Priming lubrication

Hi Folks,

I'm about to start my freshly and fully rebuilt engine (including new Jim Schmidt camshaft and tappets) and I wonder how to prime the lubrication circuit.
I've heard of different methods: pouring some oil through the cylinder head and rocker spindles, priming the oil pump, kicking the engine (spark plug off) until the oil returns to the oil tank ...

But I've read too that a new camshaft doesn't like that sort of treatment, and I think that unfortunately no cam lube has been used when it's been installed.
Some say that it should be run-in by running the engine at at least 2500 rpm.
I wonder whether oiling the camshaft by gravity via the tappets or directly through the tachometer hole is OK.

Thks for your thoughts.

Laurent

Oiling the camshaft by the tachometer hole will not work : no oil will go on the cams.
Pouring oil through the tappets is what works best for camshaft, you also have to prime the pump .
Having some oil in the crankcase will help to splash oil on the camshaft: wet sumping is not always bad ! oil poured through the head will remain in the crankcase.

JRD said:

Oiling the camshaft by the tachometer hole will not work : no oil will go on the cams.
Pouring oil through the tappets is what works best for camshaft, you also have to prime the pump .
Having some oil in the crankcase will help to splash oil on the camshaft: wet sumping is not always bad ! oil poured through the head will remain in the crankcase.

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Agreed. If no wet sumping occurs, 5 to 7 oz. of oil will be in the sump through normal drip down. When people drain the sump because of wet sumping and do not replenish with this 5 to 7 oz. of oil, they are really rolling the dice.

Other than pouring out down through the rocker covers, I also loosen the left banjo on the head and kick with the plugs out till I see oil.

It is/was bad not to use assembly lube, but you will be fine if you take precautions.

I have never had a new cam but from what I've read it is really important to use the assembly lube on the cam. (If it was me I'd pull the cylinder and do it.) Also I would call Jim Schmidt directly and ask him what he recommends in this situation rather than polling this forum.

Worst thing reported to prime new engine is turning and turning engine till over flow oil from crank and head drips out the slump plug. Fill tank, pump as much in crank as practical, pour some in rocker boxes then with proper pre-lube already on surfaces just start the thing and go straight over 2000 rpm and grit teeth for 40 sec of so to see oil return in tank then keep it over 2000 till ya get a bit antsy on the heat factor, shut off cool down retorque and repeat long enough the rings are are smokeless then change oil and go hot rodding around w/o getting tickets or crashing, cool down retorque and off ya go staying on the lively side for a tank of gas or so. Babying the engine is for sissy's and not good practice on initial run in. If its going to blow up then best right at home eh.

"and I think that unfortunately no cam lube has been used when it's been installed."

If it is a NEW Cam and lifters, take it apart to the point necessary to coat the cam/lifters with assy lube. Start the engine and run at 2500 RPM immediately for 25-30 minutes. Doing anything else will result in a cam that will be worn out in as little as a few hundred miles.

Hi
Steve Maney recommends a quarter of a pint of oil in each exhaust rocker just before starting, this worked fine for me and when subsequently stripped all is well with no sign of any picking up on the cam and followers.
Keep the revs over 2000 until the oil starts to return to the tank and do not let it idle for this first start, get it up to working temperature and then let it cool overnight and re torque the head. Then you can start it and check the timing and set the carbs.
I really would not worry about not having cam lube, and I personally would certainly not strip it to put some on, but hey everyone to their own!
JohnT

Well, rather than listening to conflicting opinions here, look at the instal instructions for whatever the brand of cam that was installed and ensure/verify that those installation instructions were followed and be sure to follow the starting/break-in procedures. If you don't know what cam is in there, check any cam-maker site for recommendations.

Hi Ludwig

That is very nice & looks simple to do.
Are you going to do a web page with all your little designs & larger changes?
I have a list of things I want to do on my road ride including the alloy s/arm motard wheels & discs.
Still working out if its worth going oil in frame or not.
Keep writing in.
all the best Chris

Yeah man I have pictured building back the cam bath tub so very pleased to see deepper into Lugwid's retro fitting. I don't want to weld on Peels coated Maney cases so am thinking of other ways to mechanically fasten a dam and seal it, though her hi lift cam may not allow clearance even with a thin dam that risks breaking up.

Btw you can break up the break in 'hi rpm' cam bedding into a few minutes a go to let rings/bores cool down to avoid galling poor sealing. I do not bother with a fan anymore, just shut down before over heating then nip up stuff and go some more till dialed in then change oil and hit the road w/o babying but not over doing it.

I did Trixie initial run in this way [dry ring install too], ignored my emotions it was a tender human infant and ran up over 3000 and blipping over that to see rings go smokeless in about as much time as took full oil flow to return to tank 40 sec or so then just muffler dust blown out and amazing not any detectable swarf on the sump magnet, every time I check so far. I've come to conclusion its better to risk a blow crank seal on wet sump starts than buggering cam surface on drained dry sump. Some day may replace the 6 yr old filter but its not got much to filter and the basic sludge trap and bottom settling works better than any filter for engine friction protection once spun fast for oil surfing

ludwig said:

You can do your camshaft a big favour by making the lobes turn in an oil bath :

It will also eliminate the need to prime after a prolonged period of standstill .

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This is truly a sensible modification! Ludwig can you give us detailed information about your design? (how is it secured?)