Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)

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If you recall I got this piece for Christmas. I remember that I needed to drill a hole for the extra adjuster and figured it would be best to do that before the cradle gets powdercoated.

I threw the cradle up on the drill press and luckily it was just big enough to handle the job. I just passed the drill bit through the one hole and drill through the other side.

I then mocked it up (helps to have an empty gearbox) just to see if everything worked.

Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)

Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)

Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)


From what I can tell I'm missing the spacers that go between the gearbox and the cradle. Are these washers or specific spacers?

This looks like a nice setup and should help when I get a belt drive.
 
Gday Swoosh, good pictures there, Ive got the same to fit to my project some time soon? I see youve mounted both adjusters facing to the rear, I see on other threads where some have faced the left side one to the front to making ajusting access easier? Ive also got the RGM belt drive to go in place and was wondering if you considerd this as a potential problem down the line? Thoughts?
Rgds Foxy
 
Hi8n Foxy,

On both my featherbed and Seeleys, I have both adjusters facing forward.....the advantage of a special!!
 
Anyone know why the mk3 just has a through bolt w/ no way to adjust the gearbox compared to these earlier ones with one and two sided adjusters? Is there a difference in the cradle?
 
Foxy said:
Gday Swoosh, good pictures there, Ive got the same to fit to my project some time soon? I see youve mounted both adjusters facing to the rear, I see on other threads where some have faced the left side one to the front to making ajusting access easier? Ive also got the RGM belt drive to go in place and was wondering if you considerd this as a potential problem down the line? Thoughts?
Rgds Foxy

Oh, crap, you're right. Someone did mention mounting one to the front. Now, which one should go to the front?

I see this as a potential opportunity to eliminate any issues with a belt drive adjustment. :mrgreen:

As I didn't have an adjuster, it was prudent to get the double.
 
pelican said:
Anyone know why the mk3 just has a through bolt w/ no way to adjust the gearbox compared to these earlier ones with one and two sided adjusters? Is there a difference in the cradle?
They have a auto adjuster on the primary on account of the electric start.
 
I probably should have read before I drilled.

Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)


Looks like my cradle will be a *little* lighter with the extra hole.
 
Dave, now that you've mentioned it all the fast guys will be drilling holes in the cradle....probably blanchard grinding 'em too.

Makes fer a better story. Don't sweat it. Your primary is gonna work fine...better than fine! Nice work buddy.

Heck, I'm still running a chain and now I want to go out and install a left side adjuster!
 
RennieK said:
pelican said:
Anyone know why the mk3 just has a through bolt w/ no way to adjust the gearbox compared to these earlier ones with one and two sided adjusters? Is there a difference in the cradle?
They have a auto adjuster on the primary on account of the electric start.

I believe the actual reason the gearbox had to be made non-adjustable on the MkIII model (thus the need for the internal primary tensioner mechanism) was in fact due to the addition of the cross over shaft for the MkIII left foot gearshift. The MkIII starter mechanism drive goes to the engine sprocket, so the starter drive is not actually dependant on the clutch basket having to be fixed in one position.
 
Dave,

I fitted the RGM belt with the double-sided adjuster, and yes I put the Drive side trunnion block forwards.

Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)

However, I got mine all set up without the primary cases fitted, and once I was happy I locked everything up before I put the cases on.
I don't see why I'll ever need to touch the adjusters again, so is it such a big deal if you're getting a belt :?:
 
B+Bogus said:
Dave,

I fitted the RGM belt with the double-sided adjuster, and yes I put the Drive side trunnion block forwards.

Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)

However, I got mine all set up without the primary cases fitted, and once I was happy I locked everything up before I put the cases on.
I don't see why I'll ever need to touch the adjusters again, so is it such a big deal if you're getting a belt :?:

Great picture! Since it's been so long since I've been intimate with a Norton that helps a ton.
 
swooshdave said:
I probably should have read before I drilled.
Looks like my cradle will be a *little* lighter with the extra hole.
Dave, don't worry. Norvil stocks a special wrench just for this. Part number 06-SH*T!
Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)

The truth is you can get at the rear nut with a long ratchet extension and with a Hayward belt, you won't have to adjust it much.
 
Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)


Ok, I'm almost wishing I had mounted it forward, even though I know I won't have to adjust the belt. I don't see any way at all to get to the front nut.
 
Here's how I adjust the trans when installing a belt drive on a MK3.

First I remove the bottom bolt and with the belt installed without the chaincase I push the trans around until the belt has the correct amount of play.
Then I use a carbide burr and enlarge the holes in the cradle untill the bolt will fit through the hole.
Then I use this backcutter on a long shaft and cut a 1 inch countersink into the cradle about 1/16 inch deep.

Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)


Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)


Then I use a hardened 1 inch diameter washer that fits snugly in the countersink and around the bolt.

Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)


Now the rear chain can no longer pull the trans back when you launch a little hard and the belt doesn't end up too tight. Jim
 
B+Bogus said:
Dave,

I fitted the RGM belt with the double-sided adjuster, and yes I put the Drive side trunnion block forwards.

Double-sided Gearbox adjuster (big pics!)

However, I got mine all set up without the primary cases fitted, and once I was happy I locked everything up before I put the cases on.
I don't see why I'll ever need to touch the adjusters again, so is it such a big deal if you're getting a belt :?:

Can I assume that once you set the gearbox with the primary off, that there's not too much trouble getting the belt on an off?
 
Comonz wrote;
Here's how I adjust the trans when installing a belt drive on a MK3.

First I remove the bottom bolt and with the belt installed without the chaincase I push the trans around until the belt has the correct amount of play.
Then I use a carbide burr and enlarge the holes in the cradle untill the bolt will fit through the hole.
Then I use this backcutter on a long shaft and cut a 1 inch countersink into the cradle about 1/16 inch deep.

Looks like a good way to do it to me, but how do you make sure that the belt is running absolutely true and not tracking left or right. The reason I ask is that I had a belt which was tracking to one side and it eventually broke the side plate as well as wearing 3mm off the width of the belt.
 
I have had very few problems with the belt wanting to run to one side or the other as long as it's not too tight. If the belt is on the tight side the alignment gets really critical. I will generally put a straightedge accross the pulleys to make sure there isn't a gross miss-alignment. I have only seen one install where I needed to tweek the trans a bit and give the upper bolt the same treatment as the lower one to keep the trans from setting a bit crooked. It was off a good 1/8 inch and the guy wanted a belt because the chain kept failing. I could see why. Jim


Reggie said:
Comonz wrote;
Here's how I adjust the trans when installing a belt drive on a MK3.

First I remove the bottom bolt and with the belt installed without the chaincase I push the trans around until the belt has the correct amount of play.
Then I use a carbide burr and enlarge the holes in the cradle untill the bolt will fit through the hole.
Then I use this backcutter on a long shaft and cut a 1 inch countersink into the cradle about 1/16 inch deep.

Looks like a good way to do it to me, but how do you make sure that the belt is running absolutely true and not tracking left or right. The reason I ask is that I had a belt which was tracking to one side and it eventually broke the side plate as well as wearing 3mm off the width of the belt.
 
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