Rocker Feed Oil Lines

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Thought I'd reach out to you folks for help with replacing the rocker feed oil lines on my stock '73 Interstate. Venhill has a stainless braided line kit. It seem from reviewing this site, this product has issues with the metallic jacket, length, routing, etc. I like the OEM look Andover offers, (06-5561) but it's not available to me locally. I've reviewed most threads here and found lots of help. The best I've found is from British Motorcycle Parts, # 06.5561A which looks OEM and is all stainless at: https://www.britishmotorcycleparts....less-steel-rocker-feed?gn=Search Results&gp=4

I don't trust just replacing the tubing with something from an auto parts store unless someone has a suitable line suggestion that survives pressure & temperatures. My original crossover line snapped at the barbed banjo fitting with a light tug by hand. Also, I'm embarrassed to say I lost one of the single barb banjo fittings so I'll probably need a kit.

Thanks in advance for any help,
Dave
 
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I recently bought a whole roll of the correct tubing so I can replace the lines on a bike I’m building. I’m going halves on the roll with Elephant Rider but I will have a lot left over and I’ll post it to you if you like.
 
The original OEM should be available from several USA companies ... if not , Walridge Motors will have it .

I made a new set up years ago when i added a oil pressure gauge using the tubing for air brakes ... Works great but you need to be careful with how much heat you apply to the fitting or the inside of the tubing will roll up inside the tube which will limit oil flow .
 
FYI:
My bike has done about 9000 miles since fitting auto parts store nylon air brake lines, trouble free. Ran about $0.15. Per foot. Used no heat when fitting, just lots of twisting and sore fingers afterwards.
 
Soaking the ends of the nylon tubing in boiling water may help with the installation without destroying the tubing - if you are careful, a heat gun will work too
 
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My recent experience with s/s oil line fittings. I certainly did NOT over torque either. Order an original set from Walridge .
Rocker Feed Oil Lines

Enjoy the ride.
 
Wow! Broken steel fitting going into an aluminum head? Must be the worst quality fitting that it is possible to make using some sort of material resembling metal.
 
I've used air brake line since 1985 on mine. It works great for this purpose. Just warm up the end a little and push it on the fitting, it will shrink down as it cools to make a good tight connection. You can also use a small hose clamp for extra security but don't over tighten it .
 
Derek Wilson said:
Soaking the ends of the nylon tubing in boiling water may help with the installation without destroying the tubing - if you are careful, a heat gun will work too
Click to expand...
The problem with using any heat on this tube is that it stretches the tube permanently and the tube "can" become loose and fail
 
I held the air hose an inch or so from end using a close fitting brake line compression crimping clamp, then just did the twists to get the banjo spigot fully home, took a good few minutes of twisting. Zero signs of oil weep nor movement off spigots after 8+Kmiles. And I still have another eight feet of air line for future bikes ;-). Best $1.50 I've spent on this bike.
 
baz said:
The problem with using any heat on this tube is that it stretches the tube permanently and the tube "can" become loose and fail
Click to expand...
Agreed, the whole idea is to soften it a bit and keep it in the elastic zone. It is going to stretch no matter what you do - you are forcing it over a barb that is larger than the ID of the tube.

( Aside - I run stainless braided ones on my bike - I have a friend with an aerospace hydraulics shop)
 
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Derek Wilson said:
Agreed, the whole idea is to soften it a bit and keep it in the elastic zone. It is going to stretch no matter what you do - you are forcing it over a barb that is larger than the ID of the tube.

( Aside - I run stainless braided ones on my bike - I have a friend with an aerospace hydraulics shop)
Click to expand...
Yep I run stainless rocker feed pipes aswel because it's under fairly high pressure
I think it may have been the Norton owners club "hints and tips" I read you shouldn't heat the tube? So it was known about
 
Tornado said:
Hard to fault the oem tubes that were essentially fine on my bike at 48 yrs old. I only replaced for good measure.
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Yep I'm not faulting them
I only know of one failure of the original tube and that was in extreme heat in extreme traffic
 
I took the Comstock route and drilled my inlet rocker shafts through and eliminated the crossover line. A braided stainless line from the timing case to the R/H side and from the now unused L/H side I ran a line up to an oil pressure gauge. Less chance of leaks and damage under the tank from running a braided line under there.
 
Any tips on how to fit the banjos onto the oil pipe without heat? It’s a bastard to get that tubing over the fetters.
 
Tornado said:
Hard to fault the oem tubes that were essentially fine on my bike at 48 yrs old. I only replaced for good measure.
Click to expand...
Mine failed 150 miles from home on a weekend vacation ride. Cracked at the banjo on the right side of the head. Not a total failure fortunately, I was able to get it home with topping up the tank and wringing hands with angst. It was about 30 years old at that time.
 
maylar said:
Mine failed 150 miles from home on a weekend vacation ride. Cracked at the banjo on the right side of the head. Not a total failure fortunately, I was able to get it home with topping up the tank and wringing hands with angst. It was about 30 years old at that time.
Click to expand...
I'd say that 30 yrs old bit of plastic pipe owed you nothing as it's pennies per foot cost was used up decades before it failed.
 
Best way to fit the air line is to heat the fitting, not the plastic line. Warm up the banjo with a heat gun or similar and push it into the line. Just don't get it too hot.
 
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