RGM Double Adjuster

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EstuaryBoy said:
Just playing Devil's advocate and leg pulling. On a previous thread on the price of drilled discs, when I quoted RGMs discs the suggestion from the OP was that at the low price he had to be buying from Norvil
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Ah, referencing a random thread for your humor. Well played.
 
cyclegeezer said:
When I installed mine I asked Matt about the 2nd adjuster. He said he doesn't use them on his own work.
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He told me the same thing and I've not installed a second adjuster on any of my cNw installs.

I won't work on other belt drives if they don't have the second adjuster and won't work on a Norvil belt drive even with the second adjuster. I have nothing against Norvil and they were very helpful when I was trying to fix one, but getting the belt to track properly is hard to nearly impossible.
 
I just feel safer that way, old habits an’ all that. Plus mine is a 920cc etc.
 
marshg246 said:
He told me the same thing and I've not installed a second adjuster on any of my cNw installs.

I won't work on other belt drives if they don't have the second adjuster and won't work on a Norvil belt drive even with the second adjuster. I have nothing against Norvil and they were very helpful when I was trying to fix one, but getting the belt to track properly is hard to nearly impossible.
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That's weird I've never had an issue with my norvil belt drive
I have always had two adjusters I would not consider a belt drive without the second adjuster I just don't see how it could work without one given Norton's tolerances
 
baz said:
That's weird I've never had an issue with my norvil belt drive
I have always had two adjusters I would not consider a belt drive without the second adjuster I just don't see how it could work without one given Norton's tolerances
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The one that broke me was a 650SS. The belt would start running against the inner chaincase within 10 revolutions of the crank. It had one adjuster. For all I know the cradle was bent/made wrong. Trying to precisely twist a gearbox without a second adjuster is quite difficult and took MANY tries to get the new belt to track. If it were my bike or I was getting paid to do it, I would have taken it apart enough to install a second adjuster - probably would have been faster to do that. I was only asked to make the rearsets work and fix a wiring issue. When I started the bike and smelled/heard the belt I investigated and the owner asked me to fix it - should have said no!

I was very concerned about it not having two adjusters before installing the first cNw belt drive and didn't accept the job until Matt convinced me I didn't need one. Basically, the front pully causes the belt to track and the rear is significantly wider then the belt.
 
Gents, why not fit an adjustable belt drive idler and get rid of the tranny adjusters altogether (as per Mk3)? This solution (cf. link) appears to be small enough to fit within the Norton chaincase at the lower run. I guess it has an eccentric bolt adjuster.
mid-usa.com

BELT DRIVE IDLER BEARING KIT FOR BELT DRIVE SYSTEM

weight: 1.65this high quality primary belt drive idler bearing kit is used to adjust the belt tension. small adjustable serrated plate attaches to the large solid mounted stock plate within the cast inner primary. the rollers bearings are permanently sealed for zero maintenance. fits big twin...
mid-usa.com mid-usa.com
Another solution featuring a spring loaded damper should be looked into, which would make adjustments redundant.

- Knut
 
Thanks Nigel,
My reason for asking is that I have over 10,000 miles with the CNW starter and have never had to adjust belt tension and don’t see any wear.Very pleased with the whole system.
Mike
 
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YING said:
Thanks Nigel,
My reason for asking is that I have over 10,000 miles with the CNW starter and have never had to adjust belt tension and don’t see any wear.Very pleased with the whole system.
Mike
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I nipped mine up a very small amount after the initial ‘blue dust’ producing bedding in period, but since then I’ve not touched mine at all either.
I’m more than pleased with the entire system. The way the starter spins that 11:1cr 920cc engine is ridiculous. And the way the belt handles all that, even with track day abuse, it’s just perfect !
 
mdt-son said:
Another solution featuring a spring loaded damper should be looked into, which would make adjustments redundant.
- Knut
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Knut:
OP wants the adjusters not to take up slack, but to try and make the belt run true.
IOW: to compensate for a crooked engine cradle and/or gearbox shell.
Once set, the belt doesn't need adjustment. Ever.
Seems like a lot of parts and clutter for a one time job.
IMO, there are simpler and more elegant ways to secure the gearbox in the correct position.
 
YING said:
Thanks Nigel,
My reason for asking is that I have over 10,000 miles with the CNW starter and have never had to adjust belt tension and don’t see any wear.Very pleased with the whole system.
Mike
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The only adjustment on my cNw primary (6000 miles) I found necessary was after about 150km of "spirited" riding (up to 125mph) with WOT (often).
The primary check after that showed the belt had tightened.
I loosened the belt and ensured the adjuster was firmly holding the gearbox forward and made sure there was "good" tension on the upper & lower bolts. After that every check showed ideal belt tension.
Belt tracking has never been an issue.
BTW - I have the cNw electric boot so double adjuster won't fit - but my experience is that it's not needed.

Edit: Just read @Fast Eddie's post about the "reverse" adjuster on the LHS - clever, but not for me!
 
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I installed a dual adjuster as part of my cNw e-start installation and I regret it. I have it pointing forward, but there's no way in hell to adjust the left side with the e-start primary in place. I refuse to hack the inner primary to facilitate adjustment. Next time the primary comes off (if ever) I'll probably revert to a single adjuster. Other belt drives are obviously more sensitive too gearbox alignment.
 
maylar said:
I installed a dual adjuster as part of my cNw e-start installation and I regret it. I have it pointing forward, but there's no way in hell to adjust the left side with the e-start primary in place. I refuse to hack the inner primary to facilitate adjustment. Next time the primary comes off (if ever) I'll probably revert to a single adjuster. Other belt drives are obviously more sensitive too gearbox alignment.
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It could be the belt drive or it could be the bike. These bikes were built to a certain tolerance and if some of the key pieces in and around the primary are either off or worn then any belt drive may struggle.

The CNW kit is all new and built to a standard not fathomable by the Norton factory so it has a huge advantage right there. Plus it replaces most components except the engine and gearbox.
 
ludwig said:
Knut:
Once set, the belt doesn't need adjustment. Ever.
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I didn't know that. Thanks for the information.

The idea of fitting an idler was a lateral spin-off, sorry.

ludwig said:
IMO, there are simpler and more elegant ways to secure the gearbox in the correct position.
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What do you suggest? To me, the cradle/gearbox fixing looks like a deformable assembly, not capable of assuring mainshaft paralellism to the crankshaft in the long run.

How do you actually check g/b mainshaft and c/shaft axle are paralell without the most sophisticated instruments?

Since introduction of the AMC gearbox, the Matchless factory relied on a single adjuster which works by the greater pull of the final drive.
It seemed to work well for the roadsters, includuding the G15 series, but a primary chain drive is more forgiving than a belt drive, and will endure a small misalignment.

-Knut
 
mdt-son said:
How do you actually check g/b mainshaft and c/shaft axle are paralell without the most sophisticated instruments?
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You can get a rough estimate by checking across the front sprocket and gearbox hub with a straightedge.

RGM Double Adjuster


RGM Double Adjuster
 
When I had a maney outrigger bearing fitted I twice had a problem with the top gearbox bolt coming loose
I was very glad at the time that I had two adjusters I'm pretty sure the gearbox would have crabbed and the belt would have met some disaster
The many outrigger housing cracked along the bottom lug despite it being perfectly flat
I welded it up and tried again but within a few hundred miles it cracked again
Since giving up with it I've had no more problems with the top bolt coming loose
Comoz had the maney outrigger crack on his road bike
He concluded it was good for racing but not for longevity
 
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