replacing rear isolastic with engine in frame( sort of)

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Mar 2, 2008
its been high time to replace the rear isolastic bits on my 850mk2a and I have been wondering if, after removal of the front mount,headsteady, coils, battery and support plate, z plates, exhaust system, the engine/ gearbox/primary can be moved forward enough to allow clearance for the isolastic rubbers to exit from the right side of the bike and new ones installed? any tale from the trenches? cheers
replacing rear isolastic with enigne in frame( sort of)

Thanks for the responses!, just what I needed. Will post any gathered wisdom( if I actually manage to gather any) after the teardown and reassembly... got a new Andover mk3 style kit, and a hydraulic lift table...hopefully Mr Norton will be smiling ( and not laughing ) at me from the Heavens...thanks again Cheers
Wish I had this info about 2 weeks ago. I was going to do a light resto on my newest MK3--it ran when I bought it, but needed some work to make it safe i.e. forks were a bit bent, so those were rebuilt. Since the forks were off, I thought Id powder coat the clamps. Off came the neck. The hydrolics worked, but I wanted to re-do all to be safe. Off came those bits. While it was down, I thought Id have my cases polished, you get the hint. We've all been here. Isolastics seemed a bit too something, so those had to go. I struggled with that part for a while, since my wheels were off, and bike came with no center stand. I had quite a fight on my hands trying to get the rears reinstalled with my bike on a lift and strapped down. I didnt want to take the engine out, because I knew what that would ultimately lead to, but wound up doing it anyway. Long story short, currently all my chrome is out being re-done. Wheels have been broken down and hubs are polished. New Buchanans are in the mail. Frame is off to powdercoat as are all the rest of the black bits. Tank, covers and new CNW chainguard are all being painted. All because of the rear isolastics!!
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