Primary lube

Joined
Jul 18, 2005
Messages
44
I'm running #10 non-detergent motor oil in my primary, is this OK. Fortunately I checked the fluid levels on my "totally restored" bike and found the primary and transmission competely dry. So much for trusting "dealer professionals". I didn't have ATF handy but did have some of the light weight motor oil which should be OK, yes??

I finally found some 140 gear oil for the swing arm (again it was dry) but can't seem to get much in. Is it neccessary to remove the fitting in the center of the spindle (spindle locating nut?) to competely lube the swingarm? I tried removing it but wasn't able to because of its location. I may need a special wrench.

So much for paying top dollar for a "totally restored" bike from a British Bike dealer. I've had a myriad of problems in the short time I've owned the bike including having to get towed home twice. When I was trying to negotiate a price their response always was "you know what your getting, it's been totally restored by professional mechanics". I should have listened to the advice I received on this and other forums.

I don't mind the wrenching, I've restored some older Japanese bikes I just don't seem to make any headway with the Norton.

Discouraged.
 
Joined
May 7, 2005
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10Wt should be ok for a while but change it for ATF on the next change. On the swing arm with the 140, which is like treacle, I seem to get an airlock, to get round this I put the bike on the sidestand and take out the nipple completely, this hole is then uppermost. With an oilcan I then slowly pump it in but only small amounts at a time, I leave it to settle and then pump again, eventually the level won't go down and it should be full.

And yes you pay top dollar at a dealer to pay his salary and pay his overheads not for his care and attention to the bike, but thats not the bike fault. It does get better.
 
Joined
Jul 18, 2005
Messages
44
Thanks Kommando

Yes, I tried pumping in 140 with a grease gun after my post and as you say, it gets air lock. I probably over did it as it's seeping out and I have a puddle of it now under the bike but that'll clean up.

Sorry fo the whining, I don't mind paying the dealer for their work and I understand they have to have profits.

But..in one of my other posts I mentioned the bad brakes. I had mentioned this to the dealer and they pretty much said "get used to it". Well I just finished removing the front wheel, looked at the brakes and low-and-behold one cam was installed backwards so instead of double leading shoe it was single leading shoe. The wheel was very hard to turn by hand but I assumed it was a tight new bearing, after fixing the brakes the wheel actually turns by hand. With only one shoe working when the brakes were applied it wanted to shift the wheel and the wheel was rubbing on the hub I guess it is. I'm going to take it for a ride but it can't be any worse than it was. The cam problem was also preventing the shoes to return to their regular position.

Thanks again for your input.
 
Joined
Jul 16, 2004
Messages
23
Hi feliz!
Well, I can definately see your point… I am the same opinion. I do not mind paying good money, but I EXPECT adequate value/labour in return!!!!
Just seems like these days that you have to be extra-careful not to get ripped off by some bastard, may it be private or dealer.
I was having some serious problems with the dealer where I bought my S type… you really start to wonder how much he is taking the piss…
I thought that first of all it takes some first-class-enthusiasm and willingness/abillity to become attracted to oldtimers/vintage/classic bikes.
It is such a different ballgame… nobody denies to pay good money for good labour, but things do go weird sometimes.
I thought „Well, I’d rather buy a completely rebuilt Norton from a dealer for loads of money ton save me from too much headache” but I was wrong. My next Norton, supposingly a P11 model or a Fastback, will not be bought from a dealer this time. I would rather buy a basket case and rebuild it myself. So I WILL know what kind of work has gone into it!
The price for it will be out of this world anyway…
It just starts to make sense that CNW are charging $20,500,00 for a complete rebuild. Just look at their astounding craftmenship!

You will always end up paying loads of money for a classic British bike and never get it back when you sell it.

Saying that, a well-sorted Norton you keep forever anyway!
 
Joined
May 7, 2005
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Felix, sounds like the job you did on the brake will improve things but the is a stiffening kit you can buy for the TLS which improves it further if your wallet can stand it.
 
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