making rocker oil lines

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How to make a new rocker oil feed line? I want to use the same or similar material as stock but make a custom length. And fittings? I need a "T"
 
1 Only use black nylon.
2 put in 1/4" flaring tool, sticking out a little longer than normal for flare.
3 pound in fitting with plastic mallet.
4 NEVER USE HEAT-ruins the grip of the nylon on the fitting
 
From my notes:

Use nylon 11 such as air brake line available at most napa or MSC for dirt cheap$.....25 cents a foot
Hold the cold line in a flareing brake line tube holder.
It should be held 1/8-3/16" longer than the oil line barb.
Pound the barb in with a plastic mallet.

mscdirect.com
74203753
Nylon 11 Tubing - Fractional Sizes Inside Diameter: 0.170 In., 11/64 Outside Diameter: 1/4 Wall Thickness: 0.040 In. Material: Nylon 11 Color: Black. .43/foot

http://www.anythingtruck.com/commercial/airb_hose.html

Nylon 11, 1/4" od, 0.17 id, .04" wall, op temp -60 to 200F MMC 5548K84 11.75/25'

Use a little oil when you whack the fitting in, it goes a bit easier, plus try a few for practice. Or I've got enough to make a set if you can spare a bit of $ for shipping. It's the black stuff like original from McMaster, Nylon 11. Fitting can be had from nearly any Norton dealer. If you don't have a flare tool, drill a hole same size in a block of wood, or find a nut of the same OD and cut it in half, put in vice. That .25 cents per foot is years old.
 
how would you describe the steel fittings dimensions? I would like a "T" , need to know the dimensions of the barbs and where to get the fittings.
 
Save the heartache. Put the plastic crap lines in the bin where they belong and fit a Venhill stainless braided line. Back in the day, I was working on my Norton and I put a spanner through the plastic line. At 5 to 12. On a Saturday. Had a phobia about it ever since.
 
+ 1 I'm with Full Auto after several failures with both my road bike and race bike using the original black nylon tubing and many other brands of push on type tubings.
Regards Mike
 
I took it one step beyond braided lines. Drill the inlet valve rocker shafts and do away with the crossover line altogether. Use the now unused left fitting to hook up an oil pressure gauge.
 
Fullauto said:
Save the heartache. Put the plastic crap lines in the bin where they belong and fit a Venhill stainless braided line. Back in the day, I was working on my Norton and I put a spanner through the plastic line. At 5 to 12. On a Saturday. Had a phobia about it ever since.

You can spend over $100 for a stainless steel one or less than $5 doing it this way. I have been using the air equip nylon tubing from NAPA or any place that sells air brake parts for years. On long trips I have been known to bring some with me along with the flaring tool. Never had to use it and hope I never do.

John in Texas
 
N0rt0nelectr@ said:
You can spend over $100 for a stainless steel one or less than $5 doing it this way. I have been using the air equip nylon tubing from NAPA or any place that sells air brake parts for years.
John in Texas

+1 Nothing wrong with nylon tubing however make sure the routing of the tube runs absolutely free at the top end and preferably use double barb fittings like original (https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-de ... 8-06-5052-) I still have an original black nylon rocker oil feed in use without any leakage after 45 years and many miles.
 
nortonspeed said:
I still have an original black nylon rocker oil feed in use without any leakage after 45 years and many miles.

Well you're overdue for an oily foot then. I went stainless a few years ago but re-did the nylon lines a couple times before that. I carried a spare assembly in my headlight shell also. I have had it go while riding and it is a mess.
 
Years ago, I fitted and oil pressure gauge by substituting a dual banjo for the single and using a chunk of used rocker line to plumb it in. Worked a treat, but after a while, although it didn't leak, I saw potential for that and frankly the oil pressure never varied, other than dropping when warm. When I turned it back into a Roadster from a Fastback, I got the braided ss line and eliminated the gauge.
 
nortonspeed said:
N0rt0nelectr@ said:
You can spend over $100 for a stainless steel one or less than $5 doing it this way. I have been using the air equip nylon tubing from NAPA or any place that sells air brake parts for years.
John in Texas

+1 Nothing wrong with nylon tubing however make sure the routing of the tube runs absolutely free at the top end and preferably use double barb fittings like original (https://andover-norton.co.uk/en/shop-de ... 8-06-5052-) I still have an original black nylon rocker oil feed in use without any leakage after 45 years and many miles.

The brittleness will get you in the end.
 
While the nylon lines are not a permanent solution, I have had many years and miles from the ones I have made. I have a mix on my bikes. The braided stainless lines are pretty much bulletproof, but if you get the "raw" braided ones, get some clear heat shrink tubing and cover them before installing. The raw braid will cut into most anything it comes in contact, wires, paint, aluminum, etc. Also pay close attention to the banjo fittings as some will foul the head and prevent a good seal.
 
Yes they go brittle eventually from the heat. I use $$ braided line now , minding the routings so as not connect with anything that might fray it.. I'd like to try this drill through rocker shaft idea. Machine shop stuff to pierce the hardening I think. 8)
 
After searching high & low for the nylon N11 air brake lines...found it listed on Napa Canada website, $0.59/ft....great...24hrs to get it to store for pickup...ok, place my order. Within 30 min get a call from the local Napa store...yes, we can only get that stuff in 100ft spools and do not sell by ft. So my quest continues. On the way out to PrincessAuto for some other stuff, I see a "NewLine" store off the highway and recall seeing them as carrying it....so I plan to hit them on the way back. Meanwhile, milling around in PrincessAuto (the Canuck answer to HabourFreight in USA)...I see a 100ft spool of 1/4" airbrake line...green...reg. price of $12.99 on sale for $6.99. Has all the DOT air brake ratings marked etc...still don't want 100ft even at that price! Then I discover a loose spool, in black, but I have to pay $0.59 per ft....nearly 10X more than the per 100ft sale.....no matter...a good 10 ft will last me decades I recon!
 
I've got enough Nylon 11 for one engine if anyone wants it.
 
FWIW

Nylon air tubing is rated to only 140 deg F ...... oil temp can approach or exceed 200 F.

If you use nylon, get the high temp grade for hydraulic use ..... rated to 100 deg C.
I would use 5/32" OD ..... adequate and fittings are common.

There are various push-in fittings that work very nicely and reliably.

You might consider thin wall soft aluminum tubing. I have a large coil of 1/8" OD, and will ship you some for postage cost. Push-in 1/8 fittings are available.

Slick
 
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Aren’t braided steel lines simply nylon lines with a braided sleeve? If so it too could become brittle and leak. Not as fast a rate but it would, wouldn’t it?
 
I have some 5/32" nylon tubing in my shop since the 80's. It has not become brittle .... looks and feels like new.

Perhaps, the condition of my tubing is due to intended air use, or quality. I got mine from specialty hydraulic/pneumatic suppliers, not the local discount shop.

I would worry over the temperature rating. Perhaps those who got hot oil on their pant legs used air line stuff, while those who report no problems are using the hydraulic high temp grade. As far as I know, one cannot tell one from the other by sight. It may be the stuff is branded with a rating now-a-days.

Slick
 
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