Installing a Left Side Adjuster

I'm getting ready to install my new left side adjuster (Thanks bpatton!) and want to make sure I have it assembled correctly and that I understand what I'm doing. I've looked at highdesert's photos, but his adjuster is a little different from mine. Assuming the top of my photo is the front of the bike, is this the correct orientation? Does it matter if the adjuster that is captured to the bolt (the left side in this photo) is on the left or right? I assume I want to keep the large nut on the right side so it's easy to get to.

Currently my belt is tracking straight. If I leave the gearbox lower nuts tight, will the gearbox stay in position while I change out the top adjuster bolt? If not, what is the procedure to correctly adjust the belt tension and tracking? Will spinning the back wheel prove that the belt tracks true?

Bonwit said:

I'm getting ready to install my new left side adjuster (Thanks bpatton!) and want to make sure I have it assembled correctly and that I understand what I'm doing. I've looked at highdesert's photos, but his adjuster is a little different from mine. Assuming the top of my photo is the front of the bike, is this the correct orientation? Does it matter if the adjuster that is captured to the bolt (the left side in this photo) is on the left or right? I assume I want to keep the large nut on the right side so it's easy to get to.

Currently my belt is tracking straight. If I leave the gearbox lower nuts tight, will the gearbox stay in position while I change out the top adjuster bolt? If not, what is the procedure to correctly adjust the belt tension and tracking? Will spinning the back wheel prove that the belt tracks true?

Click to expand...

from your picture top to bottom. large nut, stationary block, small nut , exposed threaded rod,round nut that the top gear box bolt threads into. large nut to left with threaded rod horizontal (facing forward) stationary block, smaller nut, threaded rod and large round nut that top gear box threads into on right. I would install the adjuster than assemble the belt drive minus the inner case and recheck how it tracks, if needed readjust till it tracks OK than reassemble. to check how it tracks, remove spark plugs and spin motor and primary drive with a socket on the crankshaft nut (facing nut turn counterclockwise). I set play in the belt where I can twist belt about 75 - 80 degrees with two fingers. you will find it tightens up a lot from cold to hot so it likes to run loose when cold.

bill said:

from your picture top to bottom. large nut, stationary block, small nut , exposed threaded rod,round nut that the top gear box bolt threads into. large nut to left with threaded rod horizontal (facing forward) stationary block, smaller nut, threaded rod and large round nut that top gear box threads into on right. I would install the adjuster than assemble the belt drive minus the inner case and recheck how it tracks, if needed readjust till it tracks OK than reassemble. to check how it tracks, remove spark plugs and spin motor and primary drive with a socket on the crankshaft nut (facing nut turn counterclockwise). I set play in the belt where I can twist belt about 75 - 80 degrees with two fingers. you will find it tightens up a lot from cold to hot so it likes to run loose when cold.

Click to expand...

Bill, I guess I'm having trouble following you. Somewhere I read that the left side adjuster (the threaded rod attached to the block) should be run forward, the opposite from the right side. That is the way I have it laid out in the photo. Are you saying this is incorrect and that they should both run aft?

This gearbox bolt is one piece. It's solid on the left and threaded on the right (as seen in the photo)

You have it laid out correctly.

If the left side adjuster is pointing to the back of the bike, you'll never be able to get at it when the primary is installed.

Hi John,

You're welcome. I've always thought that RGM had it in mind that you would install the setup as you have it in your photo. The big nut on the right side with the left side adjuster facing forward, for practical reasons. You could email them to be sure. While you're at it, you could as them why they machined the recesses on the stud.
If you are happy with the position of the gearbox, you can probably leave the lower mount tight and replace the upper and retain the setting. But you have to keep in mind that when you set the adjusters that they have to bee snugged up against the gearbox from the rear pushing forward. The prevailing force on the gearbox is such that it gets pulled back by the drive chain.
Bob

Don't you need another "stationary block" on the right? And I assume you have to drill a hole in the cradle on the left side to install the new, left-side "stationary block"?

Keep thinkin' about a belt drive, but as you can see, my knowledge of the how-to's is weak....thanks

The left adjuster (PRIMARY SIDE) needs to face forward.
JUG

BrianK said:

Don't you need another "stationary block" on the right? And I assume you have to drill a hole in the cradle on the left side to install the new, left-side "stationary block"?

Keep thinkin' about a belt drive, but as you can see, my knowledge of the how-to's is weak....thanks

Click to expand...

Yes, the kit uses the existing right side block, and you do need to drill a hole on the left side, which is why I'm doing the install while I've got the inside primary removed.

Thanks Bonwit.

bpatton said:

Hi John,

You're welcome. I've always thought that RGM had it in mind that you would install the setup as you have it in your photo. The big nut on the right side with the left side adjuster facing forward, for practical reasons. You could email them to be sure. While you're at it, you could as them why they machined the recesses on the stud.
If you are happy with the position of the gearbox, you can probably leave the lower mount tight and replace the upper and retain the setting. But you have to keep in mind that when you set the adjusters that they have to bee snugged up against the gearbox from the rear pushing forward. The prevailing force on the gearbox is such that it gets pulled back by the drive chain.
Bob

Click to expand...

good idea. I too was wondering what those notches were for.