of the fused runs.
Click to expand...


I agree with the comments, ideally the stock harness should be in place. In this bike it came to me w/ a "custom" harness and no diagram plus some odd color combinations. Because the bike is so far from stock I decided to keep it simple for now. I have collected a few stock parts and intend to continue doing that in case I decide to return it to stock, which I agree will improve its value.

Thanks for comment, I agree w/ not needing the single relay, probably simpler to do as you suggest, running a fused lead to the hot side of the keyswitch and connecting the separate switched leads from the key to each of the fused runs. Yeah, I like that.

I'm not sure on relays, which is why I did not mention them.
Click to expand...

All valid points.

By suggesting you stray away from stock and build your own harness, I assumed you would not sell the bike. If you plan on selling it, sure stick with stock. If you never plan on parting with the machine, than who cares how original it is. My bike is far from a stock machine so I built a harness how I'd want it. Simple, neat and effective with half the clutter and B.S. of the stock harness.
 
dero said:
Why not just get switches that can take the current?
I go by the KISS theory - keep it simple stupid
Click to expand...

Works if you don't want to keep the stock switches.
 
Eastern Beaver site has small sized relays that look like they would lay nice and flat, like a thick stick of gum, however I did not see any mention of them selling just a relay.
Click to expand...

Eastern Beaver does sell the miniature Panasonic relays, but they are also available from either Mouser or Digi-Key.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Elec__Products/Relays/relays.html

They save some space, but I usually use the 1" cube type "Bosch" or Omron relays. What you save in diameter, you lose in length with the Panasonics. And they are much cheaper.
 
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