New Sparker In Town

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Dec 5, 2003
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Here goes!

There's a new ignition system available for Nortons. Check it out at www.pazon.com Looks similar to the Boyer set up but I didn't read the technical and at 180 GBP seems pricey since I only paid 45 GBP for my analog Boyer.

BTW this product is not approved by Rasputins Revenge MC :lol: .

Scooter
 
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Oct 9, 2004
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So they *finally* got their new web page up. 'Bout time. The old one was a dog.

The Pazon is a high-end, programable CDI ignition. The factory can give you any ignition curve you want. Used on a lot of trophy takers.

Yeah, its $400 - but that's in the ballpark for many ignitions of similar quality and performance.
 
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They now do analogue ignition at 65 gBP, looks very like the mk3 boyer but gas a single magnet back plate for the singles for 720 degree sparking for good coil recovery.
 
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Dec 2, 2004
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Jason, actually that is not a bad idea. Viewed a Bevel Drive Ducati, a Darmah no less, with a belt drive 907 fi setup. Might be rather convenient on a Commando.
 
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Might as well feed the fire........ :p

Hog out an old flatslide with a push-pull throttle, pick up a throttle position sensor and vacuum sensor, tap a couple 'o 25lb/hr injectors into a single carb manifold, high-pressure fuel pump, tap an O2 sensor into the exhaust, prolly need a crank trigger....

Might even be able to use the ECM off a SV650S and just reprogram it... :roll:

I can hear the grumbling from here.. :twisted: :twisted: :twisted:

(BTW, I'm running 932's - I'm just having fun in the wee hours before bed.)
 
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Dec 24, 2003
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I can't resist "feeding the fire" either :twisted:

Isn't it wicked that there are so many better replacement ignition sysytems than that old points setup...........................................

Long live the norton marque 8)
 
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Always nice to have options! :D

A Norton with a USB port? :shock:
But wouldn't it be nice to fine-tune the timing curve and get it just right! Off-idle ping be gone! :p

Debby
 
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:D Actually there is a new sparker in town. Sparkx the people who make the stators and regulator/rectifiers have a new electronic ignition for Nortons,Truimphs and BSA. Supposed to be similar to the Lucas Rita in operation.
 
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By pure coincidence, and before i read this thread, i ordered a new pazon analogue ignition kit for my mk3, as i wanted to bin that useless boyer analogue unit that had just destroyed my sprag clutch.Iwill let you know how it performs when i get the bike back together
 
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mikeymike552001 said:
By pure coincidence, and before i read this thread, i ordered a new pazon analogue ignition kit for my mk3, as i wanted to bin that useless boyer analogue unit that had just destroyed my sprag clutch.Iwill let you know how it performs when i get the bike back together

Just a short question for now. I'm doing a restoration on a 73 Norton commando and it has Boyer Mk3 from the previous owner. I wired it back up and I think it doesn't work worth a dam. I can't even get the engine to run right to time or adjust the carbs. Weak spark and sometimes no spark. If the battery is down the least amount, no spark. And I have 2 new german 6 volt coils which should spark like crazy. Any ideas besides junk it? What were your problems? Wish I had the old point system. Thanks
 
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ChuckB
Before you go binning the Boyer do a THOROUGH check of the ignition system,i.e. all connections clean and tight, battery in good shape --electrically not geometrically!, anything less than 9volts and the Boyer black box will shut down, charging system working PROPERLY, all ground wires hooked up, remember that the motor is isolated by virtue of the rubber mounts.Once you have established that all is well with the ign. circuit, re-check the static timing at 30 deg. BEFORE TDC. Remove the plugs, turn on the ignition, press the kill button, you should get a good spark at EACH plug, if no spark, replace plug(s) with new, check plug wires and connections to coils. I have run Boyer ign. on Norton, Triumph and BSA bikes with no problems, except the problems that I caused by careless fitting or inattention to details, i.e. do it right and the system will work. Good luck, ride safely. James
PS get a copy of the NOA Tech. Digest, it covers all the upgrades and troubleshooting aspects of NORTON ownership.
 
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Apr 21, 2004
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James,
I,ll do as you suggest but this is a ground up restoration. Every last nut and bolt was gone over. Wireing harness, battery, coils and high tension leads, are all new. With the ignition on, there does not appear to be any voltage to the coils unless I turn the engine over. Also I should get the same effect by turning the ignition off as I would by pushing the kill button, a good spark? I don't. I'll check everything over tomorrow, again. And to the other fella, yes points are sublime. Wish I had em. I'll be back. Thanks guys.
 
