Pictures of head install procedure (2015)

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I find several sequences - here is another


TORQUE SETTINGS
Cylinder head nuts and bolts (3/8 in.) :360 in./lb. 30 ft./lb. (4.15 Kg/m)
Cylinder head bolts (5/16 in.): 240 in./lb. 20 ft./lb. (2.75 Kg/m)
Cylinder base nuts (3/8 in.): 300 in./lb. 25 ft./lb. (3.45 Kg/m)
Cylinder base nuts (5/16 in.): 240 in./lb. 20 ft./lb. (2.75 Kg/m)
Connecting rod nuts: 300 in./lb. 25 ft./lb. (3.45 Kg/m)
Rocker spindie cover plate bolt: 100 in./lb. 8 ft./lb. (1.11 Kg/m)
Crankshaft nuts: 420 in./lb. 35 ft./lb. (4.84 Kg/m)
Cam chain tensioner nuts: 180 in./lb. 1 5 ft./lb. (2 07 Kg/m)
Oil pump stud nuts: 180 in./lb. 15 ft./lb. (2.07 Kg/m)
Rocker feed banjo bolts: 180 in./lb. 15 ft./lb. (2.07 Kg/m)
 

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  • Pictures of head install procedure (2015)
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So a proper ring spanner torque wrench extension tool for Norton head torqueing is not available as standard fair?
Too expensive to produce?
no BSF or Whitworth available?
can a MM metric substitute?
 

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  • Pictures of head install procedure (2015)
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The upward facing nuts on a Norton are all 1/4WW
You can grind the ring end of a 1/4 ring/open spanner to fit these three nuts, use the open end with a 1/2 torque device as the open end 1/4 WW fits 1/2 SAE AF very well, keep at a right angle and achieve a decent torque value.
from the internet a BMW site -
http://home.jtan.com/~joe/KIAT/kiat_3.htm
Torque extensions are sometimes required to tighten fasteners in locations where the torque wrench will not fit such as the drive shaft flange on older airheads. Figure 9c shows the extension I made for this purpose. To work correctly, one must understand how the position of the extension affects the torque as shown in Figure 10c. There is a formula for relating actual bolt torque to the wrench torque based on the length of the wrench and extension and the angle between the two. It is best to keep the two at right angles so the torque will be the same.
Pictures of head install procedure (2015)

Pictures of head install procedure (2015)
 
Need help with the sums?
This app can be mighty helpful...
Ta.
 
p400 said:
I find several sequences - here is another
Click to expand...
This is the sequence I have always used.
I stripped out Number 1 and tapped it to 7/16-14 and torque the #1 to 35 ftlb.
 
In all the years of rebuilding Norton motors I have never used a torque wench on the upside down nuts, I just use a ring spanner and because they aren't torqued much (20lbs I think) I just go click when I think they are right, after 40 years of working on Nortons I have never had a head gasket leak, well maybe once when my motor first needed a rebuild after my young days of doing burnouts and flogging my motor , but haven't had a leak since, if my head gasket gets a light seep I just torque the head down but I only usualy retorue the head the second time after putting 500 to 700 miles after the rebuild.
I did get a blown head gasket once but that was not using a copper head gasket, so now only use copper head gaskets on my rebuilds.

Ashley
 
pete.v said:
p400 said:
I find several sequences - here is another
Click to expand...
This is the sequence I have always used.
I stripped out Number 1 and tapped it to 7/16-14 and torque the #1 to 35 ftlb.
Click to expand...
+1 on the first part.
I stripped one also on my 73 850 Head...Doh!...its one of those three that come down that will get yeah. :shock:
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
 
hobot said:
Who ever came up with the head tighening sequence must of laughed his ass off or was paid off by gasket vendor to publish this in correct sequence. Anyone that has ever had to lay out and fasten down lengths semi rigid materials know to always start in the center and move outward or risk a buckle up between fastener to relieve the stress. hobot starts at center bolt once assured push rods seated and snug it down to atleast 1/3rd final torque then move tothe easy fasterners by plugs then crisscross to otheres in about 3 cycles before final by guess by golly by experience inital final torque till next heat cycle crank on em all starting in center again ...
Click to expand...

From the second sentence, Hobot gives good advice when one does not have the manufacturers tightening sequence. As for the first sentence, I assume Hobot is referring to the sequence posted by P400 (the one in the pic that looks like a Norton head). That picture is published in My Norton Owners Manual .... the book that came with my Atlas. Presumably, that is the sequence they use to build them at the Norton Works. Unless one has very strong opinions to be contrary, It is prudent to defer to the manufacturer's info.

Slick
 
Motion Pro has a device that lets you clamp a ring spanner and attach it to your torque wrench. It comes in handy for the base nuts too.
 
Yep Commando manual has correct sequence and obvious enough I doubt anyone did it otherwise, expect at Norton where anything goes. I and ashley know your are not really a full Nortoneer till no though of torque wrench crosses you mind only measuring stretch where it matters most so the rest by pure mechanic proven confidence, just Norton factory practice. Best wishes on puzzling push rods while supporting head and not messing the gasket sealant. Keep in mind how thoughtless it is once rocker ends relieved.
 
Thought I would add my DIY torque extension. I made two of these [for small & large nuts]. I simply cut a socket in half. Drilled two holes into a piece of 1/4" cold rolled steel plate and welded the halves of the socket onto the plate. I then ground the edges down and ground the welds as needed to fit.

Pictures of head install procedure (2015)

Pictures of head install procedure (2015)


I have a photo showing the "socket" side, but left it at the shop. I'll attach it tomorrow. I made these 36 or 37 years ago.

Here is the 3rd photo

Pictures of head install procedure (2015)


Charlie
 
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p400 said:
The reason you need to hold the head up with spacers is due to the cam/pushrod/rocker assembly being in an "open position" on one side , not allowing adequate room to align pushrods...... while both valves are closed on the other side allowing adequate room to fiddle/align?

You cannot back the 4 rocker arm adjustments off to allow the head the "seat" properly with pistons at TDC ?
Or maybe the head seats but you cannot get the push rods under the adjuster?

Can you torque the Norton head without compressing valves on one side at the same time ?
Click to expand...

If you don't remove the rocker as suggested by Jim, you will be opening one of the valves against spring pressure when you bolt the head down. Make sure your pushrods are seated at the top and bottom when you do this. They seem to go in place at the bottom much easier than the top.
 
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CanukNortonNut said:
There is no real way to get a Torque wrench with a socket into these locations. I use a ring spanner and do as Mick Hemmings stated:
"Tighten sensibly". You could try and fashion up a modified ring spanner by cutting the other end off and weld a socket for the torque wrench to fit but you need to get the calculations for the change in length for the modified tool to the torque value that you desire to apply to those nuts. Goggle Torque wrench extensions.
Cheers,
Thomas
CNN
Click to expand...
I've always used a ring spanner and a small ball peen hammer to tighten the 3 inverse nuts. You can feel them come to torque as the hammer bounces.

When Ron Wood retired the Norton to campaign a Harley, he said the biggest difference was he had to get bigger hammers and he never owned an inch-and-a-quarter socket in his life.
 
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