Rear wheel lockring
- Thread starter GraemeH
- Start date
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 21,114
No, the lockring should be tight against the bearing.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 21,114
Why?
Hortons Norton
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Oct 12, 2007
- Messages
- 2,109
It looks fine.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 21,114
Good day, all! I am replacing the wheel bearings in my '74 Commando and have a quick question. When I put the lockring on the rear wheel and tighten it down as tight as I can get it, it doesn't sit "flush". Does this pic look correct, or should the lockring tighten down a bit more? I fear I may not have the bearing seated all the way, but thought I'd ask the experts first!
Ah, I misread your reply and understood flush against the flange. Stupid. Especially as I didn't see this other reply until now and spent this morning taking out and re-inserting the bearing.
But now on to part 2: should the shoulder of the dummy axle not protrude through the brake hub? On mine the wide, thin shoulder of the dummy axle is blocked by the raised ridge in the drum.
But now on to part 2: should the shoulder of the dummy axle not protrude through the brake hub? On mine the wide, thin shoulder of the dummy axle is blocked by the raised ridge in the drum.
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 21,114
johnm
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2008
- Messages
- 2,001
It's dangerous to use those stub axles. The axle snaps at the thread root of the longer axle.
Seen at least 5 of them break.
Much better to use a one piece axle.
And while your there check the brake lining is secure and not going to peel off. I always put a few rivets in mine. Plus check the nipples on the rear brake cable. They can pull out. Check you can see wires that have been bent so there is a birds nest in the nipple. Both those things have happened to me and friends.
Seen at least 5 of them break.
Much better to use a one piece axle.
And while your there check the brake lining is secure and not going to peel off. I always put a few rivets in mine. Plus check the nipples on the rear brake cable. They can pull out. Check you can see wires that have been bent so there is a birds nest in the nipple. Both those things have happened to me and friends.
ashman
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Jul 11, 2010
- Messages
- 6,460
I must be lucky after 49+ years of ownership of my Norton I am still running my original stud axle, have replaced the rear brake cable once but that was a frayed cable more than anything but had to install a strong spring to make the pedal come back better to its mount, I am not a heavy user of my rear brakes just more use it to slow the back wheel down when using the front brakes, but then I am not a heavy user of brakes while out riding, I can slow my Norton and my other bikes down without using my brakes while up in the twisties, but its good I have a well set up front brake system on my Norton when I do need it, as the original front brakes weren't the best when they got old and they usually fail when you do need to use them in an emergency as mind did without any warning before hand, lucky it was a slow speed downing.
johnm
VIP MEMBER
- Joined
- Feb 26, 2008
- Messages
- 2,001
The rear cable pulled through when I used the brake to align the shoes and rear wheel when tightening the axle. It's a good safety feature to use the spring that keep the brake lever from digging in too.
The linings peeling off was as I gently slowed down for a motorway off ramp. Happens on bikes which live in dampish conditions. Like NZ winters.
But the axles are very random. Perhaps overtightend? But definitely happens. Norton weren't the best with stress raisers. Look at the crankshaft drive side machining. So many broken cranks. I once discussed it with Andover technical and they said they didn't see it much over there. But they did say the factory production racers had the radius machined in the section change to prevent broken cranks. Nes at Classic cycles had a pile of busted cranks in the corner of his workshop. Mine was cracked when tested.
Maybe we give our bikes a harder time.
I almost ordered one, but shipping from the Philippines and import duty more than doubled the price.
Still having problems with my hub parts: the widest shoulder on the dummy axle (1.5" diameter) is at least 1mm wider than the internal drum lip so there is no way it fits through like the picture above, even if I heat the drum. Should I simply get it machined down? Or could I have the wrong part?
The shoulder that would fit through is 1 1/4" and the hole in the drum is 1 5/16" so it would have a fair bit of play - does that sound correct?
The shoulder that would fit through is 1 1/4" and the hole in the drum is 1 5/16" so it would have a fair bit of play - does that sound correct?
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2007
- Messages
- 1,495
So I have a pile of parts and somehow they are suppose to make a rear wheel go 'round.
Ok, anyone have an idea how these are suppose to go together and what am I missing? A pic of them laid out in the right order would be great.
Axle didn't seem to want to screw into the dummy axle. Is it suppose to?
Ok, anyone have an idea how these are suppose to go together and what am I missing? A pic of them laid out in the right order would be great.
Axle didn't seem to want to screw into the dummy axle. Is it suppose to?
Some info here ??
Excellent - looks like I need the 1.375" dummy axle with 18 TPI. My dummy and main axle thread together fine but the wide flange is too wide at 1.5" so I assume that mine is pre-commando 20 TPI (not measured yet) given the info in that thread.
Will contact my supplier with that info. But am away on holiday for a week or so.
Thanks
Will contact my supplier with that info. But am away on holiday for a week or so.
Thanks
Not all so clear after all - the threads on my axle/stub axle are 18 TPI yet the stub axle flange is definitely 1.5" and too big for the brake hub.
While waiting to solve this and get the correct parts, can someone explain why Norton changed the rear axle from 20 to 18 TPI and altered the stub axle flange and brake drum from 1.5 to 1.1375 ?
While waiting to solve this and get the correct parts, can someone explain why Norton changed the rear axle from 20 to 18 TPI and altered the stub axle flange and brake drum from 1.5 to 1.1375 ?
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 21,114
Because the thread was changed to Unified on the Commando.
There are two Commando dummy axles (three if you count the 850 Mk3 but it's a different type).
Bolt up hub dummy axle.
Andover Norton - BRAKE DRUM DUMMY AXLE (18tpi UNF) - 06.2067
BRAKE DRUM DUMMY AXLE (18tpi UNF)
andover-norton.co.uk
- Joined
- Nov 20, 2004
- Messages
- 21,114
I don't know.