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Apr 21, 2004
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One more thing. How do you do static timeing with electronic ignition if you can't keep the engine running? Also this may be a dumb question but I am assuming that 30 degrees BTDC is at full advance around 4000 RPM? That's a weird way of doing things. Thanks again
 
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Dec 24, 2003
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For everyones diary, I just did a 5000 klm trip on my commando powered by Boyer & it didn't miss a beat.

About a week after being back home, I had an ignition problem which was very frustrating.

It ended up being one of the terminals on my right coil. It was broken "internally" & only making intermittent contact.

I doubt whther this is your problem, but it is still worth mentioning on this forum for any of you that have not encountered this particlular problem.

Everything seemed ok as far as circuit etc etc & it wasn't until I narrowed it down to the coil that I discovered it. When I attempted to swap the coil with a new one, the whole "coil stud" turned as I have ring connectors instead of spade connectors so they can't "fall off".

It was a new problem that I had not encountered before this, so just thought that it may be something to file away in a memory module for all.
 
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ChuckB,
Pressing the kill button collapses the field in the coils, turning off the ignition at the key just shuts down the power supply.

STATIC timing is just that, the engine is NOT running.
If you have the Boyer unit in place on the cam shaft set the engine to the 31deg. mark on the alternator, set the stator plate so that the fixing studs are in the center of the slots, rotate the Boyer rotor so that a magnet on the rotor covers half of the hole in the stator plate -- use the hole marked for counterclockwise rotation of the camshaft, tighten the rotor fixing bolt, tighten -- carefully -- the stator studs,assuming that the wires are all connected correctly you should be able to fire up the engine, setting the timing this way allows the engine to run well enough to fine tune with a strobe light, warm up the motor thoroughly, run up to 3000rpm,shine the strobe light onto the timing marks on the alternator, blip the throttle to 5000 -- yes, FIVE THOUSAND rpm, the 31 deg. marks should line up, if not, they should be close, adjust the stator plate -- advance or retard to get to a point where the marks line up at 5000rpm, you need not hold the throttle at 5000 rpm, just blip it briefly, obviously you will need an assistant, best to have the bike OFF the center stand and sitting on it's tires, much less vibration and the bike will not take off across the garage floor!.Long explanation, hope it helps. By the way, all new does not necessarily mean all good, I have had "new" plugs and coils that have been defective, hate to be a downer but it is a fact. Good luck, ride safely. James.
 

Ron L

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james said:
ChuckB,
Pressing the kill button collapses the field in the coils, turning off the ignition at the key just shuts down the power supply.

James,
Check your wiring diagram. Pressing the kill button opens the circuit to the Boyer black box just the same as turning off the key. However, in both cases the field in the coils collapses resulting in a spark.
 
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Apr 21, 2004
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nortonfan said:
I can't resist "feeding the fire" either :twisted:

Isn't it wicked that there are so many better replacement ignition sysytems than that old points setup...........................................

Long live the norton marque 8)

Not really. I rode British bikes for many years and as long as they were properly maintained, the point system never gave me any problem and was pretty much trouble free.
 
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Ron L said:
james said:
ChuckB,
Pressing the kill button collapses the field in the coils, turning off the ignition at the key just shuts down the power supply.

James,
Check your wiring diagram. Pressing the kill button opens the circuit to the Boyer black box just the same as turning off the key. However, in both cases the field in the coils collapses resulting in a spark.

Correct Ron L.
But there is no voltage at the coil neg. terminal unless the voltage is rapidly turned on and off. If I just push the kill button once or turn the key off I get nothing. If I use a jumper wire from battery to the White on the box and touch them off & on rapidly, I get a spark and the voltage at the primary is there momentarily but is normaly off. But sometimes both coils and sometimes one spark, and both coils are new and check out properly. I gotta check all this stuff out. I'll never get it to 5K RPM to time it the way it is now. Also the wireing instructions state that the 6 volt coils may short out due to the excess voltage of the 12 volt system. I doubt it. I was an electronic tech for a number of years and from what I see, the coil primarys are wired in series. In other words Ignition hot or from the kill switch, goes to Neg. on one coil, and the pos. of that coil goes to the neg. on the other coil, and the pos of that one goes to ground. Thats why the spark on the coil closest to the ign. hot wire has a hotter spark and the other coil down hill has a weaker spark because of more resistance. Dumb. If I wired 2-12 volt light bulbs this way, they would only be half as brite as they should. It seems to me these coils should be wired in parallel to receive the full 12 volts. Both coil pos. go to ground, and both coil negs. go to ign hot, or kill switch. I wonder if they sent me 2-12 volt coils rather than the 6 volt I ordered. The box said 6 volt and they sold both kinds. This could explain my lousy spark problem. Thanks for the help.
 
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